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DIY: how to change oil s430

94K views 38 replies 26 participants last post by  Dave2302  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I figured this may be useful for the frugally minded folks on here such as myself. Didn't want to pay $150-$200 for an oil change from MB, so I did some research and performed the task myself. (disclaimer: do at your own risk, not responsible for injury, death, or blown up engines :) ). I found out that if you change the oil yourself, the oil, oil filter, and copper washer will run about $60-$80...PLUS, I like to have things done RIGHT. ;)

car: s430
alloted time: 1 hour or less
supplies: 8.5 quarts of 5w/40 mobil one or equiv; MB oil filter; MB copper washer for oil plug; LARGE drain pan ( you should have one that holds at least 9+++ quarts); rags & latex gloves.
tools: MB oil filter wrench, 10mm socket; 13mm socket.
Skills: Basic automotive maintenance skills. If you have NEVER changed oil in any car before, seek assistance from experienced auto person.

Warm up the engine by driving for about 10 minutes or more. Professionals recommend the engine oil is HOT so it flows better when removing it and also drains out more impurities. Then, drive up on service ramps (or jack up), shut engine, apply parking brake and chock wheels. Make sure car is stable b/c you are going under the car so you do not want it coming down on you -very bad. Then, open hood. If you don't know how to open a MB hood, you should probably not be doing any servicing. :)

I read about how MB uses a suction pump from the oil dipstick to pump out old engine oil. I do not have a pump, nor feel IMO that it is the best way to do things so I located the drain plug under the car. But FIRST, you must remove (4) bolts holding the plastic shield to allow access to drain plug. I used a 10mm socket, see here:
Image
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z315/95gatl/Misc/P1010265.jpg

After the plastic shield is removed and put out of the way, you can see the oil pan and oil drain plug as show here:
Image

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z315/95gatl/Misc/P1010266.jpg

Place your large oil pan container under the drain plug, use your 13mm socket to remove the oil plug. It's on there tight, or should be. Remove plug, be careful because oil it HOT and it could burn you and make a mess. When you have the oil plug removed, clean up and examine plug for damage. Replace the copper washer on the oil plug and place on your workbench for future install. I found that draining the old oil took over 20 minutes to drain most/all of it out.

Now the fun part...where's the oil filter? Most Japanese and American cars have them on the engine block somewhere, not MB. Here's a pic of the oil filter location:
Image

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z315/95gatl/Misc/P1010264.jpg

it's that round thing about the size of an oil filter. Use your MB oil filter wrench or equiv to remove filter cover. Once the oil filter cap/cover is off, the oil filter (paper type) comes out with it like this:
Image

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z315/95gatl/Misc/P1010267.jpg

Obviously that's the pic of the NEW filter, the old one will be soaked in oil. Replace the filter EXACTLY how it is shown in the instructions with the new filter. HINT: you have to push with a little force, the filter into place. IMPORTANT: replace all the rubber O-RING gaskets as well. Follow instructions.

Re-installed new oil filter assembly into place and torque to specs. By now the old oil should be done draining out of the oil pan. Replace oil plug and torque to specs. Do NOT overtighten. Replace plastic cover and lightenly tighten the (4) 10mm bolts. Open the oil fill cap just in back of the oil filter area and carefully pour approximately 8.5 quarts of recommended MB oil. CAUTION: do not overfill or you risk engine damage. I poured 8 quarts in and then checked oil level, then added as necessary. Replace oil fill cap, check oil one more time. Remove all objects under car and around engine bay. Start engine and IDLE only for 1-2 minutes, check for leaks AND watch for oil light (bad). If that happens shut engine off and seek assistance.

Now's a good time to remove car to a level location (like off the ramps) and shut off engine. Allow engine to sit for a few minutes and check oil level again. Add if necessary, but do not overfill. Also check for oil leaks.

You are done!
 
#3 ·
Thank you for the kind words.

I figured I would help out by posting something that many of us can do, but may not know "where to begin" since these MB are quite different than other manufactures in terms of "under the hood". I've worked on my own vehicles for 20 yrs, but when I open the hood of the MB, I don't know where to begin. haha.

I hope this helps out others, I just cannot see paying so much for a simple oil change at the MB dealership when I have done all my maintenance on every vehicle I have owned (except for the ones currently in warranty). When researching any how to change oil on the s430, I didn't find very many useful articles...hence I made this post. :)

I would like to add that I purchased the OEM (original equipment manufacture) MB oil filter from the MB dealer, along with the copper washer. I believe my cost was under $20 for both. Not horrible considering how much everything else costs. Also, I purchased Mobile One full synthetic oil in 5 quart jugs from Walmart. They had 5w/30 vs 5w/40, as I could not find 5w/40 mobile one oil anywhere. I'm pretty certain it will not hurt the engine. I run and have run 5w/30 mobile one all of my other vehicles for years with good success...and my MB is out of warranty for quite some time now.

The manual calls for 10k mile oil changes, how does everyone feel about that? For mainly highway miles, I understand, but many of us simply do not drive a bunch of highway.
 
#5 ·
THANK YOU

Thank You That Was A Great Write Up
A Lot Of Good Safty Tips There Also. Most Can Use This DYI.
Good Job :thumbsup:
Thank You For That
Harley03joe :Smoker:
 
#8 ·
Thanks for posting, but I take issue with certain things you recommend.

1. Raising the car on ramps in the front will leave some oil in the pan. To remove all of the oil, you will need to jack up the opposite side rear wheel to tilt the car properly.

2. Remember that a new drain plug crush washer is required.

3. The Filter has two black lines on the side. The filter must be pressed into the canister until only 1 black line is showing. Also of note, included with the filter are the 0-rings for the canister. You will have 1 o-ring left over from the package on the M113 engine.

4. Instead of filling the engine through the oil fill cap, leave the filter out, and pour the oil into the filter opening. Its much larger and therefore easier to fill, an no funnel is necessary.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Yes You Need The Strip Tool, And Remember Where The O's Rings Go On The Oil Filter
And Use Mobile 1

Rember>>> "Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosey"
And Yes Remove The Oil Filter It's Counter Clockwise
Clockwise To Tighten , And Don't Over Tighen ,
Rub A Little Oil On The Top O Ring Going Back On

Have Fun
Harley03joe :Smoker:
 
#20 ·
I personally have a air evacuation unit which sucks up the oil from the filler tube. Its very handy to have, you will need a powerful air compressor. I don't need to go underneath anymore with this machine. You can find them on Ebay for a great price. A great tool to buy from Mercedes is their specially designed Oil Filter Wrench. Its designed to fit over the black oil filter cover. It also works on my other Mercedes Benz (R class and ML class). A very good tool to buy is a set of sharp picks where I use them to remove the old o-rings from the oil filter shaft. I change my oil every 10,000 kms, since mercedes benz wants me to change it every 12k-14k
 
#21 ·
What Is The Name Of The Machine ? E-bay Is A Big Place
Do You Have A Link To It ?
Thanks
Harley03joe :Smoker:
 
#24 ·
2008 MB Fluid Specs

QUOTE 8.5 quarts of 5w/40 mobil one or equiv; MB oil filter;

Good DIY writeup but two cautions.

1) Mobil One 0w40 with Mercedes Spec 229.5 is what is approved for use in the engines of this forum's vintage. (5w/40 has a different formulation.)

"For Vehicles With Flexible Service
System (FSS or FSS PLUS) - U.S. vehicles
Model Year 1998 - Model Year 2004
Mercedes-Benz recommends that you use
only MB-approved synthetic motor oil for
all vehicles equipped with the Flexible
Service System (FSS or FSS PLUS).
Conventional petroleum-based oils must
not be used for vehicles equipped with the
Flexible Service System but may be used
on older vehicles. If the engine oil used
does not meet the above mentioned
standard, engine damage is possible."

2) A polyester fleece filter should be used, not a paper oil filter.

"229.5 or 229.511 engine oils must be
used in conjunction with fleece oil filter
( page 14) in vehicles with Mercedes-
Benz Maintenance System (as of
MY2005). Using other oil filters may lead
to engine damage."

The 2008 Mercedes Fluid specification and approved fluids list is attached for reference.
 

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#32 ·
Do you've to replace the copper washer on oil drain plug everytime? as i heard from few places if it's copper you only have to replace if it's broken or cracked.

did my first oil remove today, i got oil filter wrench from walmart which didn't work well, so i'll go to autozone in the morning and get right one. (it's 74.5mm in size). also i kinda messed up and moved away while oil was draining you need to stay there to check as flow of oil will change and you might need to move the container (i had about 1/4 qt spill outside guess i'll have to power wash it. and buy bigger container next time.
 
#33 ·
FLAPS filters come with all the parts needed to replace when you do oil. O-rings, copper washer and the filter. If you change the filter, you should do rings as well. If the drain plug comes out, put the washer on. I use a vacuum device to remove oil, so no washer needed replacement.
 
#35 ·
2006 S500, there SHOULD be a filler tube right side of the front of the motor ( all L or R directions are referenced from seated drivers position )

See attached pic
 

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#37 ·
2006 S500, there SHOULD be a filler tube right side of the front of the motor ( all L or R directions are referenced from seated drivers position )
It appears to me that there is a similar oil tube (I'm not sure I would call it a filler tube, looks more like where a real dipstick would go) on the M285/M275 V12 5.5L motor. Are there any V12 owners that DIY their oil changes? I have access to a nice auto skills center, and plan to give it a go. I found Mann or Mahle oil filter kits on Amazon.com, though they do not specifically say they are "fleece" filters. I will make sure I get fleece. Also, I plan on using Mobil 1 0W-40 European Full Synthetic motor oil. Since my shop has a lift; and I do not own an oil extractor, I will probably just drain from below the car. I will also need to get the 74.5 mm oil canister socket tool to remove the filter housing, of course.