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2003 E320 Wagon 4matic Rear Main Seal Parts + Questions

1K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  8899 
#1 ·
The leak from my rear main seal has finally, after several years, gotten to the point that it just needs to be fixed. Here is my parts list for this job:

Flex disc front kit: 202 410 13 15
Flex disc rear kit: 170 410 01 15

Shifter bushings (2): 202 992 00 10
Shifter bushing clips (2): 000 994 41 60

Front pump seals: 018 997 04 47 and 016 997 14 48

Rear main seal: 112 997 02 46
Rear main seal retainer plate: 112 011 02 08
Rear main seal retainer plate sealant: ???

Transmission electrical connector seals: 001 540 99 81 and 203 540 02 53

Flywheel bolts (8): 004 990 32 12
Rear main seal retainer plate bolts (11): 910 143 006 001
Torque converter bolts (6): ???

Transmission pan drain plug and crush washer: 0000 0000 08 84 and 140 271 00 60
Transmission filter kit: 140 277 00 95
Transmission pan gasket: 140 271 00 80
Transmission pan magnet: 000 988 09 52
Transmission filler tube lock pin: 140 991 00 55
Transmission fluid: 10 quarts

I would appreciate some guidance on appropriate sealant to use for the rear main seal retainer plate. I heard that silicone sealant d 176 404 a2 is good, but am not sure???

Also, I am having difficulty tracking down the part number for the 6 torque converter bolts

HUGE thanks!
 
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#5 ·
I don't know that engine, but on the face of it I don't think I'd be replacing these parts:

* Rear main seal retainer plate: 112 011 02 08

* Rear main seal retainer plate bolts (11): 910 143 006 001
* Torque converter bolts (6): ???

And are these specified as one-time-only bolts:
* Flywheel bolts (8): 004 990 32 12
 
#8 ·
I'm in and out of transmissions all the time. Mine is leaking too, and my 4-Matic is at 200k, but I will rebuild my tranny.

The torque converter bolts are one time use.

It is not any old thread locker. Their are about dozen grades for the mechanic. For this environment you want one that is high-heat, and High Vibration. You want Loctite 272.

Not sure how many miles are on your car if you are pissing oil out you must be in the 150k's to 200k's. I would remove the front seal of the transmission, and buy a new CVC torque converter(About $200-they come with all the updates for cold weather). I would replace the rear seal on the transfer box. Drain and refill the transfer box. Replace shifter bushing(#27). Shifter bushing arm bushing(#30) and shift spring tension cover bushing(#60). For a quicky reference. See post 90 and 91 of this thread

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/2825938-722-6-sudden-major-leak-bell.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...-6-sudden-major-leak-bell-3.html#post16166258.

Take a look at this thread. It starts on post 7. This thread is very identical, but you will not have the orange interlock seal that the 90's 722.6 have, but the rest is the same.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w14...t-harness-cooler-returnline.html#post12514225


The transfer box info is here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/2503497-transfer-case-wis-torque-specs.html

Now, unlike other transmission removal jobs. You will need to remove each bottom bolt of each motor mount(Good time to do a motor mount job!!) as you need to lift the engine up four to five inches to get clearance to remove each torque converter bolt. You can lift it with a jack, or use a hoist from the top, yet you may have to remove the plastic intake air-duct work into the throttle body as you run the risk of breaking it while lifting the engine. You will need to disconnect the front drive shaft from the front differential. The four Bolts are 5mm or 6mm hex. The flex-disk on a 4-matic uses weird size bolts. It is either 15mm and 16mm, or 16mm and 17mmm. That vibration damper is a pain to remove at the back of the transfer box to get to the flex disk.

I will be doing this tomorrow, or sunday at the junk yard to get a 4-Matic tranny out, but a normal 722.6 takes me a few hours to remove, but a 4-matic takes a little longer...

On the engine rear plate. Use swabs to clean out the screw packets with a solvent. Do it like two to three times. You will need to drain the oil as the oil will be over the lower oil pan. Some pans have a gasket, so you will need to soak up the oil on the gasket with paper towels like six or ten times. Clean the bolt threads from the screws on the oil plate with a solvent a few times to remove oil. Use a paper towel and your finger nail to get in. The torque on those oil plate bolts is real weak. I do like 50% more. The rear main seal comes in 0.5mm off-sets, so the seal does not land on the same wear pattern on the engine shaft, but you want it away from where the old one was, so it seals....

I know you may have more questions...

Martin
 
#11 ·
Excellent information, thank you. So my key concern here is just getting all the parts. Would you happen to know the EPC group and sub-group for that parts diagram you linked? Also, if you happen to know any of the missing part numbers, that would be helpful. Last, where do I source a CVC TC? It seems, based on their website, that they don't do retail....
 
#12 ·
How many miles on your car??

CVC TC's are sold through (Whatever It Takes) Wittrans.com. Here is the link to the locations of WitTrans local offices, yet mail order too.

Torque Converters Distributors Page - Consolidated Vehicle Converters, Remanufacturing Torque Converters for Automatic Transmissions

Based on how many miles you have I would change the TC. If you are at 100k, leave it alone. If you find scratching/ bluing on the shaft, you may have to change it. I would even change the front bearing in the Transmission as you may be stepping on "Pandora's Box" if you leave it alone.

I just got someone to host the pictures of some Transmission rebuilds I have done. I will point you to the pictures, and you will be able to download the Transmission service manuals, so you at lease see what is going on... Give me like four to five hours to post this link as I need to post it on this 722.6 rebuild thread that i started a while ago.

Now, Wittrans is here with the drawings, but it will not have a 4-matic trans. The tail-cone is different on a 4-Matic.

https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=722.6

I will get you the EPC on this with all the Benz numbers, but it is on one of my Service Computers.

Martin
 
#13 ·
Martin - again, thank you very much. The wagon has 120k miles. It shifts great...no flaring...nothing. Regarding the EPC...thank you. I do have a subscription and am comfortable digging around in there, but if you happen to come across the group # and subgroup # that would be great. Oh, and thanks for the Wittrans link. Cheers,

Greg
 
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