Well I finally got around to flushing the transmission. Here is everything you need to know. 2005 E500 4matic wagon. 722.6 transmission.
- 14 Quarts 236.14 Spec ATF Shell ATF 134 meets this spec (see photo)
- Trans Fluid Filter and gasket (MB Dealer)
- Vinyl Tubing 1/2" ID fits the banjo bolt perfectly (Home Depot)
- 14MM x 1.5 nut. This is the size of the Banjo Bolt. I used a grinder to make the nut 1/2 thickness (Got at friend's shop this is hard to find, order on the net)
- Crush washers (seal washers) for banjo bolt (MB dealer)
- Copper seal washer for drain bolt
- Dip Stick for measuring fluid level (Samstag on line)
- Hose clamp (Home Depot)
- 2 2qt buckets from paint section (Home Depot)
- Red clip for fill tube lock (MB dealer)
- Torx T30 socket to remove oil pan
- 4mm Allen wrench (for drain bolt) might be 5mm I don't remember
- 8 mm socket
- Lots of paper towels
- Transmission funnel
- The service manual procedure is pretty good. I read it a few times and committed to memory
- Remove the engine cover by pulling up on the front of the front cover and then pulling towards you (see photo)
- Remove the rear engine cover by pulling straight up. This will expose the fill tube. Pull up the red clip (see photo) sometime this breaks mine did not so I reused it. You need to purchase one
- Measure the fluid level with dipstick. Mine was 3/4 distance between upper 25 deg and lower 80 degree marks. Car must be running and at this point the fluid was warm.
- Jack up car. I put mine on Jack stands and had all four wheels off the ground. Not sure this is necessary but the all the ATF in the pan drained out so when I lowered the pan nothing spilled.
- Remove rear belly pan only. 8mm socket. You can get to everything you need by just removing the rear belly pan
- ATF fluid pan is now exposed and you can drain. Use 4mm allen wrench to loosen drain bolt. Mine was frozen and was twisting the allen socket. I used a cold chisel and hammer to catch the edge and bang it off. Old mechanics trick. It mars the bolt a bit but it came right off when I did this.
- Drain ATF. Mine drained 3.5 quarts. I measured it.
- Use Torx T30 to remove 6 ATF pan bolts. They each have a "sprag" that comes off with it. (see photo). There is one sprag that holds a heat shield I left the heat shield attached and let the sprag hand by the wires.
- Lower pan and clean it out. Mine had a magnet in it (see photo) the magnet is secured only by magnetism to the bottom of the pan. My pan had black gunk in it. Used brake cleaner to clean the magnet and the bottom of the pan and install new gasket. (see photo)
- Install the pan with all sprags except for the one that holds the heat shield. Tighten to 8 n-m. This leaves you more room to work when you attach the adaptor to the banjo bolt of the side of the trans.
- Torque drain bolt to 20 n-m
- Workshop manual says to then pour 5 quarts in. I did this. A little confusing given that only 3.5 quarts drained out but I did it any way
- Remove banjo bolt with 19mm wrench. I have a shorty wrench and it worked well. A long wrench would be more difficult. There is not a lot of room to work unless your remove the driveshaft that is in the way. I did not remove the driveshaft.
- I went to look for a 14mm x 1.5 nut at this point. No one had one except a friend who is a mechanic. Make sure you have this in advance.
- When I returned, about 1/4 of quart of fluid had dripped out of the banjo bolt onto the floor. Probably from when I poured in the ATF. I had the banjo bolt disconnected at this point. Maybe try pouring it in before you remove the banjo bolt
- Bend down the line a bit and attach the banjo bolt to the banjo fitting with the 14mm x 1.5 nut. Then attach the 1/2 in ID vinyl tubing with hose clamp to the end of the banjo bolt sticking out of the banjo fitting. This is why I grinded the nut down to 1/2 size. I did not measure how thick it was. (see photo)
- Now you are ready to start the engine and let 3 quarts drain out. It comes out pretty fast. I would say that 3 quarts took 10 to 15 seconds.
- Fill 3 more quarts and drain 3 more quarts
- Fill 3 more quarts and drain 3 more quarts
- Filled 3 more quarts. At this point I measured everything that I had drained and it measured to around 12 quarts. At this point I had put in 14 quarts so I drained 2 more quarts to equalize them.
- The fluid coming out at this point was noticebly more red. The old fluid did not look that bad. The old fluid was still red but my fluid analysis said 277 ppm copper.
- Disconnect the "adaptor" and reinstall banjo bolt with two new crush washers. The spec is to tighten to 5 n-m then add 95 deg rotation. There was no way to get a torque wrench in there so I just did it by feel. Suprizingly little torque was needed to break the banjo bolt loose on mine so I took this into account when re-tightening.
- Start the engine and check fluid level. At this point I was about 8 hours later (I had a few Jack and cokes at my mechanic friends garage
so it took a bit longer. I also visited about 4 places to find a 14mm x 1.5 nut.
- The fluid level was at the top of the 25 degree range so since it was cold I did not add any more.
If I had to do it again I would estimate 2.5 hours start to finish for this procedure. I drove the car about 30 miles and everything felt OK. It did seem to be shifting smoother but that could be wishful thinking after a job well done
I am going to do another analysis to see how things have changed. I will post before and after analyses when I get it.
I just love when the machine is perfect. Feels like its faster uses less gas and rides better. Now I have to wash it.