Hi, I have a 2001 S320L cdi, It is an exceptionally quiet car. However, I do get a vibration/rattle coming from the radio/sat-nav area.

As far as I can work out it is the wood effect trim around the screen etc, but have found no way of fixing this rattle...

Any ideas?

 

I have the same issues. I came from a '98 Acura RL and I just drove it this weekend as it's my daughter's car now and I have to admit, the creaks and rattles when going over bumps are more prominent in the S430. To the point where sometimes I wonder if I should get a W221 instead. Mine is a 2006 with 35k miles now. Like you said, it's over rough NJ pavement but my RL seems to be less noisy when going over bad pavement.

 

Its funny because I have no rattles. Those short millisecond creaks get annoying though given that the rest of the car is so quiet.

Im going to investigate with some felt tape.

 

Oliverk

WOW!

We must be related because I am super anal about noises too! I got rid of a vehicle before because the dash rattled a little. That drives me insane. I can't even enjoy driving when there is a rattle or click or even a water bottle rolling back and forth in the rear floorboard!

I have an S class also (2005) and it makes a little cracking noise that comes from the odometer / speedometer curve in the dash. It sounds like the clear plastic shield is moving on the dash or something and makes the noise each time i hit a bump. On rough roads it makes the little crackle constantly and really irritates me. I have complained to my Wife on numerous occassions recently and want to take it apart and put some noise cancelling material in it. That has been my singular complaint about the car.

Please let me know if You start to try and maybe I will too.

CHunter32

 

Guys
I found my WIS software has fixes for these problems ( I hate the noise aswell). Obviously MB has had compaints. It tends to be between plastic and wood panels. It is easy to remove panels stick felt tape and re-install. Good luck.

 

peter, thanks for the input.

Can you elaborate a bit on where mb is seeing the noises coming from?

thanks.

 

I found the info by mistake when browsing through the WIS system. I have not been able to re-load software after Hardrive failure as I dont have the original XP pro disks and are currently using Xp home. However from what I remember the problems were in the dash around the command/aircon controls, the instrument cluster and between the center console and command plastic surround. All fixes involved removing panels and attaching self adhesive felt tape and re-installing. There is not a lot of screws for some reason and this does not help as other manufaturers have found. I also experience noise or creaking on driver door on occasions and not sure if door seal is the problem, however not a big enough problem to worry about. Hope this helps.

 

I have found in my S500 that the majority of the clicks/squeaks come from the plastic/wood trim interfaces, as peter points out. Good to hear MB confirms this. My car is far older than the ones you guys are discussing, but it is still quite quiet in my opinion when you take its age and mileage into account. I've found that the car is so quiet things that would be unnoticeable in another car really stand out in the S. I can't stand noises, even change rattling in a cubby hole and also have a hot rod that I baby as well (and disassemble the dash on to get at a strange sound). Ha, I'm sure my wife is frustrated with me commenting on the noises and using her to look for the noise while I'm driving ("touch that panel there, now again,...").

Good luck all,

LR

 

MB has a lubricant available that is designed for roof seals, but can be used on other plastic parts, it is pricey, but can help reduce noise.

 

Here's the "Wunder" Creme you are talking about.

Yes, it IS expensive, (I think Retail is like $70 bucks), but you just need a THIN layer of this stuff to squelch any squeeks... This small bottle will last you a LIFETIME.

I, too, am ACD (Anal Cumpulsive Disorder), and HATE squeeks from a Benz, even on the G's.

This stuff lasts MONTHS (almost a year!) even on the heavy G doors.

Give it a go! The part number is on the Pic.

G

 

Thanks for the information Bryan. Do you know of a similar, non-MB option for that?

LR

 

Reply to All Noise Haters

Hey Guys!

Does anyone have a step by step instruction as to how to remove the dash or the instrument panel? I don't know where to begin with this and have no pictures or instructions. Everybody's posts have been funny to me but the way. It's nice to know I am not the only nut who is this way... I feel better and will tell my Wife there are more of us.

 

The IP is easy. You need the MB radio tools, just insert into the slots and pull out.

The dash, well, I wouldn't go that far for a creak.

 

One last thing!

Hey OliverK!

I see the little slots on each side where it is to be inserted and now I understand how it comes out. I thought the whole dash needed to be removed to get under there!

Thanks for the new comprehension. Do You know where I can get the MB radio tool?

You are the Man.

Thanks, CHunter32

 

CHUNTER32
You can make tools to remove cluster in about 10 minutes. I think the whole kit sells for $50 on the web. I have printed a picture of the tools and copied them onto a bit of sheetmetal from a old shelf bracket in by garage. If you are interested I can post pictures and instructions. I made one tool and I can remove cluster in less than five minutes. I am hoping to complete repair on back light this weekend providing part arrives today. Otherwise I have seen a website that sells these tools.

 

CHUNTER32
Tool is listed on ebay for $8 plus del. If you have tin snips and a bit of sheet metal you can make them for nothing.

 

Noise Hatin'

Hi Peterstar!

That is great info since I hate waiting as much as I hate noise (maybe more)!

No seriously though, I appreciate You giving me that information and offering to provide pictures - that is super nice to do for a fellow. How do You know what size to cut those things? If You have time and feel like it I would be interested in those pics. If it is troublesome, I know You have things to do so don't worry!

Either way - You da Man to!

CHunter32

 

It's cool You are in Perth. My Wife and I met some great people from Perth while in Greece. I don't know why but I always seem to get along with people from Australia - maybe just a coincidence...

 

DASH REMOVAL TOOLS

I have attached a photo from the web of the keys. I printed the picture and then measured the approx width of the slot ~9mm (3/8"). I then used this info to work out the scale I needed for the rest of the dimensions and marked them out on a 1mm thick piece of sheet metal. The overall length is 85mm the little notch is ~4mm x 3mm and the curved bit is ~13 mm from the point. You need two tools normally however I got it with one. The holes are used to lock onto pins inside the cluster latches to pull the cluster out, however I was able to pull it out by griping the bottom flat bit of the cluster. You insert the tool curved bit facing inward and this will push latch in, you should be able to gently pull one side out, once one side is out do the same to other side. When pulling other side make sure side that is already out is only just out as the unit need to come out parallel (hence two tools normally). It took me around 10 minutes to make the tool and less than 5 minutes to remove cluster. Anyway wifes yelling at me to go out. Let us know how you go If you need any help ill write back.

 

I have attached a photo from the web of the keys. I printed the picture and then measured the approx width of the slot ~9mm (3/8"). I then used this info to work out the scale I needed for the rest of the dimensions and marked them out on a 1mm thick piece of sheet metal. The overall length is 85mm the little notch is ~4mm x 3mm and the curved bit is ~13 mm from the point. You need two tools normally however I got it with one. The holes are used to lock onto pins inside the cluster latches to pull the cluster out, however I was able to pull it out by griping the bottom flat bit of the cluster. You insert the tool curved bit facing inward and this will push latch in, you should be able to gently pull one side out, once one side is out do the same to other side. When pulling other side make sure side that is already out is only just out as the unit need to come out parallel (hence two tools normally). It took me around 10 minutes to make the tool and less than 5 minutes to remove cluster. Anyway wifes yelling at me to go out. Let us know how you go If you need any help ill write back.

Guess I'm another sound nut I'd like to stop the creaking in my instrument panel. But I'm a bit confused. The tools you show are listed on eBay as radio removal tools. You're saying these are used for removing the front of the instrument panel correct? They look reasonable since there are slots on the front of the instrument panel, and the hooks I keep seeing look like they would take out the whole panel rather than just the front.

 

Thanks Peterstar!

I am going to work on this and see what I can do. You might be a bit quicker than me with making the tools but with the instructions I may be able to make them. I really appreciate You taking the time to put the pic up with some notes. I will let You know how I fare!

CHunter32

 

To be dead honest, ordering them on ebay for $8 will be far easier and you know they will work.

 

could it be that temps have risen?

my car seems quieter now than it did when I made this thread in winter.

 

I have not found now that the creaking has stoped even without applying felt or lube.

Ummm, are you trying to say that the creaking has stopped even though you didn't do anything?

 

I have repaired the back lighting and in doing so I had removed cluster several times. I was going to apply some felt tape after final install however the creaking has gone away. If it comes back I know it will only take a couple of minutes to remove apply felt (velcro) and install. Obviously the cluster can move and creaking can come and go depending on temperature and vibration. I have read that Audi maintains a database of compatable materials for installation in its cars to prevent anoying sounds from developing in their vehicles. Over time materials properties change and this can cause problems with added noise. So from years of data they now can avoid using these combinations of materials and hence generate a good reputation for their brand.

 

for reference, I've identified another source of the creaking.

The top center climate control vent and the passenger side top vent.

If you press down on these when you first get into the car, you'll hear the creak, and after that, its pretty much quiet. I'll have to identify if there are any ways to prevent this.

 

I know I'm reviving an old thread but I just got the radio removal tools and am going to remove the instrument cluster to (hopefully) get rid of the creaking sound. Is there any point in particular that is the culprit? I intend to apply felt tape when I get it out but I have no idea where to start. Any thoughts will be appreciated.