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got new key from dealership .. doesn't work .. is this my mistake

3K views 29 replies 8 participants last post by  drromany 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey All
i lost my 2003 E320 original key and i was having idea of changing all ignition cylinder system and guys here they help me to not wast time and money on this and order new key from dealership
after order this key which cost me 270 $ and 120 $ towing the car to the dealership
at the dealership the guy test the key using jumper cable (Battery was dead) everything was fine the key worked
i went home ,, battery was dead ,, jump start the car ,, all electronic parts of the car work (windows, lights .. etc) and the remote itself locking and unlocking and pop up the trunk all are working
But
the key spin but no action to the ignition the key doesn't run the car
is this key failure or ESL failure or EIS failure
is jumping the car (the other car which i use it for jumping was running) affect the ESL or EIS
i didnt want to spent another 120 $ towing the car to the dealership checking it again
please help me guys
 
#5 ·
Actually the key was in the ignition switch while jumping
you know what there was a problem it might cause this problem but i didnt know how
the trunk was locked and i had to jump the car from the connection under the passenger carpet and it was not fit for the cable sometimes it go in out in out
 
#6 ·
Hate to say it, you likely burned your EIS -- you never, ever leave key in the ignition when jumping.

At this point, it might actually be cheaper to buy a complete EIS/key/ECU from any 2000+ E320 wagon than going back to the dealer and having them install a new EIS.

key/EIS/ECU might cost $500-600
New EIS from dealer + programming = $1k+

Call them for the price.
 
#9 ·
Steering wheel should be locked when key is out, and unlocked the moment the key is inserted. With the key in, even if car is off, you should be able to turn the steering wheel.

Bad EIS, I'm afraid.
 
#13 ·
Let's forget the whole jump starting thing for a moment.

Fact: car doesn't start
Fact: steering wheel doesn't unlock with key inside
Fact: EIS recognizes the key (hence why it says remove key)
Fact: EIS controls the steering wheel unlock and DAS (drive authorization system)

Conclusion: dead EIS.

And no, even if the starter relay or fuse was tripped, it still wouldn't explain the steering wheel lock. There is no fuse or relay that controls anything for the key, EIS. They're live all the time.
 
#14 ·
Thanks man I didn't need you to be pissed off from me I'm just trying to figure out the issue before going to the dealer , they trying to take as much as they can may be the issue with the key and they will say the issue with the Eis to get more money , you know what dealer technician didt know that you can jump the car from the cable under passenger carbet ,, I just try to make sure that this issue is not the key
Today I went to my friend he had the same car and order new key
I found that the steering wheel will not unlock till you turn on the car and when he remove the key out of the ignition switch, there are no "remove key" message
 
#15 ·
I don't know what else to tell you. When you insert the key and as soon as you turn it, the steering wheel should unlock. Newer cars, the steering wheel unlocks as soon as you insert the key in the ignition.

You can take the car to the dealer to get a new EIS, or just buy complete key/EIS/ECU/shifter combo or whatever the hell the security system is in W211 from craiglist or ebay and install them yourself.
 
#17 ·
I tested with my two E320's.

Inserting the correct key, the dash will say "remove key", then the system will recognize the key (with extra unlocking sound behind the dash), and let me turn the key to ON position.

Inserting a wrong key, the dash will also say "remove key", but the system will not recognize it (without unlocking sound) and will not let me turn the key to ON position.

Not sure about your situation.
 
#19 ·
anyone with MB sds diag can test both key and EIS. so unless you want to just waste money and guess have it checked out by someone with some MB diag equipt.


also use you blade key to open trunk. replaced bad battery and see what it does. low voltage wrecks havoc on the electronic system in a MB car. you more than likely fried something jumping it off so many times.
 
#28 ·
Hey my friend
now im getting more and more confused need your help
now i replaced the starter relay and the same problem
once i turned the key on, the fuse 59 blown
i changed fuse 59 with 20 Amp instead of 15 Amp the same problem
im wondering is this bad starter or something else
thanks
 
#24 ·
Thanks you very much for your help
now i figured out the problem will be one of these:
Starter
Solenoid
Relay

(The key , ignition system is working fine)
Am i right?
if im right, actually i didn't need to mess up the car because i didnt know how to get the starter and soleniod out
if i went to the dealer with this information and he will doube check these how much they will take
and if they gonna change the starter or solenoid ?? does anyone know how much it will cost labor only because im gonna buy these stuff from ebay , and are they offer towing in this case for free,
is there is any place i can do this out dealer
thanks
 
#29 ·
Please do not up the amperage of fuses unless you want spend thousands having melted wiring harnesses replaced. The amp rating is set by designers and engineers that have forgotten more than you or I will will ever know about the W211 chassis.

If you do not not want to go back to the dealer then at least take it a local German shop or even Firestone.
All you keep doing is posting things you doing to try and fix it that are destroying your car and that is all on you. Never tell any shop or dealer that you used a higher amp fuse to try and fix a problem.

Have a shop test the starter. It takes 20 minutes. I already showed you what a value it is at Amazon. You can pay that price or pay MB $800 for the exact same part if the starter tests to be bad.
 
#30 ·
you are right bro
i will take your advice stop testing because this will cost me more than i would like to save by testing.
once i will save money i will tow it to local german shop and ask him to fix it.
thanks for everybody who tried to help me at this awesome forum.
once i will two it to local german shop i will update with details
 
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