Seems very worthwhile IMHO to possibly increase fuel economy, keep engine oil cleaner, and reduce the potential buildup of sludge on the swirl vanes etc. It would be super nice to be able to have this thing leave EGR fully active to retain quick warmup times, and then turn it off once a certain temperature is reached. Dynamic EGR so to speak.
Looks like we have had some good input from the other thread from guys who have experience with the EGR delete mod. Perhaps we can move some of the dialogue that we had from the other thread here where it is more on topic? I'll kick it off...
Did you notice any oil inside the hose going down to turbo intake while doing the surgery?
I am asking because I am dealing w/this issue, which MB says is normal, but I do not like it. Oil vapor gets to intake manifold and coats it, good thing my EGR is unplugged now and no soot can make it to the intake anymore to mix w/oil vapor and form sticky goo substance. I have been dealing w/small leak from the gasket (part #59) between intake and so-called mixing chamber ever since I purchased the car. It is fixed now (after friend made me ticker gasket), but I had the opportunities to look inside the intake while changing it and I do not like what I found – black sticky substance (like tar) above the junction between charge pipe and EGR cooler.
I even replaced the Cyclonic oil separator thinking that the pressure control valve is not functioning properly, but there is still some oil into turbo intake. "
My reply:
Actually I did notice oil in the outlet tube of the separator. It had a nice coating inside of the tubing, and it was very apparent that liquid oil is getting through. The cyclonic separator is faily effective, but certainly not 100% under all operating conditions. I may actually incorporate a lower intercooler air bleed line(1/8" ID) in the lower intercooler much like I did with my TDI to ensure that a slug of liquid oil never enters the intake tract causing hydrolock or runaway.
I am also partially concerned about the coating of oil and soot in the intake on mine too especially as it relates to the swirl flap functionality. I have read that malfunctioning/sticky swirl flaps can cause sudden onset of rough idle, and other driveability problems. I want to do my best to make sure this doesn't happen to me, and perhaps reverse some of the buildup that may have accumulated so far. Part of the solution seems to be deletion of the EGR and then the other part would be reducing CCV oil vapor entering the engine. How did you delete your EGR by the way?
Josh - prior to moving the thread you mentioning adding a circuit to turn the EGR delete on and off without CEL. Alex on the UK thread said that as long as you throw the switches separately in the correct sequence, there should be no CEL when done with the engine running. Alex was talking about adding circuitry to do just this, having the trigger be a threshold for a minimum engine temperature.
To date I don't see any attempts in the thread to do that.
Josh - prior to moving the thread you mentioning adding a circuit to turn the EGR delete on and off without CEL. Alex on the UK thread said that as long as you throw the switches separately in the correct sequence, there should be no CEL when done with the engine running. Alex was talking about adding circuitry to do just this, having the trigger be a threshold for a minimum engine temperature.
To date I don't see any attempts in the thread to do that.
Right, I do recall reading about that. It only makes sense, and with such a simple addition of a super simple relay type circuit you can have the best of both worlds. I will most likely begin to gather components together here and look into where I might install it. I have even considered making one and poting it in epoxy to keep it sealed. I haven't really poked around too much in my cars fuse boxes and all yet. I would like to familiarize myself with them, and apply some dielectric grease to the fuses and relays to keep oxidation at bay. Older cars need to have the fuses/relays wiggled around now and then to help maintain a low resistance conection between them.
Looks like I need to start gathering components. I have a large assortment of resistors to work with, so no issue there. I will also need to figure out how to use a 2N222 since they are much more common on this side of the pond. Anyone have any ideas on the 2N222 circuit?
Ok, after a bit of a refresh on transistor circuits I have chosen to most likely base my EGR emulator on the 2N3904 which is a very common general purpose transistor. It's also an NPN like the original BC337 in Alex Crows circuit. I went through the schematic and labeled the base, emitter, and collector so I will make sure everything is wired correctly. I will also be sure to use a location for the circuit that will also have very moderate temperature swings so resistance values and gain won't change too much.
I am going through some information on how exactly to wire the EGR emulator/delete circuit, and found the following info from Isstay:
"The intercooler tanks are flat w/it’s bottom end, so it will not hold any oil, I already check mine - empty. Yes I used the schematics from the link above, just will add one thing – all brown and red wires from engine harness end on same terminals in the fuse box (you will find bundle of red or brown wires connecting to a single big red or brown wire), does not matter which one you will tap. Wires from MAF (red/blue) and EGR (yellow/grey) needs to be traced. It work from first time, w/o any CEL. "
From this information it looks like the PWM signal is taken from the EGR wire that is Yellow/Grey(EGR Pin 1). Can some one confirm this. I have all of the other wires pretty much figured out as far as where I will tap them etc, but the PWM wire I am uncertain about. I'm looking forward to getting this up and running fairly soon hopefully. Once I have the technical construction side of things figured out it should progress fairly quickly. Maybe I will make a video of the construction/install when it is all done.
I am going through some information on how exactly to wire the EGR emulator/delete circuit, and found the following info from Isstay:
"The intercooler tanks are flat w/it’s bottom end, so it will not hold any oil, I already check mine - empty. Yes I used the schematics from the link above, just will add one thing – all brown and red wires from engine harness end on same terminals in the fuse box (you will find bundle of red or brown wires connecting to a single big red or brown wire), does not matter which one you will tap. Wires from MAF (red/blue) and EGR (yellow/grey) needs to be traced. It work from first time, w/o any CEL. "
From this information it looks like the PWM signal is taken from the EGR wire that is Yellow/Grey(EGR Pin 1). Can some one confirm this. I have all of the other wires pretty much figured out as far as where I will tap them etc, but the PWM wire I am uncertain about. I'm looking forward to getting this up and running fairly soon hopefully. Once I have the technical construction side of things figured out it should progress fairly quickly. Maybe I will make a video of the construction/install when it is all done.
..
That is consistent with my understanding. Use an ohmmeter to confirm.
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