Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

BimM3r Fanatic Just Came To The Darkside

1K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  260e crusier 
#1 ·
It's my First Post so excuse my ignorance. I just bought a 1997 e320.

I've been a long time BMW owner Who Has restored and Collected Classic BMWs since I was 16. So there are certain quarks I have come to expect when getting a new one. I assume owning a Merc or Mercedes (what ever you guys wanna call em) comes with it's own baggage.

>Back Story

I did dabble in the dark arts when I was 18 when my dad bought me an 82 300d when I was recovering from a motorcycle accident. Unfortunately I did not care to appreciate how good it at the time. This week I took the red pill and found myself with a 1997 e320 and have no idea where to start.

>What I think I know:

*My 82 300d's fuse-box had a gremlin in it. Eventually I would remedy the problems by carrying extra fuses and a coat hanger I would use as a jump between fuses.

*The car was bought for $400 because a U clip located in the pumpkin was not installed and it was not able to drive the rear end was disassembled and installed in the most tedious manor possible.

*The Power Steering Seemed to fluid would need to be replaced every week to avoid the squeal.

*As the engine's turbo kicked on around 35-45 mph the transmission would change gear causing a noticeable jerk forward.

* When Selling it There was a strong market for them.

>MY Questions:

*What Is the first thing I replace Immediately.

*Where are The Mercedes Specialty websites that sell quality parts to maintain and upgrade Mercedes? An example BMW website would be BAVAUTO

*What are The Problems to look for and their clues?

* Where are the places that I should go for regarding detailed repair information. Example: I just learned about holding the reset key for 3+ seconds and it displays a number and value. I know 24 is the battery volts but I have no idea what the other numbers represent.

*Finally Mercedes Cultural niches within the community. Where are the typical trends to avoid or attach myself to?

>Example of what I would do:
*When I first Got it:
If I had just bought a BMW it would be an E30 325i or a classic pre 1974 2002 that I would start with flushing the radiator, oil and filter change to get 20-50w in to avoid oil leaks and checking the fusebox. Making sure to monitor Engine tempature and any exhaust smoke.

*Later On:
Eventually rebuild the engine. Making sure to check the ports and engine head for any stress or damage that comes from running hot (most likely having the head completely redone.) Not swap it for a 3 series strait 6 in the 2002 or 5 series s55 in the E30 because I am not an idiot that cares more about power and a bigger engine. Install a new larger radiator and thermostat because It's assumed they are garbage and need to be replaced anyway. Brake upgrade to steel and braided lines and slotted and drilled rotors.

When Everything is in order:
Lower it a tasteful 1-2 inches with bilstein coil-overs. Swap the 4 speed for a 1982 320i's 5 Speed. Black Paint and euro bumpers to replace the american running boards. 15 inch ronals with some p-zero rubber. And Finally full Remus Exhaust to insure people know I have wasted a lotta moneys and no girlfriend.



Any Info Helps I wanna get it registered and off my parents property.
Known Problems:

Keyfob needed to be fixed -Done. Re-soldered and macgyverd button replacement
Dead Battery - Replaced Battery, Afraid it is just the symptom of a larger problem
Power Steering squeal -Fixed? Added more Fluid because it was empty.
Radio code-Fixed, registered with Mercedes dealership and given Code according to VIN

Broken lower Windshield Plastic.
Dashboard Warning light saying Display (Coolant reservoir ICON) Pic Related
Dashboard Warning light saying Lamp (lightbulb) Defective. I am missing the right foglamp
Dashboard Warning light with ! Inside a triangle After Driving 8 miles. But has disappeared after a night.
Hydraulic Hood will not stay up and left side mount is broken. Currently Using Wooden Posts. Pic Related
 
See less See more
#6 ·
yep I am reminded of Andrew wk.

After I sold my 82 300d I my friend and I kept on reminiscing about it. The seat belt buckles were the perfect size to open beer bottles. When Driving up to LA the seats were so comfortable and it would just float on the freeway doing 95mph without breaking a sweat. Even to this day 10 years latter we still talk about it anytime we see one or talk about a new car we are getting. To quote him. "Damn it's expensive to be this bad" Once I have it registered and insured this Wednesday I think I will pay him a visit.


Currently the car is all cleaned up and tuned up. New oil/airfilter,oil, fuses, and trouble codes dealt with excluding the K1 and K2 codes. to quote hank hill
 

Attachments

#3 ·
-I had a coolant leak from the heater hose on the firewall. The smaller tube going to the heater element in the windshield fluid tank likes to break.
-Tail/brake light grommets will throw a code if they are not sitting right. Even if the bulb is fine.
-I had issues with the Abs/traction control triangle coming on intermittently, it was the brake switch.
 
#5 ·
What is the mileage? Do you have any maintenance records?
Any codes?
Replace immediately: All fluids and filters. Fluids to specs below.
Parts sites: AutohausAZ, Pelican Parts and many others. Part numbers at https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Mercedes-Benz Fluids at Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids: Engine Oil, Gear Oil, ATF, Coolant, Brakefluid
Problems and repairs: see stickies here, search, google.
Cultural niches: we are all nice.
Know problems - check OBD2 codes.
Check quiescent battery drain and charging (brushes and voltage regulator).
Hood struts are cheap and easy to replace - see parts sites.

Start separate threads for persistent problems for which you cannot find a solution.

Don't fix it if it is not broken.
 
#9 ·
It is sitting at 145xxx miles. Dash reads Lamp and Display errors. AC read out says K1 & K2 serial errors. It now has a new battery. All new fuses. MANN oil/air filters 5-30w castrol oil because I'm not a gullible communist who will be tricked into paying more for synthetic in an old car. Entire net set of fuses. Engine degreased and detailed to be able to monitor any fluid leaks. Tomorrow I bleed the brakes and flush the radiator. As well as recharge the AC and check for any pressure leaks. I think I am also going to get a new Cabin Filter.

If you can think of anything I should look for while doing that let me know.

Imma run that oil cycle for the first tank of gas. Then throw in a new filter and oil to get it on a regular cycle every 2500 miles. I am consider whether or not to throw in some 20-50w oil because of the mileage and age to combat any cover leakage but from what I have been told it might be too thick. Brakes and rotors are next.

I did however end up breaking what I assume is a vacuum line will gingerly detailing the engine bay.

I spent the first 24 strait hours binging on adderall and Mercedes source videos to get an idea of what I should look for. Once the important stuff is in order and I find a WIS manual Imma Finally decided where I intend on going with it before I commit to buying a suspension or exhaust set up.

Right now all I truly have decided is that it will ride on ronal wheels.

If it were a bimmer I would start with an engine swap to an 5 series engine ( and lowering it 2 inches with bilstin coil overs and wilwood brakes on the corners and replacing everything that that would en tale.



My buddy I got it from was a stereotypical gay when it came to cars. He had no Idea what was going on under the hood or about any of the quarks like the gastank. He just relied on people at work telling him what was wrong by his description of problems. After Questioning him about it all he knew was it ran on premium and squeaked when he drove it.

After the key stooped working he resisted from using anything electric for fear of it breaking. He did try and replace the fuses but once I got it home and did a quick inspection I found the fuses in there were already burnt out or the wrong ones in the wrong places. After a car history done on it I found out it was not serviced the entire time he had it or even years before he obtained it.

So he left everything to fester including but not limited to the keyfob. Which I had to learn on the fly after soldering it the night before. When at the gas station after spending 5 minutes searching like a mad man for the tank release I found a thread saying the doors had to be unlocked in order for it to open. He had no idea about it when I told him. He just always kept the car open because of the dead key fob. Who would have guessed the tank unlocks when the doors are unlocked.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Get a master key (non-remote key) from MB dealer. Cost is $30 or so, just to have a spare when your macgyverd key craps the bed. Will avoid an expensive tow to the dealer...very very very few locksmith can make keys for our cars.

Monitor the side of the engine, where the head meets the block and the timing cover....the headgasket likes to fail in that junction. Very common problem in the M104. My problem was that the car would leak oil like a sieve while running, and it was coming from that junction. Leaked a quart every 200 miles or so. See post #13 in that thread to find out where.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/2798690-1997-mb-e320-build-log.html

On a side note, MB is not like BMW where the plastic coolant hoses, radiators and et al break when you look at them the wrong way -- they are actually durable and can withstand some abuse. My 1998 E300TD has 286k on the clock and is (I assume) on the original water pump, radiator and coolant hoses. Try saying the same for any 1998 BMW.

Change all fluids, including the transmission and differential fluid if you havent done so, they're likely original.

Unplug the vacuum tube to the fuel pressure regulator and see if it leaks fuel out. If it does, its bad and needs to be replaced. You do not want to have fuel leaking into intake manifold....also a good fuel regulator will make the car easier to start and provide better top end power. I went from 3+ second cranking to damn near instant start when I changed fuel regulator.
 
#10 ·
Replace that vacuum line, it'll cause engine to buckle and surge. That is the vacuum line to the solenoid to actuate the secondary air valve.

There are not too many vacuum lines on this car -- there are a grand total of three of those lines, if memory serves me correctly. One is that broken one that goes to the solenoid in front of the timing cover, another is from that same solenoid to the secondary air valve (under the cover) and the third is the fuel pressure regulator line. Replace all of them.

There are other vacuum lines, but they're far thicker (1") -- two are right next to throttle body and serve as PCV lines, and the last one is for brake booster. The ones next to throttle body will need to be replaced if you ever move the intake manifold, they will be rock hard and break at the slightest touch.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top