DIY: 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator
Visitor here! Normally I am over the bimmerfest.com for my BMW (I own a 1998 BMW 528i) but just helped a friend fix his 2003 E320 Door Lock Actuator, so here you go DIY.
If your driver’s door actuator acting like a machine gunning up and down, then the Lock Actuator is bad. You can lube it and so on (search the forum) but 99% chances are: you need a new Lock Actuator. EACTuning has it for $105. PN 2117200335:
Parts Search :: EAC Tuning
Contrary to Factory Service Repair Manual, leave the Window Glass UP, you don't have to lower it.
Budget 2 hours for this job.
#1. Remove Lock Knob (Counter-Clockwise).
#2. Pull Tweeter Triangular Piece back (Rearward) and tape it out of the way
#3. Using a Flat Screwdriver wrapped in cloth, pry the bottom of the Plastic Shield on Inner Door Handle and remove the 2 Torx screws.
#4. Remove Lock Cover (Torx).
#5. Remove Torx Screw holding Inner Door Panel.
#6. Using a Flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth, gently pry the Inner Door Panel outward starting at 9 o’clock working toward 3 o’clock position (YELLOW Arrows). The Door Panel is held by a whole bunch of Plastic Clips.
#7. Clean your hands, now lift the Inner Door Panel Straight UPWARD.
Now STOP and make a note of how many Electrical Connectors (for speakers, door locks etc.) and how the Bowden Cable fits in there (this Bowden Cable goes to the Door Lock).
- Once you are comfortable with the setup, detach Bowden Cable and Electrical Connectors.
- Remove the Door Panel and set the Door Panel in the Rear Seat to avoid accidental damage (you don’t want to set this on the floor and accidentally step on it!!!).
Now, you have to peel back the Insulation Foam slowly enough to expose the area to work on.
#8. Remove the Lock Cylinder (the one you put the key in) by lifting the Rubber Molding a bit, there is a Torx Screw holding it. To prevent the screw from falling down, tape it from outside a little to hold it.
#9. Now Remove the 3 Torx Bolts holding the Lock Actuator and remove it.
- Reinstall Foam Insulation
- Tighten Bolts #1-2, close door and check door for proper alignment
- Then tighten all 3 bolts.
- Then install Door Panel.
#10. Drill out the 3 Rivets holding the Window Guide.
TRICK: Put a masking tape on the drill bit so you don't drill past 1/2" deep to avoid damage to components behind it.
- For re-installation, I used new bolts and nuts M6 (Metric Size 6) x 10 mm long with washer
(you can find them at any hardware store). This nuts and bolts combination works like a charm (better than factory rivets).
- I applied a bit of "LOCTITE"
to the nuts.
- I like this bolt/nut idea because in the future if you ever need to replace the Lock Actuator again (hope not!) then you don’t have to drill the rivets out.
#11. Slightly Push the Window Guide Outward, now wiggle the Door Lock Actuator out (after removing the bolts holding the Actuator).
#12. During Lock Actuator Installation, there is a metal piece where it mates with Outside Door Handle, make sure this locks in with the Outside Door Handle (pull on the Door Handle a bit).
Also, there is a little Electrical Connector to the Lock Cylinder
, use a small telephone wire to help fish it out.
PS: Always wash your hands before you touch Door Panel!
Hope this helps….
Congrats, you just saved $350
(MB Dealer wants $450 for this job including parts).