Mercedes Benz CL600 Air Suspension Conversion Kit (-MBENZ-4-CL600) | Strutmasters.com

 

Oops, not sure how I didn't see that on their website.

How about for the CL55's though? I haven't found anywhere-on benzworld or anywhere else for someone's talking about converting a CL55 to a conventional suspension setup. I know I'm most likely to end up with a 500 anyway, while I've had the pleasure of driving several different 12 cylinder MB's over the years, from a 90's 600sl to a late model S65 that a friend bought recently (a friend who's able to spend a fair amount more on cars than I am as of now!) and I'd sure love to have that incredible thrust and ultimate smoothness under my hood, I'm still leery of the maintenance and operating costs of the 12's. Yet, if a decent deal on a 55 came along, I'd jump at that, but I really do not want the worry and the hassle of the ABC system.

 

I did a high speed pass in the MB EPC and the struts (and assembly) are the same for the 55 as they are on the 500 (I compared one wheel only and make the assumption from there). I'd presume that the 55 and 500 have identical suspension components as far as the Strutmasters conversion goes. Someone with a 55 can confirm it.

 

Thanks for looking that up, I'd sure be interested as well to see if anyone else knows about the conversions for the CL55's. I've been doing a lot of looking, at least online so far and I'd love to find a nice CL to buy, its amazing how they're looking to be priced around the same if not less than comparable CLK's and I'm guessing its mainly from the scare from the issues with the ABC system. I really prefer the looks and extra space in the CL and if the price is around the same and the scary ABC system can be taken out of the equation, I'll likely get on board. I just don't want to get involved in the "ticking time bomb" issue, I used to own a 2003 Acura CL coupe, which I bought nearly new and kept for quite a while. That car had the usual Acura reliability-basically nothing went wrong at all!-but the CL's and TL's of the same vintage had one major failing, the 5 speed auto trans they all came with could go at any time, requiring a full rebuild or swap, about a $4k job. Acura was even sued in a class-action suit over the issue and came out with a supposed fix for them, but even with the fix, they could still go at any time. It just wasn't a good feeling at all knowing that and getting nervous any time I thought I might of noticed a slight slip in the tranny, even though mine held out fine until I sold it with nearly 100k miles on the clock, which apparently was quite good for those cars on the original trans. I hated that nervous feeling and when you add in the possibility of losing control of a CL on the freeway at 80 MPH with the ABC problem, its just not something I ever want to deal with, no matter how nice the rest of the car is or how good of a "deal" I can find!

 

2003 CL600 (only 50k miles!) Silver/Ash

I've been doing a lot of looking, I really prefer the looks and extra space in the CL and if the price is around the same and the scary ABC system can be taken out of the equation, I'll likely get on board.

Hi,
I am about to put my 2003 CL600 up for sale. I spent over $10,000 this past year replacing
the total ABC system with a new one, complete new air conditioning system, new Michelin tires,
new brakes, new timing belt, new radiator and new water pump, etc.
The car is pristine, almost museum quality, except for hairline front fender cracks.
The have been treated to stop cracking. This is a typical CL problem.
The car has only 50,000 easy miles on it and is always garaged. Has never seen snow
or salt roads.

The car runs fantastic. Super smooth and very quite. The ash interior looks like it should
be on the showroom floor. If anyone is interested please email me and I will reply
with photos as soon as possible. I'm a certified MB concours judge and have a good sense
of how a car of this quality should be. Email me at: porsche.bob@sbcglobal.net
and/or phone me at: (650) 941-8621 I'm in Los Altos, California

 

I just bought an 02 CL500 in excellent condition. I had been considering a W215 for quite some time and flip-flopped on my decision to get one several times. Add to the decision process the fact that I used to own a Lincoln MK7 years ago - with the dreaded airbag suspension - and I know full well the realities of a "fancy, high tech" non-spring suspension.

The Strutmasters conversion is a viable one in my opinion. My car has had a new ABC pump and some lines replaced. Everyone who knows these cars knows ABC repairs are an inevitability. For me, if my car needs expensive ABC work, out it will go and in will go the Strutmasters coils. Sure, the ride is nice, but I'd think that the coils are pretty close, and I'm not racing the car anyhow.

Knowing that there is a near ideal backup plan for permanently remedying the ABC issue is why I finally moved on the car. I also suggest that you commit to spending some time looking for a good car - it will take effort.

 

Interesting that you compare the Mark 7 suspension to that of the CL. I currently have both of these cars and the Mark system is extremely reliable and easy to repair. The only thing I've done to the Mark is replace the front air bags for a few hundred bucks which took about 1 hour to do. The car has 190k miles on it and I bought it new. If only the CL was as reliable.

 

I'm wondering what the effects on resale would be and any liability that could result with the original system replaced with this kit.

 

To be honest I think it would make a difference to only some buyers. Unless you know Mercedes pretty well many I feel the ABC is just a MB Term and many are not aware of the cost of up keeping it. Me personally in the long run I would love for my 600 to not have ABC. For now at 40k miles its issue free:thumbsup:

 

I'm to the point where the Strutmasters is a go - the question is now, "do I wait or take a preemptive strike?" The other issue is arranging a ride in a converted car to see firsthand the results.

In my opinion, a traditional, sprung suspension is the most optimal mechanical system. Air, servo or fluid suspensions are simply asking for trouble, and without a redundant backup system in place should the primary system go kaput, it's the biggest liability of all.

I want a reliable car and not one which needs tender care and deep pockets to maintain. The ABC is the hole in an otherwise excellent car.

My experience with my Mk7 was not good. Knowing from past experience that "fancy" suspensions are only "expensive", I like "normal" much better!

 

I'm right there with ya boxxmann ! i have rebuilt both front and rear valve blocks and it worked for a couple of months but now I'm back to dropping overnight . i can hear my solenoids clicking after i sit at a stop light and let my foot off the break bringing the car back to level after raising up very slowly when i sit and idle .
there is a seal on the solenoid piston shaft that i believe is the problem not the o-rings that seal around it to the block .
i am going to order the kit for the cl500 pull all abc related fuses and cap the lines .
my car is a 04 cl55 amg .
Dave

 

The main problem with the conversion is that the hoses remain part of the system. Leaking hoses or a blown one can granade the pump. Why they didn't go further and plug the system at the pump instead of at the line to strut connections is beyond me.

 

I asked that question as well. Seems the system is capped at the strut and that's that. The pump can be removed and replaced with a pump from an S500 (it's my understanding from reading this forum that the S500 power steering pump is a bolt on fit to the CL500 (M113)).

That would be my next line of defense after the strumasters, and pulling the old pump out and replacing it with a pump from the S500 is a way to make sure the ABC is entirely bypassed and never springs a leak. The lines, valve blocks, etc. would all remain in place with the lines simply being capped at both ends (what the needed cap threads happen to be is another matter and a question I have without an answer (they won't be IMHO, SAE/Metric threads and will probably be some type of pipe thread)).

CLTravis has done a Strutmasters and he is local to me. He's probably the man who knows the best on this and has done much to his CL. My next action item is to locate a place to install them. My indie man wants to mark up the parts in addition to the installation time, so he's out. It may be in the end that I have to wheel this monster into my shop and just dig in

There are other matters, in addition, to the conversion, and you've probably guess by now I have thought on it. Another question is the ride quality and handling. Since the car's suspension will be without a F and R ARB, there are some things to consider. That being said, I could expect that the car will be somewhat loose in hard turns (just speculating), though I doubt I'll drive it that hard! I look at any loss in ride quality, if noticeable or apparent to be a minor sacrifice to gain the peace of mind and reliability of a conventional, sprung suspension.

We'll see what the future holds and unfolds for a Strutmasters. MY plan is to drive the car until the ABC specter jumps out. Then I will put the plan in place. I just found out today that the RR strut in my car is losing pressure and that the first shop who told me there were no codes apparently couldn't find it...the second shop did I set aside the bread for this, but I think the Strutmasters conversion is the way to go, and once some unknowns like the ride can be pinned down, will most likely make more and more sense as time goes on, the W215's get older and ABC repairs get more and more expensive.

Had they put a sprung suspension in the W215's from the rip, these cars would be perfect. It's strange the decisions companies make. Why such a decision would be made by MB is astonishing.

 

Are you in the Tampa Bay area? I'm in Seminole

 

I looked in the WIS and the power steering for the S500 and CL500 are identical. I understand there are two types of S500, one with and one without ABC. The one without is the code I need so I can find that car. This WIS is new to me, too.

EDIT: I looked in the EPC and found this diagram for the S500's power steering pump:

This is from the 220.075 model. The part number in question is A0024668601 and that brings up a cheapo (probably some imported unit) from a seller in Florida on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steer.../390557111747?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aef0495c3&vxp=mtr

It's a hundred bucks shipped.

Then I looked at the CL500's ABC pump diagram:

You'll notice that it looks strangely like the assm. in quadrant 4 from the S500's pump diagrams

Ok...then I referenced both part numbers from the ABC S500 and CL500, and guess what? They use the same pump (probably common knowledge!). My assumption is that if they use the same ABC pump, why, then wouldn't the standard power steering pump fit right to a CL500? That someone has done this tells me that it should. That part number, BTW, is A0024666001.

NB: Here's a good writeup for a power steering pump replacement in an S500. It doesn't seem more onerous than I'd expect:

http://mbworld.org/forums/5249623-post1.html

 

I looked in the WIS and the power steering for the S500 and CL500 are identical. I understand there are two types of S500, one with and one without ABC. The one without is the code I need so I can find that car. This WIS is new to me, too.

EDIT: I looked in the EPC and found this diagram for the S500's power steering pump:

This is from the 220.075 model. The part number in question is A0024668601 and that brings up a cheapo (probably some imported unit) from a seller in Florida on ebay:

Power Steering Pump w Pulley Mercedes Benz S430 S500 S55AMG S600 0024668601 | eBay

It's a hundred bucks shipped.

Then I looked at the CL500's ABC pump diagram:

You'll notice that it looks strangely like the assm. in quadrant 4 from the S500's pump diagrams

Ok...then I referenced both part numbers from the ABC S500 and CL500, and guess what? They use the same pump (probably common knowledge!). My assumption is that if they use the same ABC pump, why, then wouldn't the standard power steering pump fit right to a CL500? That someone has done this tells me that it should. That part number, BTW, is A0024666001.

NB: Here's a good writeup for a power steering pump replacement in an S500. It doesn't seem more onerous than I'd expect:

MBWorld.org Forums - View Single Post - S430/S500 NON-ABC powersteering PUMP R&R DIY

Great post. If this S500 pump bolts right up and the hoses do likewise, it's a no brainier that this pump with the Strutmaster struts totally eliminates the ABC system. And from what I understand, if one drives conservatively, the absence of a sway bar is not a problem. Are you going to try this?

 

There's no "try" with this conversion Once I go, I'm all in. To subsidize the cost of the conversion, my thoughts are on taking as much of the ABC out as I can and selling it all; e.g. valve blocks, accumulators, struts, pump (hoses stay put) - the struts go for sure, and so does the pump (it's still working fine and was replaced about 10k miles ago).

The S500 pump transplant should go smoothly (I'd hope). The high pressure ABC lines in the engine bay can be simply closed off with bolts and washers (those are banjo fittings), and the low pressure ABC return line can be closed with a plug (a large enough bolt inserted into the hose) and secured with a hose clamp. The other end of the ABC lines are covered with the Strutmasters' kit supplied caps. The ABC would be inert then - and the best way to go absent taking out the entire shebang (of dubious value anyhow).

Am I going to do it? I'd really like a ride in a converted car, but that may or may not happen. The various posts I've located from folks who have done the conversion agree the, "ride is not like ABC, but good anyhow..." (my paraphrasing). Those several forum posts will have to serve as my last line of reference for the reason that my mind is committed to doing the conversion, and it's simply a matter, now, of when. I'm inclined to do it sooner than later to get it off my head.

I'm calling a referred mechanic this weekend or Monday to discuss it with him. It's my impression that he wants to do this type of conversion and won't mark up my parts! Yes, this is a MB...however, it's a 10k MB and not the 100k one she used to be. That said, she gets treated according to the total number of "rides" she's had

Also, my thoughts are on if the conversion is done sooner than later, the extracted parts will have a better value If I could get a grand for everything, that would be nice

EDIT: More rooting around in EPC gives me the required parts to complete the S500 PS pump assm. Here's the deatail:

A0009941903 - Retaining disk to oil reservoir feed fitting - Part #40 (below illus.)

A0039945445 - Fuse (looks like a mechanical part, probably the C clip) - Part #40
(found this at MB of So. ATL http://www.mbpartsworld.com/p/Mercedes__S-500/RETAINING-DISK/7506119/0009941903.html)

N000000001117 - bolt to hold tank to timing case - Part #30

A0004661880 - gasket (on the fitting from tank to pump) - Part #20

A0004600183 - power steering fluid tank - Part #25

Here's the tank (includes gasket):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Po.../280992536419?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416c75d763&vxp=mtr

The bolt is a M6x23 (odd length) - I can get standard hex head bolts from McMasters in 22mm length (WTF w/ the 23mm!?!)

I think the other bits will need to come from MB :/

 

There's no "try" with this conversion Once I go, I'm all in. To subsidize the cost of the conversion, my thoughts are on taking as much of the ABC out as I can and selling it all; e.g. valve blocks, accumulators, struts, pump (hoses stay put) - the struts go for sure, and so does the pump (it's still working fine and was replaced about 10k miles ago).

The S500 pump transplant should go smoothly (I'd hope). The high pressure ABC lines in the engine bay can be simply closed off with bolts and washers (those are banjo fittings), and the low pressure ABC return line can be closed with a plug (a large enough bolt inserted into the hose) and secured with a hose clamp. The other end of the ABC lines are covered with the Strutmasters' kit supplied caps. The ABC would be inert then - and the best way to go absent taking out the entire shebang (of dubious value anyhow).

Am I going to do it? I'd really like a ride in a converted car, but that may or may not happen. The various posts I've located from folks who have done the conversion agree the, "ride is not like ABC, but good anyhow..." (my paraphrasing). Those several forum posts will have to serve as my last line of reference for the reason that my mind is committed to doing the conversion, and it's simply a matter, now, of when. I'm inclined to do it sooner than later to get it off my head.

I'm calling a referred mechanic this weekend or Monday to discuss it with him. It's my impression that he wants to do this type of conversion and won't mark up my parts! Yes, this is a MB...however, it's a 10k MB and not the 100k one she used to be. That said, she gets treated according to the total number of "rides" she's had

Also, my thoughts are on if the conversion is done sooner than later, the extracted parts will have a better value If I could get a grand for everything, that would be nice

Too bad we're not closer as we could do this project together.

 

i've been using my original abc pump for almost a year now since i did the strutmasters conversion. even though the pump started leaking out all of its abc fluid, the power steering side didn't have any leaks and therefore still ran fine

since my recent engine/tranny swap, i've removed many abc related hoses since i don't plan to use the system again and want to get rid of any unncessary weight on this boat, in the time since i've had the transplant finished, i've decided to leave the abc side of the pump completely open and disconnected, since i have done so the power steering has started to "weaken". so just leave the abc pump intact, and cap off the end of the abc lines at the strut quick disconnects, who cares if a hose blows on a system you're not even using...

would love to be of more help on this subject but i'm quite busy this time of year

 

Are you saying you can run the ABC portion of the tandem pump dry and there is no ill effect from it? Everything I've ever read says you blow an ABC hose, running the pump dry, and it destroys the pump. I assumed the bearing(s) in the ABC pump portion would grenade and the belt would self destruct from trying to turn it.

 

make sure power steering fluid levels are still good though, my abc fluid was dry, however my power steering was where it should have been, making me think the power steering side of the tandem pump is still functional

 

I personally would not want a 'strut converted' CL, especially a 600TT.
It is what makes these cars so different! Might as well buy a Toyota.
From what I have read on this forum, let's examine the cost of fixing the ABC. We can now clean out block valves in two hours to make them like brand new, saving thousands, we can get reconditioned and better shocks/struts from Arnortt Industries, saving thousands, we can replace all our hoses with better high pressure/ temperature ones from a hydraulics firm for literally a tenth of the cost of genuine ones (I have done this). I think the hoses are the MAJOR weak point for the whole system. Accumulators are cheap and easy to replace, which leaves the pump. I am sure you can get OEM parts, saving thousands.
Just my opinion, but the best of luck with any conversions to conventional suspension - please keep us informed of progress and outcome.

 

These cars are not 120k cars like they were a decade ago. Yes, I agree the ABC system is, in theory, superb. However, MB's execution of it is woefully poor. Any hydraulic system that results in catastrophic consequences if failed must have a redundant system in place. It's irresponsible to leave that key part out, and it's simply arrogant to expect 120k for a car with such an unreliable system in it...

These cars, now, are 10 to 15k cars. A new Toyota is much more...and, BTW, more reliable. If a SM conversion gives a quality ride, good handling, solid reliability and peace of mind...that works for me. What works for you and your car is not my concern.

Total up the cost of refitting 11 new hoses, ABC pump, 4 struts, 2 accumulators and two valve blocks. My guess is this:

11 hoses @ 200 each = 2200
2 valve blocks (MB new) = 3000
ABC Pump = 1200
Accumulators = 400
15 hours of labor to do it all (probably 25) = 1500

How much? 8300 bucks....you go do that...

For the difference with the SM conversion over your method, I'd save six grand...I could get a rather nice used Totota with the difference...AND have two RELIABLE cars...

Have fun in yours. Don't call me for a ride when the system goes tits up on you If you do, the best I could do is pick you up in my FREE toyota.

 

Totally agree Toyotas are far more reliable but boring and yes it is a shame that MB didn't put a bit more effort into its flagship model.
The CL W215 is in my opinion the most beautiful modern coupe that MB has produced yet. For me it is 'loving it warts and all'.
The previous owner of my CL600TT spent $18,000US on it with a blown pump and crap through the system. This was done through insurance at a dealership - so max price for everything!!

I have no criticism of what you are doing and can fully understand why you are doing it. I wish you every success for the suspension mods and follow this thread with interest

 

@Star Follower - it's good that work was done on your car, and the peace of mind that brings is substantial. 18 grand gets a hella nice Toyota! Though toyotas aren't as cool as a MB

I'm curious about the ride height post-strutmasters - they claim it's the same. That's another question, and I'd hope it is the same (once the struts are settled and broken in). Another wildcard is fitting ARB's to the front and rear of this thing...I can't recall which suspension this shares, but if it does have common parts to a non-abc car, it very well could have some potential (with some serious engineering backing it up )

 

I've been thinking much on this Strutmasters conversion. One of the points I'm weighing is what to expect from the car post-conversion by way of handling, specifically, the lack of front and rear ARB's (Anti Roll Bars), aka "Torsion Bars".

Since the ABC system regulates body roll, obviously, the car doesn't have ARB's. Once the ABC comes out, the question remains about the potential for the amount of body roll the car will have in turns, etc. - a valid question. Since all the information I have to go by is what I've read from some folks about it, there's no personal experience from which to draw for ride and roll.

Then I begin looking at the EPC and comparing parts from the W220.175 and the W215. I zeroed in on the front knuckles of each car and learned that there was a torsion bar on the front and rear of older W220s. I wondered if such a part could be fit to the W215. The farthest I have gotten is to know that the ARB type of the lower control arm from the W220 is interchangeable with the same part (ABC) on the W215. Consider the following details:

The first is the W220 and the second the W215. The lower arm referenced in the W220 drawing (#40) is identical to part #35 in the second drawing. Part #40 in the first drawing with the pin sticking out the the front (the one at the center of the assembly) is the connection for the torsion bar (drawing below):

The green arrow indicates the connection point from the bar to the pin on the lower arm. Unfortunately, though, I'm stuck as to where to mount the bar on the W215 frame, and the orange arrows show the mounting points. IF the W220's front torsion bar is a drop in proposition, then that's pure love...but I don't think I'm so lucky.

Can anyone with more knowledge give some wise words?

TIA

Boxx

EDIT: More sleuthing: Look at this front engine mount frame:

05 Mercedes W215 CL55 CL500 Front Engine Sub Frame Cross Mumber Suspension | eBay

It has a part number with a "220-" but the seller says it comes from a CL...wouldn't the part have a "215-" prefix? 2205241025 is the part number.

Here's a drawing of the front frame parts from the W220:

And these folks say the part is interchangeable from the S500 to the CL500...hmmm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W2.../150804149251?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231ca0b403&vxp=mtr

This tells me the front track from the S500 to the CL500 should be the same. It also tells me that, quite possibly, the front torsion bar would fit (this is a hypothesis at this point). Where the bar mounts is another matter!

 

It has a part number with a "220-" but the seller says it comes from a CL...wouldn't the part have a "215-" prefix? 2205241025 is the part number.

many of the parts on your car have the 220 prefix. mercedes uses a lot of the same parts in different models to save some production cost. the 215 is just a coupe 220 anyways..

 

would also like to add, i've successfully converted the abc pump to the regular power steering in my strut converted w215. takes a special triangle shaped bracket (if you order OEM the bracket comes with the pump, if you order ebay make sure it has the bracket as you can't find these anywhere)

 

This is excellent news! How much was the pump and what's the p/n?

You may find this information relevant: I've been digging around to know if a front roll bar can fit from the S500 to the CL500. They share the same lower arms in the front as well as (it appears) the lower engine frame part. I found a photo which made the roll bar installation make sense and shows me where on the frame the roll bar mounts:

My prior post covers the work behind this. It just work

 

the blocks wont be like brand new after a rebuild . i have done both of mine and the problem is the solenoids them self .
the o-rings are just part of it and if we could buy the solenoids by them self that would be awesome and solve the problem .
i am going to pull mine apart one more time and if that does not do it good by ABC system .

Dave

 

The work involved in replacing all of the W215's ABC lines is extensive and expensive. IIRC there are 11 lines in total, and some are not easy to replace.

@Travis - what pump did you use? Is the triangle part you referenced p/n 145 in the below graphic?

 

Any updates on your conversion? did you ever go through with the conversion?

 

mine has been great, need a master cylinder to get the benz back on the road again but looking forward to it soon

 

I have S class, with AIRmatic, and I never look deep in ABC problems.. but now, it is look like I will buy some CL 500 ,and with more interest look at ABC problems...

i saw on youtube this videos..

it is look like someone did/do conversation kit...

but on thread before, about conversation kit, they disscus that is a big problem about some SWAY BARS..

did anyone know something about that?

because, i dont see why S 500 can drive with coils springs, and CL 500 could noT??

but I must admit, few months ago my AIRmatic compressor, front left strut, and valve block fail down... I was in doubt to buy conversasion kit, but I didnt.. and I am very happy about that, because it is like a new car now...

 

I had the Strutmasters conversion yesterday on my 2004 S55. Drove the car to their shop since I live about 40 miles from Roxboro NC. I had a slow leak on the right rear strut and symptoms of a bad rear accumulator. The possibility of any car suddenly dropping at highway speed causing tire and body damage is unacceptable. There are too many hoses where solid lines could have been used. The car drives great with little or no
body roll. Sell the old struts to offset the cost.To me it makes sense.ABC is great when it works.When it malfunctions it can be dangerous.
Oh by the way, the service I received at Strutmasters was great.
ken U

 

The sway bars from the W220 are an easy fit onto the W215. This would require the fitting of the W220 lower control arms and power steering pump, plus the removal of all ABC hoses and valves. The W220 uses the same sub frames as the W215 and so all sway bar mounting points are there.

 

With all the concerns raised about the "missing sway bars" by potential buyers for the conversion, why would Strutmasters not point this out..???