I went and measured from center of rim to bottom of fender and mine was 14.5" front and 14.5" rear.
I took the washers off and put it back to stock coz I am going to the dealer and see my friend and do warranty work. Nice drop now but I am going to the dealer tomorrow (Monday) and will get the them to drop it down software wise 1.5". Then when the rims get here by end of the month I see if it needs to go lower with your set up.
Thank you for the free advice, I am going to do my W211 E55 the same way when I get it back from the dealer on Monday.
It sucks that we can only go 135 mph on the CLS. I hope we find a way to eliminate that in a cheaper way.
thank you again
gino
I'm at 14.5" F & B on my sport II setting, and 27" F & B from ground to fender no washers. What gives? Does II drop even lower with 2 washers?
i think there may be a write up on mbworld.org if not on here just do a search.. if not i may have some info to email you that someone sent me prior to me using the adjustable links.
hey htowncls. i did a search and found just a little info on lowering via washer method. if you could couls you email me what info you have on it. anything would help at this point. my email is paulfromtulsa@yahoo.com thanks
Last edited by paulfromtulsa : 06-20-2007 at 10:05 AM.
paul i just sent you the few emails i had from someone on the washer method.. the basic principle is that the links in the front have to be longer to trick the computer sensor to lower the car.. In the back the link needs to be shorter to lower the car.. I didnt feel like using the washers and dremel tool to make these adjustments or pay $1200 on up for a module so i used the links i posted on your other thread.. the front links take 5-10 minutes to change out, the back is more time consuming because the car has to be jacked up so you can get underneath it.. If you dont have big hands it's not too hard to get to the link to change it out..
Great pictures, I just have a question. Is the front suspension still strong enough? as it looks like the bracket is the same sort of shape as the 'cradle' or roof of the assemblie. Is there originally any washers there, if there is at least one then I would reckon everything is cool. But if the bracket has no other support except for the 2 or 3 washers does this weaken the system? I have not had a look under there so I may be out of order. Or have you had no issues.
Chris
We use a lowering module, of course a Carlsson. We can also flash the ecu and lower the CLS we only charge 300 to flash the ECU in house to lower it. It is a lot better than washers and it is perfect level.
I have a few questions. First was the bolt long enough to safely connet to the nut after adding 3 washers? I would think you would need a longer bolt to make sure it doesn't come unscrewed..
Second, did you have to take the bracket off in the rear to drill the holes, or did you just do it under the car? Is the reason people are using a dremel, is because you can't fit a drill up in there?
I have a question for guys that have lowered their CLS with new brackets.
I'm having a problem with leveling the rear-end of my car. The left and the right side are like 1 inch diffrent, and since there is only 1 braket how can it be so off??? The driver's side has about 0.5 inch of wheel gap, and the passanger side has about 1.5 inches. Do I need to rest the computer or something to level it out? Anyone out there having the same problem??
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