The next two photos show the lever that kicks the connector out when you rotate the igniter to remove it. The tab is barely visible in the first photo below, in the socket. When the bulb is inserted into the slots on the igniter and rotated into position, the tab retracts so that the male plug can be inserted (second photo).

Unless the bulb is properly positioned in its receptacle, and the retaining ring is seated properly, and the igniter is properly seated in the retaining ring and the bulb's tabs properly engaged, and everything is properly lined up, the electrical connector cannot be plugged in and seated - and the bulb won't work.

Conceptually it is simple enough. In practice, it is nearly impossible without removing the whole headlight unit. Actually, I got everything back together at least 10 times, but simply could not reach the electrical connection to plug it in. I kept taking it apart to see how to get at it better - including trying to plug the extremely short harness in. Couldn't do it, of course. When I finally did, the assembly was cocked (not positioned correctly) and the lever remained out, blocking the pin, because the bulb had not engaged correctly. It was while removing the igniter after that I finally broke two of the tabs and had to replace it. I also nicked the insulation on the small wires near the male plug, and had to tape them once I got the headlamp assembly out.

It should be possible to assemble everything - the bulb, igniter, and retaining ring, with the bulb rotated in the igniter so that the lever on the igniter is visible - and then mount the assembly on the bulb receptacle (photo 2 in the prior post) and rotate it so that the lever in the igniter retracts; but that would be way too easy. One still has no space to plug the power connections into the igniter.

If one were to put the bulb in its proper position in the bulb receptacle and then try to add the assembled igniter and retaining ring, that approach makes it impossible to see the bulb, which tends to fall out when not held in place, and become rotated when it is not supposed to be. When properly in place the bulb is not free to turn in its receptacle, and the other parts must be placed at an angle initially, to engage the bulb holder with the retaining ring, then rotated into place. It sounds nice in theory, but I found it impossible to do in practice.

More to come.

 

The next two photos show the lever that kicks the connector out when you rotate the igniter to remove it. The tab is barely visible in the first photo below, in the socket. When the bulb is inserted into the slots on the igniter and rotated into position, the tab retracts so that the male plug can be inserted (second photo).

Unless the bulb is properly positioned in its receptacle, and the retaining ring is seated properly, and the igniter is properly seated in the retaining ring and the bulb's tabs properly engaged, and everything is properly lined up, the electrical connector cannot be plugged in and seated - and the bulb won't work.

How about just breaking the lever off or bending it out of the way? Is it part of the electrical connection?

 

Skylaw,
It's great to see this write up as I just completed this task a month or ago for my father in law's car and was looking for diy guide.

I do agree with what you said in (1) and (2) but let me tell you that I was able to do this without removing assembly ( I have small hands even then I had few scratch marks and bruises).
It took me 2 days (3 hours each) to complete this task as I was learning how to remove bulb from headlights, locking pin, bulb from ignitier ( this I learned from bmw forum after searching bulb part on googls
I did pull couple wires from its sleeve trying to attach the igniter which I put electrical tape over. I will make longer cables when I buy that car from him to make this pain free job.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

OK, now that the part has arrived, we can proceed. Before starting removal, it is best to protect your bumper's paint; it can be damaged removing the unit. I used painter's tape, which worked fine.

As referenced above, Eric's posts 3 and 7 at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w22...orums/w220-s-class/1571984-instructions-removing-head-light-control-module.html will take you through the process; what follows simply provides some additional photos that will hopefully make it easier to see what you're undertaking.

Referring to Eric's post, the headlamp assembly is held in place only by two bolts (labeled #1 in Eric's post and shown in the second and third photos below) and a ball-and-socket mount (fourth photo). I found it easiest to get the unit out by removing a grille support bracket (first and second photo, two bolts) and a bolt for a bumper cover bracket located just next to each headlight assembly (also first and second photo; Item #4 in Eric's post #3).

The ball/post portion is shown in the fourth photo below, and the socket into which it fits is in the fifth photo. Also note the threaded post behind the socket in the fifth photo - there is a notch behind the ball/post on the headlamp assembly that fits over that threaded post.

Once you have removed the two bolts that hold the headlamp assembly in place (each designated as #1 in Eric's post), pull the bumper cover forward and at the same time, pull the headlamp assembly outward, next to the tab as illustrated in Eric's post. Once the headlamp assembly starts to rotate, bend the bumper cover tab downward under the assembly, and lift the assembly slightly upwards over the tab (this will require a bit of force, and is perhaps the "trickiest" part of removing the assembly). The "ball" will pull out of the socket easily, and you can slide the headlamp assembly forward onto the bumper (photo 4, showing the assembly slid forward and resting on the bumper; and photo 6, showing the headlight assembly resting ahead of the fender, with the igniter removed). You can now easily access the back of the assembly to change the igniter or to remove the igniter and retaining ring, and replace the bulb. Alternately, you can also unplug the three keyed power connections on the back of the assembly and take the entire unit out, and do the bulb replacement on a workbench.

To replace the bulb after removing the rear cover, and viewing the headlamp assembly from behind, rotate the igniter about 30 degrees counterclockwise; the plug will be kicked out of its socket, and the igniter will come out of the bulb retainer. Then rotate the bulb retainer counterclockwise until it releases the bulb. Using gloves, insert a new bulb, ensuring that the slots in the bulb base line up with the tabs in the bulb receptacle; and hold it in place by reinstalling the retaining ring. Then, holding the igniter rotated so that its tabs engage the slots on the retaining ring, push it forward so that it engages the bulb, then rotate it into place. When you do, the lever that kicked the plug out will retract, and allow you to replace the plug (photo 7). Photo 7 is actually from the igniter on the opposite side, but you get the point.

Then, reverse the steps to replace the headlamp assembly. The socket/post will fit back into the slot with little trouble (a good thing, because you won't be able to see it). I checked mine by pushing in and pulling out a bit on the outer side of the headlamp assembly before replacing the two bolts on the assembly; it was solidly in place.

And after that, of course, there is the one on the other side. Though only one bulb is burned out, I'm replacing both to ensure a good color match.

 

Are you describing just changing a zenon headlight?? I don't remember it been that difficult, I got the bulb out the headlight okay, used the number on the bulb to order a direct philips replacement pair 2*£35. Then took the front wheels off, and removed front arch liners, unscrewed and lowered the bumper which provides security protection against people stealing your headlight units! Headlights came out easy then, new bulbs went straight in. At the same time I removed the polycarbonate lens covers because water was getting past the seal, I gave the silicon seal a generous coating of vasaline cleaned black dust off the inside of the lens, lightly polished all the chrome reflectors which made a huge difference and it has hasn't leaked since. Took a weekend to change both bulbs. Dealer wanted to charge me £700 for the privilidge. Andrew.

 

That's what I am doing, yes. However, I had hoped that Eric's WIS instruction in the link above would allow me to rotate the headlamp assembly enough to reach, without going into the wheel arch and lowering the bumper cover (updated note - it did). I know the WIS he posted carries an exception for Xenon and Bi-Xenon units - likely due to the headlight washers. Still, it seems the unit could be rotated outward a bit as shown (updated note: It could). That would hopefully provide enough room to change the bulb, which isn't difficult once one has adequate hand space (and can see what one is doing).

At any rate, I'm still waiting for the replacement igniter. And yes, like you, I'm not about to pay a dealer the kind of rate you quoted to change a light bulb!!!

NOTE: In fairness to AndrewSL500, I have revised posts that precede his, and the revisions may make his post seem a bit strange. It was not, before I revised those posts.

 

UPDATE: It wasn't the bulb or igniter, but the ballast

Now, the bad news: Despite replacing the igniter, trying two new Osram D2S bulbs, and reinstalling the old igniter and a new bulb, the low beam did not work. Silly me, when I got the MFD warning to check the low beam bulb, I thought somehow that might have actually been what was wrong!! It is not a fuse problem; the headlight fuse is an electronic fuse located in the SAM, and is not replaceable (it should automatically reset, if it tripped at all, when the bad component was replaced). The damaged insulation on the wires to the igniter was repaired (each wire is individually wrapped, then the entire group wrapped together; no bare wires are touching). The problem is likely the ballast (sometimes called ballast control unit). In fact, one site that supplies spare parts says that in their experience 90% of the time a Xenon headlamp goes bad, it is the ballast and not the bulb.

Update - The bad component was indeed the ballast (or as some sites label it, the ballast controller). It is located on the underside of the headlamp assembly, a silver metal box held in place by three T15 Torx screws (first photo). I determined the problem was with the ballast (Bosch part number 1 307 329 082, second photo) by swapping the working side with the non-working side; indeed, the situation reversed. MBOnline Parts listed the MSRP as $1350, but did a huge favor by pricing it at $1080. No, thanks. 3rd party prices I saw for the part ranged from $130 (used or remanufactured) to over $250 for new (I bought from a source listed on Amazon.com in order to obtain warranty coverage). After the price quote on the igniter, above, I did not check local dealerships. Incidentally, 3rd party websites show that a wide number of Bosch part numbers will substitute for part # 1 307 329 082, e.g., 1 307 329 066, 1 307 329 068,1 307 329 088, 1 307 329 072, 1 307 329 074, 1 307 329 086, 1 307 329 087, 1 307 329 090, and 1 307 329 092; there may be others. Some sites say the only important numbers to match are 307 329. I have not verified these substitute parts, however; I ordered the exact part number that was in my car.

It's a shame the only indication one gets is an MFD warning that left or right low beam is not working, with a bulb check symbol. Indeed the likely problem could be the bulb, the igniter, or the ballast, and you have no way to tell except by swapping the components side to side.

If I were to have a bad bulb indication again, with no way to tell just which component is bad, I would go about it in this sequence before ordering parts:

1. Switch the ballasts. If the problem follows, order a ballast. If not:

2. Switch the bulbs, see if the problem follows. If so, order bulbs (best to replace both, to maintain color match). If not:

3. Switch the igniters, see if the problem follows. If so, order an igniter. If not, I'm out of ideas.​

By the way - the entire job, removing both headlamp assemblies, then swapping the igniters and bulbs, reinstalling the assemblies and testing, then removing them again and swapping the two ballasts, reinstalling and testing, took an hour and 20 minutes. My guess is that once you have identified the bad component, removing one assembly and replacing a bad bulb or other single component would take no more than one hour the very first time through, and 30 to 35 minutes the second time. When I got the new ballast, without having to fool with the bulb or igniter, it took less than 25 minutes. Everything works fine now!

If you ever wondered what a ballast controller looks like inside - the last two photos show you.

 

You must have spent hours on this diy write up, thanks for posting this. Looks really good, and it is one of the most asked questions even by my young techs.

 

Thanks, Eric - yes, taking the pics, annotating them, and doing the writeup took far longer than doing the job itself. But I could not have done it first time through, without your WIS posts - and between your WIS posts and this, I hope it is easier for a first-timer.

Anyway, the writeups and photos have been updated since the initial posts - I hope the process is clearer.

 

good thread

I thought I had installed the xenon bulb incorrectly, so I located this thread. Believe it or not I turned my headlight selector to "auto" in the day time.... and thought it was a bad install

I did not remove the entire headlight and the space is moderately tight, but 10 minutes disconnect/reconnect battery, and 5- 8 minutes each headlight. I paid close attention to each step of disassembly. Making note of the disconnect action and position of each part before dismantling.

20-25 minute job

I did step up from 4300k to 5000k... wanted a bit more WHITE, not the ridiculous IMHO blues and purples I frequently see ...

good thread, thanks a million

 

The 5000K is definitely the way to go......

The Sylvania SilverStar Bulbs are amazing (apparently the vaunted Osram 66240 CBI bulbs in Silverstar packaging) whether you see them from down the street or whether used for night driving. The pure white beam really looks high-end.

I cant say the Diamler AG made a mistake, but 5000K vs OEM 4300K ??? hmmmmm ! ! !

 

6k is about as pure white as you can get before going to blue or too yellow. (imho)

 

Hi all,

I know this is a very old post but just managed to change the xenon bulb without taking the whole headlight unit out. Maybe my hands are super small.
I have found that the most difficult parts are getting the back cover out and the cable connector back in.
As suggested by all here, lights off, wait for a period of time for it to discharge, in my case I waited overnight before changing it. Open back cover, twist ignitor slightly anticlockwise, pull straight out. The cable disconnected automatically. Twist retainer ring for the bulb anticlockwise. It is a bit tight but with small hands like mine i managed to undo it.
A bit of horror when I saw the bulb. It was completely shattered.
Bulb fitted in reverse.
One question, how do you get the shattered glass out without taking the headlight unit out?
If I leave them in, will there be any problems?

Best regards,
David.

 

If you have a W220 S Class (It's not mentioned in the listing under your name) the lens is removable from the headlight once you remove the entire unit. The unit comes out pretty easily. Two bolts on the light, two on the bumper cover, and a bit of finagling.
If you are asking about an E Class, perhaps asking in the E240 forum would be the way to go.

 

Hi Kevin,

Sorry that I forgot to mention my car.
It is an 05' W220.
I will leave that at the moment and wait for some good weather before I try it again.
I can't imagine how the bulb explored like that - the middle part is completely gone.
It could be a coincident that it explored just after visiting the dealer.
The dealer wanted £85 + 20% vat per bulb and £75 to fit one.
I bought the Philips D2S vision bulb for £50 each and fitted myself so a saving of over £175.
I will change the other one as well to match the lighting colour.

Best regards,
David.

 

Honestly, removal isn't a tough job in the slightest. The clips that hold the lens to the headlight body do become brittle, so go easy.
Have you ever seen any moisture in the lens? Water getting on the bulb might cause it to explode, I think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrDW0dgs5HY

In this one he discusses removing the lens. If you want to skip ahead, it's about 7:20 into the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGi0oumxeM8

 

There are significant differences between a Halogen headlight cluster in an '01, and the Bi-Xenon assembly in the '05.

 

Hi all,

I may try to use a weak vaccum of some sort and a flexible rubber hose through the bulb hole and see if I can get the shattered glass fragments out.

I was lucky that I managed to replace the bulb without the need to remove the entire headlight unit.
It took me about 30 minutes taking time to study what I was taking off and where.

Thanks very much for the excellent writeup guided me through to complete this task successfully.

Best regards,
David.

 

I don't know - why don't you try it, and let us know how it works out?

 

I read through this last night and this morning, I removed the driver side igniter and lamp. Okay, the function of the lever is to push out the connector mechanically so that when you rotate and remove the igniter and expose socket contacts, there is no power to the igniter and you have no chance of receiving a 20Kv shock.

That being said, if the headlights are off and you use reasonable caution, you can just use a small needle nose pliers to break off the lever in the pin connector area completely off. This has no effect on the function of the igniter. Once removed, you can plug the 4 pin connector in BEFORE re-affixing the igniter to the bulb. The lay out on the R350 is a bit different with better access. It took me about 45 minutes to visualize everything on the driver side and replace the bulb. 14 minutes for the passenger side once I knew what I was doing.

I recommend you study the lamp and igniter orientations before dis assembling as re-assembly is not completely intuitive.

 

You are correct - it is not entirely intuitive.

I hope that if you (or a new owner) have to replace that bulb again, you recall (or know) that the safety kick-out has been disabled. The result could be the kind of shock that the warning label on HID systems warns about.

 

Because the access was so good on the R350, I did not have to remove the kick out lever though I considered it after reading posts complaining about not being able to re affix the connector once the igniter was in place.

But truly, unless the headlights are powered on, you're hearing the "click click click" of the igniter, you're well grounded, and you have your finger in or very near the socket, there is no shock potential. There is no residual charge in the igniter once it is done firing whether connected to its ballast or not.

 

Battery disconnect

Is it necessary to disconnect the battery before replacing the bi-xenon bulb? Doing so will likely require reprogramming the AAC (climate control ac system) with the dealer's Xentry machine.

 

It is necessary only if you wish to avoid a potentially lethal shock, as the warning labels on the car itself and in the owner's manual tell you. Assuming you are discussing a W220 (since this is the W220 forum), disconnecting the battery will not require reprogramming the air conditioning system. The things that could require reset, and the means for doing them, is covered in the W220 S-Class Encyclopedia sticky in the "RESETS" link.

 

Hi all,

Just wanted to say thanks for a great write up. Helped me remove head lights and diagnose very swiftly. So thought would share my Sunday morning under the bonnet with all! It looks like after time (my S Class is 2004) the ballast controllers are susceptible to water ingress. Once I removed my potentially offending one I could see a build up on the outside of scalley looking substance and once opened could instantly see the issue (See attached photo). You can carefully prise the pcb out the only thing holding it in is the heat paste between the rear of pcb and casing.
Stage 1:
I tried a pcb cleaning agent that I use at work to gently clean away the worst using a toothbrush (very gently) to remove any electrical shorts. Reffited to head lamp and tested but still not working.

Stage 2:

Go for broke! I got out my soldering iron and tried to clean the joints and resolder. Looking closer one leg of the IC looks to have totally disintegrated away. So after soldering refitted tired but still no joy.

So I am going to see if I can find the IC in RS or Farnell and maybe give that a try. Looks like a small resistor may have bitten the bullet too. If I do manage to get the parts and fit and working will let you know. So guess for now either find a second hand part or buy a replacement HID conversion kit and use to by pass the OEM one.

Has anyone bought / used non OEM kits to get around silly OEM costs please?

 

Further to Eric's post #4 above.

Those screen shots are quite hard to decipher. I have repeated the same WIS drawings as pdf files which can be enlarged and printed if required.

The WIS drawings below also cover removal of:

a) halogen headlamp assembly.
b) xenon/bi-xenon headlamp assembly
c) xenon/bi-xenon headlamp control unit
d) front bumper.

 

I had to replace the left front marker bulb that lives in the #2 pod as it had burned out and was triggering the two messages on the dash (LF marker bulb and LS bulb). There just wasn't enough room for my fingers to get into the pod and pull the bulb socket out so I had to remove the headlight assembly so that I could flip it up and reach in with pliers to yank the socket. Of course, the 13 year old plastic clip that secured one of the three plugs snapped off at the slightest bit of pressure but it clipped back in snugly enough that I'm not going to lose sleep about it.

Anyhow, by now, everyone has met this chatty guy who finally gets around to pulling the assembly out. I know that the pictures previously posted are worth a thousand words but a video almost does the job for you so...enjoy.

 

Randomly came across this thread....if you guys want a cheap alternative to bulbs, ignitors and ballast....look for bulbs/ignitor and ballast for a MK7 VW GTI. It's the same exact part.

I should know, I replaced one in a 08 GTI three days ago, so its fresh in my memory.

And from pictures in the first post...its completely identical. Down to that stupid little retaining ring that was a PITA to install blind...but I did do it.