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??? help before i light my car on fire???

15K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  dese637c  
#1 ·
2001 s500 68000 mi.....i got a CE light and went to auto zone like i read to do here and got code p0307, p0303,p0300...so i changed spark plugs(all) same code still, so i changed coil packs nothing....MAF nothing..... now i got
p0136(bank 1 sens 1 circut malfuntion)
pp0156(bank 2 sens 2 " " )
p0150 (b 2 s 1 """ )
p0130) b 1 s 1 """" )
p0307( c 7 missfire)
p0303(c 3 miss )
p0300( random miss).............????????
any help would be greatly appreciated if not il post the pics of the car on fire for everyone.......
 
#2 ·
dese637c said:
2001 s500 68000 mi.....i got a CE light and went to auto zone like i read to do here and got code p0307, p0303,p0300...so i changed spark plugs(all) same code still, so i changed coil packs nothing....MAF nothing..... now i got
p0136(bank 1 sens 1 circut malfuntion)
pp0156(bank 2 sens 2 " " )
p0150 (b 2 s 1 """ )
p0130) b 1 s 1 """" )
p0307( c 7 missfire)
p0303(c 3 miss )
p0300( random miss).............????????
any help would be greatly appreciated if not il post the pics of the car on fire for everyone.......
Is the MAF sensor OEM or after market? First recheck MAF sensor, this unit will cause random misfire, some cyl misfire and fuel trim. and also check for vacuum leak.
 
#3 ·
dese637c said:
2001 s500 68000 mi.....i got a CE light and went to auto zone like i read to do here and got code p0307, p0303,p0300...so i changed spark plugs(all) same code still, so i changed coil packs nothing....MAF nothing..... now i got
p0136(bank 1 sens 1 circut malfuntion)
pp0156(bank 2 sens 2 " " )
p0150 (b 2 s 1 """ )
p0130) b 1 s 1 """" )
p0307( c 7 missfire)
p0303(c 3 miss )
p0300( random miss).............????????
any help would be greatly appreciated if not il post the pics of the car on fire for everyone.......
Welcome a-board!

The CEL is very common and very difficult to diagnose, and often related to a bad or very dirty MAF. This article might help: Check Engine Light and this one might help w/ the MAF: http://www.x-desk.net/ximages/21302_pgsi0079en.pdf

Bottom line is I would ask my dealer for help. Please let us know what you find out and/or do to solve the problem.
 
#4 ·
JOHNNY... its a bosch bought it from worldwide auto parts.....
JAYHAWK...ty for those links, i took it to the dealer they told me its the MAF quoted 860 charged 300 for dignostic then i bought the part changed it my self made it a little better but still shaking at idle, and after i punch it and it downshifts to a lower gear when i come to a stop the car shakes like the girls in the chicken noodle soup music video!!!!! THANKS YOU GUYS FOR YOUR HELP!!!
 
#5 ·
dese637c said:
JOHNNY... its a bosch bought it from worldwide auto parts.....
JAYHAWK...ty for those links, i took it to the dealer they told me its the MAF quoted 860 charged 300 for dignostic then i bought the part changed it my self made it a little better but still shaking at idle, and after i punch it and it downshifts to a lower gear when i come to a stop the car shakes like the girls in the chicken noodle soup music video!!!!! THANKS YOU GUYS FOR YOUR HELP!!!
I'm not pushing dealers, but your car should NOT be doing that and I have a feeling they might have fixed it right the first time if you had let them. I had found that many here spend much more time and money trying the DIY route when a good, albeit somewhat pricey, dealer service is what would have been best--much more cost effective usually.
 
#6 ·
sounds good , i guess im going to the dealer, any guesses on what it sounds like though i dont wanna get jacked like last time .... i took it for the harmonic balencer recall the salesman said" we looked at it and its fine, we wont have to swap it out"... now im no rocketscientist but when i used to work on hondas motor swapping/custom turbo kits stuff like that, i find it hard to beileve that in 30 min he cheked the HB ... or could i be wrong????
 
#7 ·
dese637c said:
sounds good , i guess im going to the dealer, any guesses on what it sounds like though i dont wanna get jacked like last time .... i took it for the harmonic balencer recall the salesman said" we looked at it and its fine, we wont have to swap it out"... now im no rocketscientist but when i used to work on hondas motor swapping/custom turbo kits stuff like that, i find it hard to beileve that in 30 min he cheked the HB ... or could i be wrong????
It could be any of a hundred things, like clogged fuel line, improperly installed MAF sensor, etc... So I can't even guess, but your dealer tech should be able to narrow it to a couple things a trouble shoot it in no time. They do charge a bit, but IMO it is worth it in the long run because you get it done quickly and correctly the first time--usually. There are of course exceptions, but that is what I would do.

BTW: Some dealers don't even charge for a code check, especially if you have them fix the problem. And a HB can be checked in less than a minute, if they know there stuff. Good luck. Report back so we can learn from your experience.
 
#9 ·
Despite of the earlier advice, reconsider at least whether you want to go to that same dealership again or try someone else. They are always the very expensive way to fix things, and not always the quickest/most efficient way for people who can do something themselves. See yourself, they already diagnosed that you have a faulty MAF. But when you changed it, it did not help (I assume you reset the fault codes, that is something you must do because adaptive values by the original MAF remain in computer unless you reset them or do multiple long driving to make the computer learn new values). So they would then have continued to replace other parts to find the defective one. And after a while your car may work again but you pay a lot.

By the way, did they do other recalls than the harmonic balancer? There are some more, e.g. a fuse connector/cable needs to be changed. And the newest, the high pressure ABC line is subject to recall. A good dealership should always check all the outstanding recalls and perform them or tell the customer that they checked those and all are OK.

I do not believe your problem is due to a clogged fuel line as that should more or less be OK in idle but cause huge hesitation problems for the engine to rev up. But your fuel filter needs to be changed, it is due anyway. It may contribute if it is extremely dirty, or if the built-in fuel pressure regulator is failing. Changing it is a DIY job, the filter costs less than $40.

With a good OBD II reader you can read and reset the codes yourself. Better ones would tell you also more, e.g. if the fuel mixture is lean or rich and that would help in diagnosing the problem.
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
yea im not going back to the same dealer, they did the same thing last time told me something like my computer needed to be replaced???? not even sure or dont even wanna think of the price he quoted me so i went to a shop by my house guy said your wires might be bad he changed em and the cars been fine for 2 years, then i went back to the dealer asked about the computer ,same guy said" no your computers fine" so really i dont like going to the STEALERSHIP just cause i know its there job to charge what they can and to some of us who arnt rich it kind of sucks..... but i wiil replace the fuel filter before i go just even if its not it it needs to be done, i dont have a problem working on cars just anylizing this thing is not possible without a better scanner.....THANKS FINNTEX!!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Jayhawk said:
There is a very old saying that I have really come to understand when it comes to the care of my MBs. After 37 years of experience w/ authorized dealer service centers, it is really true what they say: "Pay me now or pay me later."
Yea, I even think they are desperate to the extent of visiting owner's cars and breaking something minor to pop that C.E. sign up and than charge the $300 fee. My gas cap door has been levered into and the scratches are there to show it. I'll just keep spending my $20 or w.e. on replacing the cap.



I hope to find some MB guy messing with my car.
 
#15 ·
S500Spot said:
Yea, I even think they are desperate to the extent of visiting owner's cars and breaking something minor to pop that C.E. sign up and than charge the $300 fee. My gas cap door has been levered into and the scratches are there to show it. I'll just keep spending my $20 or w.e. on replacing the cap.

http://www.imagebeaver.com/view.php?mode=gallery&g=361117&photo=5

I hope to find some MB guy messing with my car.
I think you need to find a new dealer service center and/or an improved attitude. I do not believe that any authorized MB service center would do that...
 
#16 ·
went to the dealer said it was my excelleration module,paid 480.00 drove the car really slow for two days without really punching it and it drove fine but on the third day i had to punch it getting on the freeway and the car drove great till about 15 min later when i exited at the stop light car began shaking but realy little about 50%of what it was before, went to auto zone same codes?????? im gonna try the fuel filter for now before i take it back, can someone point me in the direction of where its located ???
 
#17 ·
dese637c said:
went to the dealer said it was my excelleration module,paid 480.00 drove the car really slow for two days without really punching it and it drove fine but on the third day i had to punch it getting on the freeway and the car drove great till about 15 min later when i exited at the stop light car began shaking but realy little about 50%of what it was before, went to auto zone same codes?????? im gonna try the fuel filter for now before i take it back, can someone point me in the direction of where its located ???
Please read the first half of the first sentence in my last reply...
 
#18 ·
dese637c said:
im gonna try the fuel filter for now before i take it back, can someone point me in the direction of where its located ???
Filter is below the car, left side, in front of the rear wheel. You need to remove a plastic cover panel (10 mm hex nuts) to see the fuel filter next to the fuel pump. The filter is like a small soda can, aluminum, and has four small hoses going to it (the fuel pressure regulator is built into this filter). You will need three new flared-edge hose clamps, two for approx. 8 mm diameter hose and one approx. 10 mm as the original ones are not reusable (just pry them off and discard).

Fuel filter change has been described in this forum, try search.