DIY Report: Transmission Flush 722.6 2005 E500 - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 07:32 AM
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DIY Report: Transmission Flush 722.6 2005 E500

Well I finally got around to flushing the transmission. Here is everything you need to know. 2005 E500 4matic wagon. 722.6 transmission.

Parts List:
- 14 Quarts 236.14 Spec ATF Shell ATF 134 meets this spec (see photo)
- Trans Fluid Filter and gasket (MB Dealer)
- Vinyl Tubing 1/2" ID fits the banjo bolt perfectly (Home Depot)
- 14MM x 1.5 nut. This is the size of the Banjo Bolt. I used a grinder to make the nut 1/2 thickness (Got at friend's shop this is hard to find, order on the net)
- Crush washers (seal washers) for banjo bolt (MB dealer)
- Copper seal washer for drain bolt
- Dip Stick for measuring fluid level (Samstag on line)
- Hose clamp (Home Depot)
- 2 2qt buckets from paint section (Home Depot)
- Red clip for fill tube lock (MB dealer)
- Torx T30 socket to remove oil pan
- 4mm Allen wrench (for drain bolt) might be 5mm I don't remember
- 8 mm socket
- Lots of paper towels
- Transmission funnel

Procedure:
- The service manual procedure is pretty good. I read it a few times and committed to memory
- Remove the engine cover by pulling up on the front of the front cover and then pulling towards you (see photo)
- Remove the rear engine cover by pulling straight up. This will expose the fill tube. Pull up the red clip (see photo) sometime this breaks mine did not so I reused it. You need to purchase one
- Measure the fluid level with dipstick. Mine was 3/4 distance between upper 25 deg and lower 80 degree marks. Car must be running and at this point the fluid was warm.
- Jack up car. I put mine on Jack stands and had all four wheels off the ground. Not sure this is necessary but the all the ATF in the pan drained out so when I lowered the pan nothing spilled.
- Remove rear belly pan only. 8mm socket. You can get to everything you need by just removing the rear belly pan
- ATF fluid pan is now exposed and you can drain. Use 4mm allen wrench to loosen drain bolt. Mine was frozen and was twisting the allen socket. I used a cold chisel and hammer to catch the edge and bang it off. Old mechanics trick. It mars the bolt a bit but it came right off when I did this.
- Drain ATF. Mine drained 3.5 quarts. I measured it.
- Use Torx T30 to remove 6 ATF pan bolts. They each have a "sprag" that comes off with it. (see photo). There is one sprag that holds a heat shield I left the heat shield attached and let the sprag hand by the wires.
- Lower pan and clean it out. Mine had a magnet in it (see photo) the magnet is secured only by magnetism to the bottom of the pan. My pan had black gunk in it. Used brake cleaner to clean the magnet and the bottom of the pan and install new gasket. (see photo)
- Install the pan with all sprags except for the one that holds the heat shield. Tighten to 8 n-m. This leaves you more room to work when you attach the adaptor to the banjo bolt of the side of the trans.
- Torque drain bolt to 20 n-m
- Workshop manual says to then pour 5 quarts in. I did this. A little confusing given that only 3.5 quarts drained out but I did it any way
- Remove banjo bolt with 19mm wrench. I have a shorty wrench and it worked well. A long wrench would be more difficult. There is not a lot of room to work unless your remove the driveshaft that is in the way. I did not remove the driveshaft.
- I went to look for a 14mm x 1.5 nut at this point. No one had one except a friend who is a mechanic. Make sure you have this in advance.
- When I returned, about 1/4 of quart of fluid had dripped out of the banjo bolt onto the floor. Probably from when I poured in the ATF. I had the banjo bolt disconnected at this point. Maybe try pouring it in before you remove the banjo bolt
- Bend down the line a bit and attach the banjo bolt to the banjo fitting with the 14mm x 1.5 nut. Then attach the 1/2 in ID vinyl tubing with hose clamp to the end of the banjo bolt sticking out of the banjo fitting. This is why I grinded the nut down to 1/2 size. I did not measure how thick it was. (see photo)
- Now you are ready to start the engine and let 3 quarts drain out. It comes out pretty fast. I would say that 3 quarts took 10 to 15 seconds.
- Fill 3 more quarts and drain 3 more quarts
- Fill 3 more quarts and drain 3 more quarts
- Filled 3 more quarts. At this point I measured everything that I had drained and it measured to around 12 quarts. At this point I had put in 14 quarts so I drained 2 more quarts to equalize them.
- The fluid coming out at this point was noticebly more red. The old fluid did not look that bad. The old fluid was still red but my fluid analysis said 277 ppm copper.
- Disconnect the "adaptor" and reinstall banjo bolt with two new crush washers. The spec is to tighten to 5 n-m then add 95 deg rotation. There was no way to get a torque wrench in there so I just did it by feel. Suprizingly little torque was needed to break the banjo bolt loose on mine so I took this into account when re-tightening.
- Start the engine and check fluid level. At this point I was about 8 hours later (I had a few Jack and cokes at my mechanic friends garage so it took a bit longer. I also visited about 4 places to find a 14mm x 1.5 nut.
- The fluid level was at the top of the 25 degree range so since it was cold I did not add any more.
- Done.

If I had to do it again I would estimate 2.5 hours start to finish for this procedure. I drove the car about 30 miles and everything felt OK. It did seem to be shifting smoother but that could be wishful thinking after a job well done.

I am going to do another analysis to see how things have changed. I will post before and after analyses when I get it. I just love when the machine is perfect. Feels like its faster uses less gas and rides better. Now I have to wash it.
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Jeff
2005 E500S4 Everything except Distronic and Heated Steering Wheel. "87" Porsche 928S4, "87" Porsche 944
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#2 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 08:31 AM
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Nicely done!

I would add, TWO fluid samples, one BEFORE the change (with the transmission hot) and another AFTER with the transmission hot.

This way you have a baseline of where the wear metals started and you can calculate your next fluid change interval from there.

Perform another fluid sample in 15,000 miles, subtract the baseline wear metals, and project when your next fluid change will be needed (very accurately I might add) by using the 100ppm maximum as your fluid change interval point.
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#3 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 09:04 AM
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Regarding the banjo bolt and attaching the clear hose for draining, other then the 14mm 1.5 nut you ground down, what other fitting is needed to attach this hose, anything?

Only this nut plus the parts existing on the car makes this happen?


If there is a special part needed from the internet, if you have a link, that would be very helpful.


Very Helpful writeup. Many Thanks!

'04 MB Sprinter Van 158" WB 316 CDI Silver Metallic
'06 E320 CDI Granite Grey Metallic
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#4 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 01:31 PM
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[QUOTE=kkanuck;4504303]Regarding the banjo bolt and attaching the clear hose for draining, other then the 14mm 1.5 nut you ground down, what other fitting is needed to attach this hose, anything?QUOTE]

A hose clamp to hold the hose to the end of the banjo fitting and that is it. The banjo bolt comes right out of the trans and the 14mm nut, hose, and hose clamp are the only other things you need.

Jeff.

Jeff
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#5 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 06:29 PM
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I used a plastic zip tie to secure the hose. Other then that nothing magical about it.

One thing I recommend is using clear hose, you can see the fluid change in color as the old stuff is flushed out turning a bright clear red as seen thru the hose.
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#6 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 08:57 AM
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is this procedure the same as a non 4 matic transmission?
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 02:12 PM
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Depending on the year there are minor differences, but the 7 speeds are different.
All 4matics were 5 speeds. The 7 speeds started in 2005 for the RWD cars.
Please complete your profile so we know what year and model you have. It is IMPOSSIBLE
to give out anything but a guess when we have no idea what you are driving.
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#8 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 04:24 PM
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ok ,, My profile is updated

I have a 2003 E 500 with 86k miles,,

The transmission has a slight vibration at around 2000 rpm when cold and less when warm.
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#9 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 04:54 PM
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I guess I have to crawl under there and have a look to see how this works....thanks to all for the parts list and tips....

'04 MB Sprinter Van 158" WB 316 CDI Silver Metallic
'06 E320 CDI Granite Grey Metallic
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#10 (permalink) Old 01-01-2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porsche964 View Post
ok ,, My profile is updated

I have a 2003 E 500 with 86k miles,,

The transmission has a slight vibration at around 2000 rpm when cold and less when warm.
If you are sure it is the transmission then most likely it is the torque converter.

I am not sure if your fluid has ever been changed, it can not hurt. If you
follow the DIY in this thread you will be fine.

As far as torque converter goes it is impossible to truly confirm it on the forums,
but if it is the options are limited and none of them cheap.
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