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Radiator Fan Motor Replacement W220 S500

34K views 18 replies 14 participants last post by  Dave2302  
#1 · (Edited)
This is a short how-to on replacing a noisy (failed bearing) radiator fan motor on a year 2000 W220 S500.

Now your stealership will tell you that if your radiator fan motor is noisy you will have to replace the whole assembly including cowl, fan, motor and drive belt at considerable cost.

This is not necessary as the motor alone can be replaced.

First purchase your new motor. It also came with a new drive belt. *****Please see caveat below*****

New motor:

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Disconnect the electrical connection to the motor then remove the plastic motor cover by prising open the two push pin type fixings this will expose the motor.

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Next, remove the two bolts that secure the top of the cowling to the frame of the car ( I took the photograph before I pulled of the air intake hose so remove both hoses before removing the cowling bolts)

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Now remove the lower two bolts that secure the motor to the cowling leaving the third one loose but still in place.

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Now raise the whole cowling assembly upwards (the bottom of the cowling is not bolted, instead it has two pegs that locate in holes in the cars frame). The cowling will be able to be lifted a couple of inches from it's original position but will not be able to be removed altogether because of various rubber hoses. Now that the cowling is lifted up it can now be pushed backwards at the top towards the engine just enough to allow access for your hand to be able to pass between the radiator and the cowling so you can remove the drive belt which will be easy now that the motor has been loosened in the cowling.

Once the belt has been removed settle the cowling back in it's position and remove the remaining loose mounting bolt and remove the motor from the cowling.

Fitting the new motor is quite simple. First fit the new motor to the cowl using the three bolts (tighten all three bolts) then lift the cowling up and back to reveal the motor and fan pulley's again and run the belt around the motor pulley and start it on the fan pulley. Now if you rotate the fan the belt will be pulled on to the fan pulley (this bit is fiddly but the belt will pop over the pulley after a few tries). This part of the job is made harder because there is only a small gap to work in between the radiator and fan cowling.

Once the belt is around both pulley's the cowling can be dropped into it's lower mounts and bolted up at the top. Re-connect the electrical connection and replace the motor cover and test. You should now have a silent cooling system again.

Important:

Before bolting up the new motor make sure that the motor fits OK in the cowling in it's final position and that ALL of the three bolts are aligned with the mounting position.

During the installation of my new motor I discovered that the motor brackets did not align exactly with the mounting position in the cowling so I has difficulty in lining up the fixing bolts. As I was tightening the bolts I heard a sharp crack and discovered that a third of the plastic motor pulley has sheared off.

There is a very small tolerance between the pulley and the cowling. This misalignment of the motor mounting bracket / holes in my case was what caused the pulley to break when I tightened up the bolts so be carefull that your motor lines up perfectly with the cowling and make sure the pulley does not foul the cowling before the final tighten-up of the bolts.

Apart from the above and the cramped conditions between the cowling and the radiator during belt installation this is a simple job that should save a bunch of cash if your motor fails or gets noisy.
 
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#4 ·
Yes but the bearings had failed and it sounded like a turbine whine. I guess it may have lasted for a bit longer but the sound drove me mad and SHMBO was bending my ear.

It's my understanding that if the AC is turned on the fan runs continually. If the AC is turned off the fan only runs when the engine temperature rises, e.g. when in slow traffic or stopped or when no forced air passes over the radiator.
 
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#9 ·
I'm talking about the radiator fan but I had a problem with my fan not coming on till it got. To almost 120c so what I did was put in a new thermostat and housing from autozone then it still ran hot almost into the red then I decided to take thermostat out of the housing and just run it really cool worked fro about a day no problems then when I was driving home from work about half way home on a 70 degree night the check engine light came on and the engine was shooting out rich mixture throung the exhaut and I pulled over and cut the car off and checked everything oil and coolant all good the temp was a lil bit under 80c but the car was running really rich so I figure that the car was seeing that it wasn't able to heat up and wasn't able to go into closed loop so it overrided itself if this sounds right let me know I'm putting another thermostat in it today to see if that helps I hope I just didn't loose a couple of coils on the way home does that sound feesable I don't know any help will be great from anyones
 
#11 ·
Good writeup...I am dealing with my 'turbine' right now.

Part number for fan motor? It will make it easier to find on Wunderpartz website.

Anybody else swear by this method? I do know where to get an aftermarket fan assembly for $300.
 
#12 ·
Hello guys,

I have the same problem. However, I do not actually know if it is the motor or the fan because when I turn off the heating or the ignition the fan still gives out the same loud sound.

Can you please tell me where I can buy that motor? I will change it first and then will see if something changes.
 
#13 ·
take you fan housing out and hook fan to 12v power source to see if that is in fact your problem.
no need buying a part if your not sure of what the sound is coming from.
but a simple search of ebay and or amazon will prove very worthy as i just bought the whole assembly for 50$ more than just the motor.
 
#15 ·
I cannot see any of the pictures. Any reason why?
As per other reader, how can we be sure that it is the motor and not a bearing on the fan itself? My motor works as it should, that is when I switch on the AC or when the engine heats up. Only that slight whining is getting on my nerves.
 
#16 ·
I cannot see any of the pictures. Any reason why?
As per other reader, how can we be sure that it is the motor and not a bearing on the fan itself? My motor works as it should, that is when I switch on the AC or when the engine heats up. Only that slight whining is getting on my nerves.
 
#17 ·
I know this is an older post but just did this job on my car today and wanted say thank you for these instructions. They worked very well and saved me from pulling the radiator fan assembly (although I understand this can be done without disconnecting any hoses as well). Just a few additional points to these already excellent directions.

1. The push pins holding the plastic cowling might be brittle with age. Be prepared to replace them.
2. The electrical connector on the motor wire is attached to the cowling frame by a simple twist arrangement. This is not obvious by looking at it. Also, you must detach the motor first because there is not enough play in the wire otherwise to twist it on or off. Therefore, when installing the new motor, remember to twist the connector to the cowling before bolting it on.
3. The connector itself is locked with a small tab on both sides of the connector. You can only see one of them but just pry it up and the connector should come off with a bit of pulling.
4. Definitely check if the motor mounting holes are exactly the same on both motors. I happened to have a spare cowling to 'dry fit' and compare. But it would be just as easy to trace the old motor mounting holes to a piece of cardboard to compare with the new motor. Mine were exactly the same but should be easy to enlarge the holes with a file or drill.
5. To get better working space between the cowling and radiator, get a helper to hold the cowling up or carefully prop it in the right position. It is surprisingly easy to remove and install the fan belt despite the tight space if the cowling is positioned just right. NB. in addition to the radiator hoses limiting movement, there is a rubberized (transmission?) oil line bolted to the bottom of the cowling. So be careful & gentle when moving the cowling around. And of course, be careful not to damage the radiator itself.
6. The bottom bolt securing the motor can be tricky because of the tight space, limited view and obstruction by the wire/connector. You can get your hand in there to start the bolt but I ended up using a long extension and universal joint to tighten it properly. But easy with a bit of practice. Remember that you are threading into aluminum or plastic so be sure your fasteners are threading properly.

Again, many thanks for the original post. An easy job if you have a noisy fan motor!!!
 
#18 ·
I have a 2000 S430.
130 K on the old beauty.
Just bought it and noticed a little spike in the heat gauge at idle.
Was a little low on coolant.
Put some in.
How do you "burp" or release the air with this type of coolant reservoir.
Watched a couple of videos with standard radiator cap, not this with the separate jug of fluid.
Thanks, Warrenbenz.
Also, 2 things/ 1. when a/c turns on it cools right down. 2 the front engine cover is missing. The air flow might be screwed up. Thanks. W.B.
St. A. Fl.
 
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#19 ·
Necro thread closed especially since you have another running with identical question !!
 
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