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Old 03-04-2008, 08:00 PM   #41 (permalink)
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The new top plate has improved design. It is thicker so it will press down a bit more than the original so it should seal better. And it has an O-ring on its outer edge, which does not exist in the original design at all. If the original seals the top for several years, this new one should last longer.

It is hard to tell when the compressor is running, especially when you are driving. You can barely hear it when engine is idling and you have the hood open.
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Old 03-05-2008, 07:31 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo......

since this is a MB design flaw....will it be save to say/wish/hope that if you buy the repair kit..and have the work done there they will replace the new top plates at no cost to us ? lolol
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Old 03-05-2008, 01:12 PM   #43 (permalink)
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how about the REAR side?

So far, most of the discussions have been around the two FRONT top strut.

How about the REAR two? Anyone know if they also need the repair kit?
Can we even access the top strut of the two REAR? At least to test with the soap-water.

Thanks
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:44 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBS430 View Post
So far, most of the discussions have been around the two FRONT top strut.

How about the REAR two? Anyone know if they also need the repair kit?
Can we even access the top strut of the two REAR? At least to test with the soap-water.

Thanks
Rears - No repair kit, Replace Only.
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:56 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rccmerc View Post
Rears - No repair kit, Replace Only.

I agree, the rears are completely sealed and there is no repair available, however they rarely go wrong so dont worry about the rears.
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Old 06-01-2008, 10:05 PM   #46 (permalink)
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My car is finally going in for the crack repairs tomorrow morning. I read somewhere it's best to replace the relay as well... is this really necessary?
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Old 06-01-2008, 10:18 PM   #47 (permalink)
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My car is finally going in for the crack repairs tomorrow morning. I read somewhere it's best to replace the relay as well... is this really necessary?
We normally change the relay when the pump is replaced but not when the struts are modified
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Old 06-03-2008, 05:47 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Check your relay in accordance with your fuse diagram. If it's Siemens, change it. If it's Hella, you're probably OK.

Changing the relay after repairing a pump problem is like closing the barn door after the horses are gone. The point of changing it to the more reliable Hella (now used as OEM by Mercedes) is to prevent the pump burnout resulting from relay failure.

Of course, changing the relay won't prevent pump burnout due to a system leak. But it does address one of the two main causes of pump failure.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:20 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I have a 06 S500. Do we have to repair both sides? What is the standard procedure? My car got cracks in the top strut - passenger side. Since I still have the basic warranty, the dealer just put a repair kit on that side only. The kit does not look as nice as the other side because it does not have the "epoxy filler" look. They just painted the kit black. At the present, there is no crack on my driver side strut but should I ask them to do this side as well - prevention? I am a little confuse.. Thanks.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:46 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Skylaw View Post
Check your relay in accordance with your fuse diagram. If it's Siemens, change it. If it's Hella, you're probably OK.

Changing the relay after repairing a pump problem is like closing the barn door after the horses are gone. The point of changing it to the more reliable Hella (now used as OEM by Mercedes) is to prevent the pump burnout resulting from relay failure.

Of course, changing the relay won't prevent pump burnout due to a system leak. But it does address one of the two main causes of pump failure.
I think you have hit the nail on the head, the relay does not cause the problem and the relay failure is actually an effect of the cause
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