I dynoed the car agian today. the gains were not as high as I expected but still very conclusive and show that the X-pipe DOES make a difference. As you can see evident by the graph, the X-pipe puts more "meat" under the curve and really smoothes ont the curve instead of making it look like a volcano it looks more like a smooth hill. It also improved the Air/Fuel ratios quite a bit which i desperately needed. The biggest gains were about 5 wheel HP (or maybe a little more) between 5250-5600rpm. The power does not feel like its dying off like it did stock, it pulls hard all the way to redline. It is important to note that anything before 3700rpm on the graph is worthless b/c we could only go WOT until 3700 otherwise it would kickdown & downshift. I would love to see what the X-pipe would do on the low end (b/c its supposed to help the most with low end torque) but unfortunately its just impossible. Peak torque on our cars is at about 3000rpm (which is max cylinder pressures) so thats proabably where the most torque gains would be (which is what butt dyno says). This also confirmed my suspicions that the car was making more power all the way to redline which the graph confirms. I know it may not be a huge amount of HP but heck, if you are going to replace the resonator, might as well do it with an X-pipe and pick up a few HP on the top end and some torque on the low end. If you notice at 3700 where the run began you can see that the gains were there so if somehow i could have gotten more gains of we could have started at say 2500rpm. X-pipe seems to give the most gains on the low-end and high end but only gives minimal gains in the mid range, but hey, gains are gains . Also if you notice the biggest improvements were made where the air/fuel ratio gap between the old graph and the new one were the largest so this means that If I were to get my A/Fs even lower i could pick up more power. I have a feeling it may be MAF related (though im sure this super thin high altitude air isn't helping).
The total cost for the X-pipe is $160 installed which is hardly expensive by benz standards. Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY. The car feels totally different now and even the dyno guys commented on how much better the exhaust sounded now compared to the baseline dyno, also the car really pins you in the seat below 4000rpm so i have a feeling gains would be even better on the low end. Either way i think this is conclusive evidense that if you are going to replace the resonator you should do it with an X-pipe. I think also on your cars the gains would probably be higher b/c my car is running extremely lean and therefore ECU is probably pulling alot of timing, if you guys did it i bet gains could get even as high as 10 HP.
I dynoed the car agian today. the gains were not as high as I expected but still very conclusive and show that the X-pipe DOES make a difference. As you can see evident by the graph, the X-pipe puts more "meat" under the curve and really smoothes ont the curve instead of making it look like a volcano it looks more like a smooth hill. It also improved the Air/Fuel ratios quite a bit which i desperately needed. The biggest gains were about 5 wheel HP (or maybe a little more) between 5250-5600rpm. The power does not feel like its dying off like it did stock, it pulls hard all the way to redline. It is important to note that anything before 3700rpm on the graph is worthless b/c we could only go WOT until 3700 otherwise it would kickdown & downshift. I would love to see what the X-pipe would do on the low end (b/c its supposed to help the most with low end torque) but unfortunately its just impossible. Peak torque on our cars is at about 3000rpm (which is max cylinder pressures) so thats proabably where the most torque gains would be (which is what butt dyno says). This also confirmed my suspicions that the car was making more power all the way to redline which the graph confirms. I know it may not be a huge amount of HP but heck, if you are going to replace the resonator, might as well do it with an X-pipe and pick up a few HP on the top end and some torque on the low end. If you notice at 3700 where the run began you can see that the gains were there so if somehow i could have gotten more gains of we could have started at say 2500rpm. X-pipe seems to give the most gains on the low-end and high end but only gives minimal gains in the mid range, but hey, gains are gains . Also if you notice the biggest improvements were made where the air/fuel ratio gap between the old graph and the new one were the largest so this means that If I were to get my A/Fs even lower i could pick up more power. I have a feeling it may be MAF related (though im sure this super thin high altitude air isn't helping).
The total cost for the X-pipe is $160 installed which is hardly expensive by benz standards. Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY. The car feels totally different now and even the dyno guys commented on how much better the exhaust sounded now compared to the baseline dyno, also the car really pins you in the seat below 4000rpm so i have a feeling gains would be even better on the low end. Either way i think this is conclusive evidense that if you are going to replace the resonator you should do it with an X-pipe. I think also on your cars the gains would probably be higher b/c my car is running extremely lean and therefore ECU is probably pulling alot of timing, if you guys did it i bet gains could get even as high as 10 HP.
Omeyhomey verdict: Two Thumbs Up!!
Awesome research! Thanks for the update!
You need to let the cats out of the bag, though. (remove post cats)
So what were your final dyno numbers with the x-pipe? My straight pipe (non-mandrel) mod netted me 289HP, 303TQ at the wheels. Just curious what you ended up with. Why are you selling your car? Getting an SL55?
__________________
-Jeremy
02 MBZ E55 AMG (0-60 in 4.9, 13.5@104mph)
91 Syclone #434 (0-60 in 3.7, 11.95@112mph)
07 GSX-R 750
heh, actually getting a G500 for next year, than a SL65 the year after that. I get a new car every year now. But This E55 has been so much fun. Man this car is a WHOLE new beast now with this X-pipe and the cold weather. Its turning into a great daily driver. My next (and most probably last) mod will be my custom Crankshaft pulley. Once thats on there (probably by mid january), I will be done. The max power numbers were only a few higher than last time but this time the "meat" under the curve was much more so it was more about improving the existing power band than gaining max peak HP. I really wish i could see the maximum torque gains but due to this damn auto thats virtually impossible. But the maximum torque gains would be at the maximum torque so 3000rpm it really pulls hard in first gear. honestly the butt dyno feels like alot more than it shows on the dyno for this mod but i guess thats true for most mods . either way im real happy. I still need to get my A/F ratios down but I have no clue how do to that. Im thinking i may need a new MAF and the reason my car is running lean is b/c it still has the original MAF on the car.
Vehicle: W210 E60, 1974 W115 200 powered by a 280S engine, 1963 W110 190 D powered by a 220SEB engine
Location: Philippines
Posts: 30
omeyhomey, jofo here, installed the sa,e X pipes as yours. Where exactly along the path of the pipes did you situate your X pipes. I put mine about 4-6 inches passed where the original resonator was located. Have some steely resonance before it gets whole. When comoing from rest to about 2500 rpm mine seems to have this vibrating type resonance before it cleanse out. And no my pipes are not loose the are as soloid as they were when original. No vibrations at all.
Thanks
Omey, glad to see you got it done bud!!!
now heres a big issue i have. your a/f is waaaaay off... whats going on man? they should not be like that, it needs to be a straight line!!!
gtg, more thoguths later
__________________ This E55 is FOR SALE!!!
So is the C5 Corvette
Pm for details... thanks!
omeyhomey, jofo here, installed the sa,e X pipes as yours. Where exactly along the path of the pipes did you situate your X pipes. I put mine about 4-6 inches passed where the original resonator was located. Have some steely resonance before it gets whole. When comoing from rest to about 2500 rpm mine seems to have this vibrating type resonance before it cleanse out. And no my pipes are not loose the are as soloid as they were when original. No vibrations at all.
Thanks
Hey Jofo, well your system is different than mine. so naturally you will have more noise and resonance. I still have stock muffler with stock cat section. Mine is right where the stock cat section met the stock muffler, the mandrel piping was before that and was a perfect fit (2.25").
yup I know. I have SERIOUS A/F issues but honestly EVERY car I have brought to Tucson (3000ft altitude with zero humidity) has run like complete shit, then when i take it back to Texas (50ft altitude & Humid) the car runs like a bat out of hell. Honestly i think theres nothing I can do about it, the weather conditions here are just so extreme that its outside benz's parameters. I will try and address it but honestly i think its not gonna get any better than this given its current environment.
2.5" stainless X-pipe, cheaper than magnaflow too. its 2.5 instead of 2.25 which is ok, any exhaust shop can adjust the diameter of the tubing slightly. should slide perfect over 2.25" piping. hope that helps. THe best part..... CHEAPER than a magnaflow. I highly recommend this X-pipe, stianless steel too for extra BLING .
Last edited by omeyhomey : 12-11-2006 at 01:24 PM.
. Also if you notice the biggest improvements were made where the air/fuel ratio gap between the old graph and the new one were the largest so this means that If I were to get my A/Fs even lower i could pick up more power. I have a feeling it may be MAF related (though im sure this super thin high altitude air isn't helping). 
(remove post cats)
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