One of mine was popped out pretty much completely. Am getting replacements. In the meanwhile, I am going to reinsert it. Hoping this was causing my front end noise.
My online manual does not say to grease these (or not) when replacing the caliper.
I got it back in. Total PITA. Greased it with standard caliper grease. The rotor-side bushing raised rim is half torn off which allowed it to move outward toward the engine and out of the caliper.
I am wondering how to install these new caliper bushings once I get them. They have a hard plastic insert which does not allow me to "fold-in" the rubber to make it easy to install. Further, this plastic insert can pop out during install. hence the PITA. I finally had to cut the longer "dust cap" end lengthwise up to the inner stop rim and barely got it in.
Maybe they go in from the engine side?
Last edited by Schweinhund; 12-22-2012 at 12:17 PM.
Unfortunately it did not fix the noise but I can only imagine what it would have done one it came completely out. I am pretty sure it happened when I tried to "bed" my pads. I'll never do that again.
My road noise has progressed to the point where I am now thinking it is a front wheel bearing. So I will change them again (since it is cheap) and see what happens. It is very possible that the noise I was after back then is fixed and I goofed up the bearings and now they are making noise, a similar noise but not the same noise.
Unfortunately it did not fix the noise but I can only imagine what it would have done one it came completely out. I am pretty sure it happened when I tried to "bed" my pads. I'll never do that again.
My road noise has progressed to the point where I am now thinking it is a front wheel bearing. So I will change them again (since it is cheap) and see what happens. It is very possible that the noise I was after back then is fixed and I goofed up the bearings and now they are making noise, a similar noise but not the same noise.
Is the noise loud enough to make a video of? I tried on my car, didn't work. I'm just living with mine for now.
Btw, when replacing wheel bearings... would it be smart to replace the wheel hub as well?
I think I can. I will post it once I get to it. It is not necessary to replace the hub but it is a much easier job. If you have a press and are good at it, you can press in the new races pretty easily. In my cas I noticed they did not appear fully seated but I couldn't press any harder. Over a few weeks I found myself adjusting the preload nut several times each side and finally it stopped. They Mercedws method of setting preload is next to impossible IMHO. I just tightened until the rotor dragged then backed it off a little then went finger tight.
I think I can. I will post it once I get to it. It is not necessary to replace the hub but it is a much easier job. If you have a press and are good at it, you can press in the new races pretty easily. In my cas I noticed they did not appear fully seated but I couldn't press any harder. Over a few weeks I found myself adjusting the preload nut several times each side and finally it stopped. They Mercedws method of setting preload is next to impossible IMHO. I just tightened until the rotor dragged then backed it off a little then went finger tight.
I'll try to get Timken. The preload method used in the manual is to set the retainer so that 0.0005 is read on a micrometer when the hub is moved in and out. Is nearly impossible as the tolerance is so tight it makes the reading meaningless IMHO.
I'll try to get Timken. The preload method used in the manual is to set the retainer so that 0.0005 is read on a micrometer when the hub is moved in and out. Is nearly impossible as the tolerance is so tight it makes the reading meaningless IMHO.
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