DIY: 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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#1 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 07:08 PM
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DIY: 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator

DIY: 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator

Hi guys,

Visitor here! Normally I am over the bimmerfest.com for my BMW (I own a 1998 BMW 528i) but just helped a friend fix his 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator, so here you go DIY.

If your driver’s door actuator acting like a machine gunning up and down, then the Lock Actuator is bad. You can lube it and so on (search the forum) but 99% chances are: you need a new Lock Actuator. EACTuning has it for $105. PN 2117200335:
Parts Search :: EAC Tuning

Contrary to Factory Service Repair Manual, leave the Window Glass UP, you don't have to lower it.

Budget 2 hours for this job.

#1. Remove Lock Knob (Counter-Clockwise).

#2. Pull Tweeter Triangular Piece back (Rearward) and tape it out of the way

#3. Using a Flat Screwdriver wrapped in cloth, pry the bottom of the Plastic Shield on Inner Door Handle and remove the 2 Torx screws.

#4. Remove Lock Cover (Torx).

#5. Remove Torx Screw holding Inner Door Panel.

#6. Using a Flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth, gently pry the Inner Door Panel outward starting at 9 o’clock working toward 3 o’clock position (YELLOW Arrows). The Door Panel is held by a whole bunch of Plastic Clips.

#7. Clean your hands, now lift the Inner Door Panel Straight UPWARD.
Now STOP and make a note of how many Electrical Connectors (for speakers, door locks etc.) and how the Bowden Cable fits in there (this Bowden Cable goes to the Door Lock).
- Once you are comfortable with the setup, detach Bowden Cable and Electrical Connectors.
- Remove the Door Panel and set the Door Panel in the Rear Seat to avoid accidental damage (you don’t want to set this on the floor and accidentally step on it!!!).

Now, you have to peel back the Insulation Foam slowly enough to expose the area to work on.

#8. Remove the Lock Cylinder (the one you put the key in) by lifting the Rubber Molding a bit, there is a Torx Screw holding it. To prevent the screw from falling down, tape it from outside a little to hold it.

#9. Now Remove the 3 Torx Bolts holding the Lock Actuator and remove it.
During re-installation:
- Reinstall Foam Insulation
- Tighten Bolts #1-2, close door and check door for proper alignment
- Then tighten all 3 bolts.
- Then install Door Panel.


#10. Drill out the 3 Rivets holding the Window Guide.
TRICK: Put a masking tape on the drill bit so you don't drill past 1/2" deep to avoid damage to components behind it.
- For re-installation, I used new bolts and nuts M6 (Metric Size 6) x 10 mm long with washer (you can find them at any hardware store). This nuts and bolts combination works like a charm (better than factory rivets).
- I applied a bit of "LOCTITE" to the nuts.
- I like this bolt/nut idea because in the future if you ever need to replace the Lock Actuator again (hope not!) then you don’t have to drill the rivets out.

#11. Slightly Push the Window Guide Outward, now wiggle the Door Lock Actuator out (after removing the bolts holding the Actuator).

#12. During Lock Actuator Installation, there is a metal piece where it mates with Outside Door Handle, make sure this locks in with the Outside Door Handle (pull on the Door Handle a bit).
Also, there is a little Electrical Connector to the Lock Cylinder, use a small telephone wire to help fish it out.

PS: Always wash your hands before you touch Door Panel!

Hope this helps…. Congrats, you just saved $350 (MB Dealer wants $450 for this job including parts).
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Last edited by cn90; 07-14-2010 at 09:50 AM.
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-13-2010, 07:24 AM
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Hi,

Thank you for you very helpful post. I had the "machine gun" problem on the driver's door my 2004 W211 (right hand drive).
I replaced the lock actuator with a new one over the weekend and thought (hoped) I had solved the problem.

I now have a error on the dashboard display saying "Door open" and showing the driver's door. The door won't lock with the remote (the others all lock fine) but it will unlock with the remote.
The driver's door lock works fine with the metal key in the lock and the handle works from the inside and outside.
Any thoughts on what the problem is?

I thought I connected all the cables correctly -- they all have a pattern so it is difficult to get them wrong.

Thanks for any help.
Steve
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 08:17 AM
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Steve,

I had similar symptoms as yours after this DIY.
It turned out the culprit was the bad battery inside the remote.
Change the battery, it is about $4-5.
Report back if this solves the problems.
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#4 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 09:12 AM
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Hi,

Thanks for the response.
I took the door panel off again to ensure that I had all the cables attached correctly (probably for the 3rd or 4th time). I reattached them and temporarily replaced the door panel. I tried the remote again and the door locked, unlocked perfectly -- happy days .

There are 6 cables (including the speakers) and I attached them in a different sequence this time - I attached the ribbon cable second last and the larger white connector last (the one that is visible through the hole at '5' in your picture). I'm honestly not sure if the sequence made any difference but apart from that I didn't do anything else.

Brought the car for a spin and the doors locked automatically, locked & unlocked with the dashboard button and the remote perfectly .

The job took longer that 2 hours but the extra time had a lot to do with me being nervous about applying the drill to the Merc and also trying to take the old actuator to bits and repair it (unsuccessfully).

By the way, the new lock actuator cost me 125 Euros (plus VAT -- our sales tax) from a main Merc dealer. They had it in stock and the parts guy said it was a common issue.

Thanks again for your very helpful notes and photos - I wouldn't have attempted this without them .
Steve

Last edited by steveq; 07-14-2010 at 09:17 AM.
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#5 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 09:52 AM
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Two things:

1. So what was the culprit in your case?

2. Whatever you do, when the door actuator goes bad, it is about 6-7 years old, by that time the battery inside the remote is going bad too. Change the battery for remote!
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#6 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 10:07 AM
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Hi,

I think the issue was the sequence I attached the cables but I'm not sure. I read somewhere else that someone reported that their lock wouldn't work until the electric mirror cable was attached.
It could have been that one cable was not correctly attached initially or simply that the battery in the remote was weak and then took a new lease of life -- I'm not convinced on either of these as I had pushed and tugged each of the cables already and the other doors all worked perfectly with the remote at all times.

Steve
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#7 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 08:30 PM
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Nice DIY, thanks for the reference.

I hate pulling door panels. The chance of introducing rattles and other new noises always worries me. Plus those clips are so easy to break.
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-14-2010, 09:54 PM
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awesome instructions: i just replaced the lock actuator on the passanger side of a 2005 E500. do not skill any of the steps. all of them need to be followed. make a mentel note on how the module fits against the plastic and the door latch. i did not have a key lock to undo. good luck to anyone that will attempt this.
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 08:07 AM
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Talking 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator

In reading all the helpful posts on this, and studying the problem, I first tried removing the lock knob, and spaying a small amount of silicon spray onto the threaded shaft (hoping for it to work it's way down). After "manually working it in", I noticed that I could eliminate the "machine-gunning" by manually pressing down on the lock knob. BUT, since it's not latching in position, the knob will to migrate back up (to the un-locked position).
So, trying a "band-aid approach", I simply wrapped some electrical tape around the shaft of the lock knob, giving it some drag. Presto - no more machine gunning, the lock stays locked, the lock opens, problem solved!!
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#10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 10:38 AM
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