Leaking Front Struts

[gixxerblack]

I live in Seattle, WA, and I went to Larson Mercedes at Fife, WA

[Skylaw]

Originally Posted by 2strokepwer

For front strut top rebuild at dealer in CT wants $400-2 kits, 4 hours labor @ $130.00/hr. This would include ride height adj./calibration. So $930.00 would do it.

My valve block was the problem, though, and they said my compressor was not making enough air, and needed replacement also. However, the raise/rise feature only took 5 sec., and the car was low only 2 really cold mornings, one of which it had been sitting 2 days in cold (valve block leak). Other times it sits for days, no problem.

Skylaw/others, here are my questions:
Does the air storage tank hold enough air to provide for 2-3 rise drop sequences (taking 5 sec to rise) within 10 min. all the while the compressor only giving 25% of normal air output(seals leaking in pump)?

And, how does $1600+ sound for just a new air pump(compressor) and valve block (I just did my relay 2 months ago)????

Anyhow, I went ahead with the work, they had the parts in stock, and provided a loaner(non-mb). I will update after.

$930 seems awfully high for the job.

As to the storage tank and valve block, I'm sorry - I just don't have that information.

[Gammaess]

I paid 220 per side for the kit + labour and the initial diagnostic charge. I told them what I thought it was before and they had said it was policy to do the diagnostics.
I had just changed the relay and my compressor was cutting on and off within a short period without any weird noises. Out the door two days before x-mas 1290.00 at newmarket mercedes benz Ontario, Canada.

[2strokepwer]

Update- The car still sinks after cold nights, also the morning I picked it up from the stealer, after paying $1700.00 to fix the very same problem. Guess I will have to live with it.

There should be some sort of dealer responsibility for these expensive airmatic repairs, as my pump was weak from all the topping off needed to compensate the defective strut tops before they were rebuilt.

[cjones500]

ok..went to the dealer today to see what this kit looks like...man...$150 for that!!! well I have read almost every post about this problem, but it seems that no one ever talks about replacing the top plate or the part that has the cracks in it. Now I will be the first to say I dont know jack about thi system, but if the air valve that goes into the black hard coating is ok, why not just replace the part thats crack? Does anyone know how much they cost? Just a question...just a question....

[finntexan]

It is the coating that will have the crack. What causes the crack is the pressurized air that escapes the strut and will bulge the black filler until one day it gives up and cracks. But the reason for the air leak is below the filler, in the round metal plate on top of the strut. More specifically, it is the seal that is no more air tight. And to fix it is to put in that repair kit which has the new top plate with new seal. At the same time you will get new circlip and brass adapter.

[Skylaw]

Originally Posted by cjones500

ok..went to the dealer today to see what this kit looks like...man...$150 for that!!! well I have read almost every post about this problem, but it seems that no one ever talks about replacing the top plate or the part that has the cracks in it.

Not only is finntexan's response correct, but what you saw is exactly the "upper seal kit" that is discussed so frequently in the forum. It has been written up often.

[cjones500]

Originally Posted by Skylaw

Not only is finntexan's response correct, but what you saw is exactly the "upper seal kit" that is discussed so frequently in the forum. It has been written up often.

Thats just it..when I looked at the "repair kit" the box was small enough to fit into my hand..hence me asking about the black coating/top plate. I know its been posted b4 on how to fix it, but was wondering if that black coating stuff has its own part number or how do they replace that. The board only talks about the kit...not the coating that the valve "sinks" into.

The reason I ask is I dont want any "suprise" price jumps when I get it done...I see a few cracks in mines but my car dont give me any signs that its about to or going out. I want to do a little PMS on it (prevenitive mantinance system..old navy terms..lol) but the shop told me not to worry about it till it goes out. But Im like dayum that..I dont want to be on the Hway with the kids going out of town and she goes down for the count. But the shop did give me a complete list of all the recall/campaign work that was done on it...she was a one owner but dang...I know the orig. owner as pissed (every one to date has been done) And on a side note.....Carfax is over rated! It may tell you SOME stuff...but not all! The shop quoted me this: Kits= $150 each; Labor=$420...and I need to call to see if that inclds height adjustment (another thing I was taught from this wonderful board!)

[finntexan]

Of the black coating, I was asking that also earlier but got no answer. Actually it is more or less cosmetic, it does not affect to the function or performance. The new top plate is black so painting the rest black as Eric242340 in China advices, works well enough. I plan to try later with black exterior siding caulk to give it "straight from the factory" look.

My car did not have any other signs than when jacking the front up, the air comes out from both sides. Wheels on ground, the air stays there. But I think that is already alarming sign.

Actually, I put last night the new top plates in and took photos. Bear with me, will take some time before I get the photos in a PDF here. But it was about one hour job per side, half of it just for carving the black filler out. I already wrote a description a couple of days ago on another thread.

Parts about $220 incl. shipping, DIY labor and the famous "special tools" (both) easy DIY in about one more hour. No big deal. But will be big deal if the air leaks on highway, or if you end up frying the compressor and/or relay due to prolonged leak.

[Ramunsa]

If the dealer fixes (replacing what ever needs to be replaced) how long it usually lasts before it brsaks ???

And how do you know if you pump is always running???