CL500 2003 front rotors and pads replacement

[77lakepine]

Have done some in the past but not on this model. How do you deactivate the SBC and is a Star tool required. Thanks, Ken

[Pronto]

I've been checking into this and understand that the 215 doesn't have SBC. From what I can see, its only on the W210 (E class) and R230 (SL class) starting May 2003 using an SBC tool which is available from Autosenz dot com and others. Otherwise you need to use the Star diagnostics system to deactivate one. Oh and CLS too.

[360trev]

Originally Posted by 77lakepine

Have done some in the past but not on this model. How do you deactivate the SBC and is a Star tool required. Thanks, Ken

Replacing discs and pads on my 2004 CL500

I just did this job and it was a P-I-T-A of a job but I got there in the end.
I replaced the discs and pads all around. I purchased official Mercedes parts.

Replacing the front discs/rotors
You absolutely need some good quality tools to get the job done. The front caliper bolts (2 of them) require 18mm sockets (recommend a proper black impact socket and not cheap ones which will likely round the bolts). Also a reasonable sized socket wrench so you can get good torque behind it because its likely to be very tight. Also you need a set of torque drivers (a torque screw is used to hold the disc onto the hub). Once removed you may need to use some force to dislodge the disc. Mine had also welded itself onto the hub pretty tight (I ended up having to use a crowbar!!).

Replacing the front pads
Probably the most painful pad job I've ever had to do on any car and its all because of the pad pins. If the pads haven't been changed for a long time they can get VERY tight. The front pads where a total nightmare because the pair of pins that hold the pads in place had almost welded themselves into the calipers. You absolutely need a good pin punch or pin puller 1/8th inch (3mm). I recommend a snap on tool version because the cheaper ones just snap under force. If they are too tight I'd also recommend some WD40 release agent and spray it on the pins and leave to soak in for a few hours. Might be worth buying a pair of spare pins if they are very tight because its easy to damage the pins. You use the pin punch from the front and I'd also use a good solid lump hammer to get some much needed torque behind your swings.. They eventually come out but not without a lot of pain and sweat...

Rear Discs/rotors
On the rear discs make sure you release the handbrake before attempting to remove the discs otherwise you'll have an impossible time to release the discs (the handbrake shoes are behind the discs on the rear). Before you do this ensure the car is on level ground and properly secured by axle stands. If the car hasn't had the discs replaced for a long time you may have to buy some replacement springs (2 of each side) which can snap. Its important to affix the springs to the brake shoes (check they they are still properly affixed before re-fitted the rear discs) otherwise you'll get a clunk-clunking noise on driving as the shoes hit the inside of the hub carrier (not good).

Good luck...

[Pronto]

Its interesting, the easiest part for me on my cl was the pads. both sides took maximum 20 minutes. Dirty but not rusty.

Good luck!