S430 S500 Engine Mount Replacement DIY - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 07-22-2008, 08:09 AM
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S430 S500 Engine Mount Replacement DIY

I had the very common "shaking at idle" issue so decided to replace the engine mounts. It totally solved the problem! The car is smooth once again. Anyway, it went pretty smoothly and took about 3 hours total time. Here is a write-up in case anyone finds it useful. Please let me know if I need to address any of the content!
Jeff
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• Open hood and remove the air intake ducts to allow room to work
• Disconnect the battery due to shock hazard working near the hot starter terminal.
• Jack up / lift vehicle to a moderate height that can allow access to the engine from the top as well as bottom. I set mine using a 2 post frame lift to about 30 inches from the ground.
• Remove the lower engine cover panel under the vehicle.
• Using a 13mm socket, remove both lower engine mount bolts and set aside
• Using a floor jack or suitable lifting device, raise the engine via a piece of wood under the oil pan. The engine can be lifted about 3 inches before the AC hoses begin to show signs of stress. I don’t recommend going much further than this!
• Lower the steering rack about 2 inches. Using a deep well 18mm socket , retain the nut inside the subframe channel on the two rear bolts. Using another 18mm impact socket or wrench loosen the two rear bolts. Do not fully remove the rear two bolts but make them as loose as possible while still keeping the nut on the bolt. Completely remove the two front steering rack bolts using an 18mm open end wrench and impact socket. This will allow the rack to hang down but still allow easy reinstallation.
• At this point it is necessary to remove the upper engine mount bolts. On the V8, there is little room for a socket due to the exhaust manifold. With the engine raised it’s much easier to do this step though. From the top use a 16mm ( or 5/8”) ratcheting box end wrench and loosen the bolts. They will not come out due to their length, but the engine mounts will drop off the bolts when they are loosened enough.
• From the bottom of the car, fish the right side engine mount rearward and pull out between the cat , bellhousing, and subframe. You may need to raise the engine a tad if it won’t come out. It may take a little finessing and tugging to remove. The left side mount will come out towards the front between the steering rack and subframe.
• Press the new mounts into the same areas the old ones came from. Get into a position under the car where you are supported and can hold the engine mount against the upper bracket with one hand and still reach the upper bolt with a couple fingers of the other hand. As you press the mount against the upper bracket, screw the bolt into the mount. Just a couple threads is all you need. Now spin the mount clockwise to tighten while keeping a finger on the bolt. After several spins, you will feel there is a place where the mount locating pin will pop into the recess on the upper mount bracket. At this point the mount will no longer spin. You can now go to the top of the engine and fully tighten the bolt to ~55NM. Tightening the upper bolt is much easier while the engine is lifted so I recommend doing now.
• Reinstall the two front steering rack bolts / nuts and tighen all four bolts to spec.
• Lower the engine slowly watching for the engine mount threaded holes to stay in alignment with the subframe holes. Mine required no side to side adjustment but could be necessary with a crow bar.
• Reinstall lower mount bolts using Locktite and torque to ~35NM.
• Reinstall air ducts, lower engine cover, connect battery and your done!

S430
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-22-2008, 11:21 AM
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nice write up Thanks
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#3 (permalink) Old 10-26-2008, 08:00 PM
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Did you have any problem inserting new mounts into position? Do you think this could be done if using jack stands? great write up. I am trying to find some pictures to help me visualize this. Thanks
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-28-2008, 04:10 AM
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I definitely think it can be done using jackstands for the chassis and a hydraulic floor jack to lift the engine. Lifting the engine to the right height is key to being able to remove / install the mounts since the subframe and other parts get in the way. Just take it slow and keep an eye on the engine connections (like the AC hoses).

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#5 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 10:57 PM
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Nice write up! I have done this on my W210 and was wondering if it would be a real pain on this platform. Thanks for the info!
Jason
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#6 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zz4x4 View Post
• Lower the steering rack about 2 inches. Using a deep well 18mm socket , retain the nut inside the subframe channel on the two rear bolts. Using another 18mm impact socket or wrench loosen the two rear bolts. Do not fully remove the rear two bolts but make them as loose as possible while still keeping the nut on the bolt. Completely remove the two front steering rack bolts using an 18mm open end wrench and impact socket. This will allow the rack to hang down but still allow easy reinstallation.
Hello, I have come to this valuable guide and find myself confused at the point of lowering steering rack. I can not see the space to lower the rack more than just 0,6 inch. I have marked it to the picture. Could you please kindly advice where would it go?
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#7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 03:12 AM
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...unless steering rack will move forward
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#8 (permalink) Old 11-16-2013, 11:26 PM
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Couple pics and comments after doing 1/2 this job.

Kilek, that steering rack comes pretty far forward, but my experience was the tolerances are still pretty tight. That hole is where it attaches to the vehicle



I suggest definitely having two 18mm sockets for the steering rack frame.

The bolt on top of the mounts is a bear. I ended up making a double angled breaker bar to be able to crack it. What I could not figure out though is now to properly torque it?



For those who have not but might attempt the job, notice the recess. I feel like if you got lucky on a ratcheting wrench that was just so it might be doable, but I definitely have no idea how y'all got a torque wrench on that thing given the exhaust manifold and proximity to firewall. My only thought was that you maybe had the engine up higher which made the side of the engine bay issue less of a problem? I feel like I went a bit higher than the recommended three inches though (didn't measure). Didn't see stress on a/c lines but didn't want to push my luck in case there was something I was missing.

Only did the passenger and tranny mounts. Hopefully doing the driver side over the break. I'll include some more pictures as that one looks to be considerably more tricky.
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Bill

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#9 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 12:28 PM
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This write up was very helpful. I just did both engine mounts on my 2002 cl500. The passenger side was very easy. I did not have to drop the steering rack for the passenger side. Just used a short 16mm wrench to access the top bolts of the motor mounts. It's available on ebay specific to mercedes. Just do a search for mercedes engine mount wrench. Mine was $16. Without this wrench I would not have been able to get the top bolt torqued correctly on both sides. I also bought a 5/8" wrench socket to be used with this wrench on the driver side. Without it I was unable to get enough leverage and clearance to loosen the driver side top mount bolt head.

The driver side did give me a little trouble. Dropping the steering rack as suggested did not give me enough clearance. Since I did one side at a time I was unable to get the engine lifted to a proper height to allow enough clearance to slip old mount out and new one in. I did not want to remove both lower mount bolts at the same time in order to keep engine somewhat aligned. I went to Home Depot and bought a long 40mm height M8-1.25 bolt and threaded that into the bottom passenger side mount hole 2-3 turns. This allowed the passenger side to stay aligned. I was then able to lift the engine to allow enough clearance to allow removal and installation of the driver side mount. You'll need someone to put their finger on the driver side top bolt head to keep it from spinning while you install the driver side mount from underneath.

All in all a ver simple diy.

The dealer quoted me $1000 to replace both front mounts (parts and labor). What a joke! I got my mounts from autohausaz for $160. Follow this guide and save youself a bundle.

-Chet
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#10 (permalink) Old 04-07-2014, 10:03 AM
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I get a lot of movement in my shifter when I step on the gas hard from a standstill. So much so that it won't move side to side if I'm using manual shifting. Can I get away with just the trans mount, or do I need to do the engine mounts too?
'01 S430
I've been kicking around the idea of replacing them since I got the car in Feb, but was doing other stuff first. Also, my first attempt at putting the car on stands almost ended badly. Went a bit pear-shaped as I was lowering it back to the floor.

-Kevin
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