I have a 2000 E430 with 147,000 miles. I'm getting ready to replace the AC compressor, Dryer/Receiver with new hose to Condenser, and refrigerant pressure sensor. The system quit cooling, the compressor clutch isn't engaging but getting 14 Volts (tested), I have error code 419 (electromagnetic clutch), and the compressor is leaking oil. No other leaks detected.
I've seen where some people don't replace the condenser, nor do they flush the condenser (a flush may be ineffective).
What is the general consensus regarding replacing the condenser when replacing the compressor? Thanks.
My take would be to replace it if its original. The condenser tends to accumulate debris both internally and externally.
You may also consider an expansion valve given all that is being replaced.
Skippy
The heavy dirt from compressor is ending in drier, that is why you should get new one and then fine dirt is catch by expansion valve filter.
That is why not much worry about getting new condenser.
It is just metal thing that doesn't wear out, is not getting chemical build-up (like radiators) so unless you suspect something (like driving over fresh tar film on repaired road), I would just blow the air both directions via it.
It can have a build up, if substantial moisture is introduced into the system. Moisture + oil + refrigerant forms sludge and corrosive acids. I am not sure if the MB condenser piping is serpentine style or parallel style, if parallel, flushing will not really be effective if done by non-professional equipment and chemicals. My vote is for replacement while you are at it. At least it would be one less unknown, if the a/c does not cool as it should, once everything is put together.
It appears that there may not be a general consensus regarding replacing the condenser when replacing the compressor. I didn't really want to dismantle the condenser housing, nor did I want to remove all of the coverings over the expansion valve.
There may not a consensus regarding replacing the expansion valve, either. However, there is a consensus that nobody wants to tackle replacing the evaporator coil.
In my case the evaporator had a leak and the compressor had seized.
The only thing not replaced was the hose leading from the compressor to the expansion valve. My figuring was that the effort to replace the evaporator coupled with whatever the seized compressor produced made reuse of the other items problematic.
While that car is no longer mine the A/C is functioning fine after 5 years.
Thanks SkippyJasper. I've decided to replace everything but the hose between the expansion valve/compressor and the infamous evaporator coil. I pulled off all the tuperware and wiper assembly to get to the expansion valve and took off the condenser fan/horn/cross brace to remove the condenser. There were no leaks around the expansion valve, but the condenser certainly looked it's age - 2000 E430.
I'm waiting on parts now. In the meantime will clean up the engine compartment and the plastic I took off. Won't pull off the condenser/compressor/hose/dryer/expansion valve until all the parts come in. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, again.
Condenser - This vehicle is equipped with a parallel flow design condenser. This type of condenser can not be properly flushed and must be replaced. Not replacing the condenser could lead to failure of your new compressor. Most mechanics are not up to date on their A/C training and will not know this condenser can not be properly flushed.
Note: Failure to replace the above parts will void your warranty.
Lol..............I saw that warning which came with my compressor.
I replaced my compressor and dryer/receiver last year because it seized from an oil leak. I took a chance thinking the dryer/receiver would capture any debris if there was any.
Thank you Mr. Boca. I saw a cross section of a similar parallel condenser and the channels in the condenser are minute. I knew that I couldn't effectively flush any debris or residue, so I ordered a new Behr condenser. When I dismantled the condenser/radiator housing and could get a good look at the condenser, I knew that I had made the right choice. In it's present condition, the original 18 year old condenser certainly would have negatively affected the performance/longevity of the (new) AC system. The condenser was pretty accessible compared to the expansion valve.
I would also recommend anyone replacing a compressor/receiver-dryer to also replace the condenser. Thanks, again.
The new Behr condenser arrived today, the first part of many. Wow, what a difference in external appearance between the old and new. If the external condition of the old condenser is any indication of it's internal condition, it needed to be replaced. Of course the condenser shroud crumbled in a few places, so I ordered a replacement for that, as well. Part #210 500 08 16, $67.73, PartsGeek.
With all these new parts, and after you follow the proper instructions for introducing the right amounts, and type of oil into the system, vacuuming for leak tests and removing moisture, and filling it with the correct amount of refrigerant by weight (about 1 kilogram or 35 ounces), you will have the coolest air in town .
Do, keep us informed with your progress, and the sensor readings after
If you buy a used car with some years and mileage on it, and have no maintenance on the history, there is no way of knowing if the previous owner had used a refrigerant with sealers. You can have a parallel core condenser with bottom 40 percent plugged, and the a/c will still "work". It will be harder on the rest of the cooling system. In places like South FL, when you have the a/c running most of the year to remove high moisture and hot air in the cabin, you want to make sure your system is in top condition.....
Mr. Boca, do you know how much PAG oil needs to be added to the system? I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that the "over-priced" compressor will come with PAG oil in it.
I found the attached file regarding PAG oil fill levels. Thanks.
The compressor will come with the oil in it and the compressor specification should tell you the oil type and the amount. The correct oil level for the replaced compressor from your table is 120 milliliters, something like 4 fl ounces. You can completely drain the oil and add the correct amount. Of course you need to add extra oil for other the parts you replace (dryer, condenser, hose, etc.).
Have a look at the sticky which discusses the replacement of the condenser, and how the oil is introduced to the condenser. He also specified the oil Suniso 5GS that you could buy from the dealer. Note the torque and o ring lubrication recommendations.
I saw a DIY where the gentleman used a non-hygroscopic Behr oil:
Behr/Hella PAO ISO Grade 68 Synthetic, Nonhydroscopic. It comes in a 500 ml bottle.
I don't have a dealer near me so I ordered from AutohauzAZ: Behr Refrigerant Oil; PAO-Oil 68 AA1 Plus UV, 500ml Bottle.
It is synthetic, has the UV leak detection dye in solution, and it doesn't attract H2O, which should be a plus given the age of the evaporator.
Interestingly, I've seen this word spelled two ways in product briefs: Hydroscopic and Hygroscopic. I believe that "Hygroscopic" is the correct word and spelling to describe something that is resistant to absorbing/attracting water.
The MB specification I believe calls for PAG 46, and that is what you probably have in your system. I would not know how PAO 68 will mix with oil left in your system, or the effect of a higher viscosity. Also would you change the amount requirements knowing that the PAO will not mix with water or refrigerant and nearly all of it will stay in the compressor ? The specified values are for the specified oil type and viscosity.
Thank you, Mr. Boca. I have cancelled the order for the 68 POG oil before it shipped and have re-ordered two 250ml bottles of the Fuchs 46 PAG oil. Obviously, I'm a newbie to this AC stuff, your advise is greatly appreciated.
I suppose I could start pulling off the old parts and cover the evaporator connections air tight while I wait on parts to come in. If I tried to disassemble and then reassemble/replace everything in the same day, I'm likely to run out of patience before I run out of time.
The project is finished and I have cold air! Pulling off the AC components wasn't too difficult. The majority of time and effort was removing and reinstalling all the parts to get to the AC components; namely the expansion valve and the condenser.
Thank you, Mr. Boca, for your advise.
I do have one adjustment to make: the wiper is now "resting" at 2:00 o'clock on the windshield. It completes the full 180 degrees when activated, but the resting or stationary position is off. When I was cleaning and oiling the linkage of the wiper assembly during it's removal I must have mis-oriented something. How do I adjust the wiper assembly so that the blade rests horizontally?
For the wiper rest issue just check the link out below. I am sure you will not have the tools but it does show how to correct the rest position by loosening the 10 mm bolt at the firewall, and something to prod the wiper motor base.
Yes, I saw that Sticky, thank you. My issue was a little less complicated. In a quiet moment I thought about what I had done to the wiper assembly when I removed it and cleaned/greased it. I had removed the 13 mm nut from motor drive axle so that all of the linkage could more easily move and provide easier access. When i replaced the nut on the drive axle, the wiper head was out of alignment with the "home" position.
To fix my alignment issue, I removed all of the plastic covers and the wiper assembly (again) and removed the 13mm nut from motor drive axle. This let me adjust the position of the wiper head to the "home" position. I then put everything back together (again) and tested the wiper - it did it's magic and returned to the proper home position. Lesson learned.
I thought I was done. AC was blowing cold. Then the receiver/dryer hose connection at the condenser started to leak - puddle of oil and refrigerant lost. Once the leak started, there was no stopping it. Not blowing cold or even cool. Found the leak easily. I had pinched the O ring in the connection and it lost integrity.
Replaced the O ring, now pulling a vacuum. Ordered a Mastercool Oil Injector #82375, it will be here tomorrow. That'll give me time to check the vacuum overnight.
So, tomorrow evening or the next day, I'll add 3 fluid ounces of PAG 46 oil and recharge the system with 34 ounces of refrigerant.
Another lesson learned.
Thanks.
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