Originally Posted by Jeremy Clarkson
I just want to make sure that I have everything down. If I choose to do a rebuild go for the front and rear seals, All of the clutch friction plates, but it looks like it would only be sold in the entire packs.
When you say bushings you mean the bearings in each of the kX drums?
Are all of the friction disks mandatory?
I am also curious why replace the torque converter if this one is working. What's the difference between this one and updated one?
Sorry for all the questions. I am seriously considering it, when I changed the transmission fluid I noticed a few tiny little pieces in the oil about 10k ago, reading watching reading up the link you posted up in this forum and the manual I think it may have been a few rollers from one of the bearings (probably K2 since that seems to be the most common failure). It seems like a cool project.
in the attached picture is what I would need to replace (I didn't highlight all of the clutches and all the rubber seals because they are a little more obvious I think. Is there anything I missed or mislabeled?
I understand your concerns, and questions. Ask all you want...
A)All of the clutch friction plates, but it looks like it would only be sold in the entire packs.
No, You can buy them in singles, yet a bit tricky to see them correctly without looking at the section drawing(cut-in-half drawing-Page 8 in the revised ATSG manual). I would go this route.
To get the correct count without opening the transmission you need to know what 722.6 you have. Need to know the "XX" in the 722.6XX. You can do this by crawling under the car and reading the stamp marking an inch or two above the pan near the dip-stick pipe, or look at the EPC data print out of your car.
B)When you say bushings you mean the bearings in each of the kX drums?
Their are three bushings:
1) The bushing(Pump Bushing) right behind the front seal Part 034
Sonnax Pump Bushing - 68004-01
2) The bushing on the end of the stator Part 037
Sonnax Rear Pump Stator Bushing - 68915-01
3) The K2 Bushing bearing(Must replace this-No-If's-And's-Or-But's on this one) Part 038
Sonnax Input Shaft Bushing - 68410-01
Get the pressure regulation spring too
Sonnax Regulating Pressure Control Valve Spring - 68942-01
I have bought these from these guys:
Mercedes transmission parts,TransmissionpartsUSA.com
I have coupon code for 15% off code DEAL15
for the month of May
This parts USA may be cheaper that Wittrans for everything. Now, the torque converter is made by CVC Torque Converters, and distributed by Wittrans Only!!! They are About $200 for a rebuilt with your old core that have the Sonnax Updates.. Here are the locations of the Wittrans Offices:
Torque Converters Distributors Page - Consolidated Vehicle Converters, Remanufacturing Torque Converters for Automatic Transmissions
4) The Bonded Piston Part 967
5) K1 Sprag Part 658 - Page 61 of the revised manual, and you will need the 20 Element x 0.845 Height
6) K2 Sprag Part Second-Photo Part 654 - Page 61 of the revised manual, and you will need the 20 Element x 0.845 Height
C) Are all of the friction disks mandatory?
No, but at 200k transmission it is logical to replace them, but the critical ones are K3 & B1 clutch pack, and B3 if you have to reverse out onto a road for work, any other repetitive routine.
D) I am also curious why replace the torque converter if this one is working. What's the difference between this one and updated one?
Al Savage posted the reason why get the updated on, but the real reason for me is it contains frictions inside, and it gets "pulsed on" from 2nd to 5th gear, so you-bet-you those frictions inside are WORN.... See the section drawing(Page 8 on the Revised ATSG Manual) with shift truth table showing what frictions are on for a particular gear.
E) I noticed a few tiny little pieces in the oil about 10k ago, reading watching reading up the link you posted up in this forum and the manual I think it may have been a few rollers from one of the bearings (probably K2 since that seems to be the most common failure). It seems like a cool project.
The tiny chunks of friction material can come from anywhere, but I think they are K3,B1,B3, or inside the torque converter. Sadly your generation of transmission DOES NOT have a roller bearing for K2 bearing, but from past conversations on the W210 forum. Al Savage pointed out the E300 Diesels have a four-pinion output shaft part 580(second photo) like the V8/V12. +2000 E and S class trannies have the updated K2 bearing, and in my book I would updated the shafts to a ball bearing form a +2000 car as I have done this to my 98 W140. I have 2003 W220 internals inside my W140, but I have never done a Diesel, so do not know the outcome.
It is a very messy/soggy project, so you need a nice hard surface. I have a nice 1" thick phonolic table top made of solid Bakelite(weighs a ton....). A Formica table top, some stainless table top will do.
F) in the attached picture is what I would need to replace (I didn't highlight all of the clutches and all the rubber seals because they are a little more obvious I think. Is there anything I missed or mislabeled?
If you download the old ATSG 722.6 manual-There are three manuals, and the third is the Chrysler one too. The old ATSG manual says the clutch count per the "XX" of the 722.6XX(on page 9 and 10), and from page 4 of the old one a E300 has either a 722.608 or 722.600. The .608 has more frictions over the .600
The other things of replacement:
1) Six new 13mm torque converter bolts
2) New output shaft nut
Now, the 722.6 does not have lip-seals like a 722.3-722.5 which is a pain to install on every drum, but take a look at this thread on the "what else I need"
The goal is get "dead-on" close to the minimum gap friction/steel spacing as the closer the gap is to spec the less time it takes to get into gear-The less Fill-Cycles. It is all about those fill cycles...
You may have to buy new sized spring clips to get the gap right-on to the minimum spec, and I would move Heaven and Earth to be right at the minimum number for clutch packs K3(Specially K3),B1 & B3
In your shoes, you can buy the Seal Kit(From Wittrans or RockAuto), and buy the individualized BorgNWarner frictions, (or Mercedes Frictions)
For K2 bearing Bushing their is a specialized extractor tool which works like a charm, and is sold by Harbor Freight as a set
I know fed you enough info to make your head spin, and I know you will have questions... Swallow this slowly
All the best,