New to MB world. Just purchased an 04 e320. Has about 55k on it. I bought it from a used dealer rather than the MB Dealer. I'm almost positive that they changed the oil before I bought it and put regular oil in it rather than synthetic.
After you confirm that they used regular oil take the car to an MB shop and have it drained and refilled with Mobil 1. Also change the filter to a new MB filter.
After you confirm that they used regular oil take the car to an MB shop and have it drained and refilled with Mobil 1. Also change the filter to a new MB filter.
I agree. As there is no easy way to confirm the type of oil, I would change the oil with Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40 (USA) and change the filter to OEM for peace of mind. A used car dealer may have only changed the oil and may not have changed the filter.
Also have the coolant checked. If it's green in color, it's not Mercedes coolant.
Last edited by ML Precision : 05-10-2008 at 11:17 AM.
Mobil 1, what does that mean? Grease? Bearing lube? simply saying "Use Mobil 1" opens up as many pitfalls as the use of conventional oil.
Not all Mobil 1 oils meet the Mercedes requirements which are MANDATORY for the engine.
Mobil 1 oils that specifically meet "MB229.5, MB229.51, MB229.3 etc etc) are what MUST appear on the label of the oil.
Mobil 1 5w30 DOES NOT meet ANY mercedes specification, in fact severe engine damage can occur if this oil is used in these engines namely in the cam and bearing regions of the motor. Mobil 1 5w30 ESP (MB229.51) is a fully approved oil under the MB requirements.
Forget "Mobil 1" and focus on the "MB Sheet" requirements which determine the suitability of the oil for your engine.
Drive 3000 miles on clean oil then Drain, refill with Mobil 1 0W-40 and a Mercedes Fleece long life filter.
Don't worry, be happy
Be happy 0w-40 M1 meets 229.51
Worst advice you can possibly give.
Within a few miles damage is already being done to the motor. Certain regions of the piston and ring lands exceed the temperature limits of conventional oil and immediately start coking and varnishing the regions. Oil passages close to the combustion chamber also exceded the temperature limits of the oil during normal operation and after shutdown (refer to the engine failures in the Toyota V6 engines due to coking)
Pushing the wrong oil much less an engine designed to be run exclusively on Synthetic oils with specific approvals for 3,000 miles only insures that irreversable damage is done to the motor.
The lack of proper additives in the lubricant (ie MB229.X compliant) means that the engine is being damaged from the use of the wrong oil from start up to shutdown.
If the wrong oil is used it must be dumped and the correct oil installed without any delay.
DB
Last edited by drivbiwire : 05-10-2008 at 07:34 PM.
Within a few miles damage is already being done to the motor.DB
For the lack of engineering data measuring the wear from conventional oil, and the fact that the E series gives the option on the FSS computer system that conventional oil can be used but at a much shorter change frequenty, our opinons might differ.
I would really wonder how many .001" of wear would occur for using an oil that MB allows to be used at a shorter frequency. Granted it doesn't meet the spec for LONG LIFE oil on the 229.51.
Back from my aviation days,, dirty oil is better than no oil and contaminated fuel is better than no fuel when you are in the air.
For the lack of engineering data measuring the wear from conventional oil, and the fact that the E series gives the option on the FSS computer system that conventional oil can be used but at a much shorter change frequenty, our opinons might differ.
I would really wonder how many .001" of wear would occur for using an oil that MB allows to be used at a shorter frequency. Granted it doesn't meet the spec for LONG LIFE oil on the 229.51.
Back from my aviation days,, dirty oil is better than no oil and contaminated fuel is better than no fuel when you are in the air.
Aren't we having fun.
Conventional oil is NOT approved under any circumstance whether or not you use a shorter drain interval.
The issue is less about wear and more about oils that lack the proper HT/HS, additives for wear protection, oxidation stability and resistance to break down with sustained temperatures of +400F (temperature in the ring lands, underside of piston etc).
The fact is shortening the interval does not change the conditions the oil must perform in. When conventional oil hits the regions that exceed the oils ability to remain fluid, the oils can and will often leave residues that will permanently damage that region. Another test that tells part of the story is the NOACK volatility rating.
It's the same reason why turbine oils are different than piston engine oils. The temperatures of the aft seals exceed the capability of the oils to resist break down. Another requirement is for a low ash oil to eliminate residues after the oil "cooks" off when it leaks internally. The newer piston engines have in the same respect identical requirements to insure that the oil when it works into the high temperature regions of the motor does not burn off or leave deposits that can cause damage or inhibit normal movement of the parts in that area.
In the diesel engines you do not have liquid cooled bearing housings like you do in the gasoline engines. Also just like a turbine engine the turbine seals operate in a hellish environment. The turbo on my CDI has a higher sustained operating temperature (1040C) capability than most transport jet engines (960C +/-).
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