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1997 MB E320 build log

14K views 64 replies 6 participants last post by  Deplore 
#1 ·
Well, I managed to source a decent little E320 for a little money.

This is going to be a project car for me and I'll be using this thread to document all work done to it as I go on.

Right now immediate goal is to restore to how it was before the neglect set in. This will be a long project, because not only do I have to do some engine work, I also have to do interior work too. I have a lot of things to say about the previous owner, and very few of them good.

After the car passes smog, then my next step will be sourcing a complete manual trans from either a M104 manual C280 (import from UK or something) or use the weaker manual trans from a W203/R170 C230/SLK230 kompressor. Driveshaft has to be modified/fabbed in both case.

If all goes well and the manual works, then next step is to source a wrecked C36 AMG and pull the engine, or find it online and plop it in. But that's months away at the very least.


As it stands, she needs:

--headgasket -- has the infamous oil leak at the head/block
--full tune up (spark plugs, all fluids changed, etc)
--#2 coil swapped with a spare, fixed a misfire
--P0450 fuel tank pressure sensor -- the little bugger is integrated into the fuel level sender. Thanks MB
--two "new" seats -- meaning junkyard or parts out car with seat leather that isn't cracking
--headliner is sagging badly. needs to be glued back in
--AC control module glitching out. Needs to be replaced
--cluster bulbs need to be changed. Previous owner took out the check engine light bulb, how cute.
--the horrendous aftermarket alarm and the aftermarket phone system wiring needs to be ripped out. The alarm is bad and is causing a battery drain, and the aftermarket phone system that splices into the factory phone wiring is shoddily done. Not impressed.
--windshield cracked

Oy vey.

Headgasket being done this weekend, hopefully smog will be done next week, assuming the previous owner didn't drive on a misfiring cylinder 2.
 

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#3 ·
Hah, unfortunately it's transmission only, and beside, given the nature of electronics, I can only take the engine from a 1997 C36. 96 and prior use the HFM engine management and thus have a little bit of wiring that's different. Sensors are different as well, plugs don't match up. 97 uses the new ME 1.8/2.0 engine management software, and then it's all groovy.

Thank you for looking out! :)
 
#6 ·
misfire #2 fixed. Culprit was a bad coil and spark plug boot. Swapped both, now buttery smooth.

On an amusing note: I love me a balanced engine.

It needs engine and trans mount....but even with bad mounts its still smooth enough that I can rev the engine all the way to redline and the leaning tower of flashlights and socket bits won't topple over. :D
 

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#7 · (Edited)
Streamlight Stingers. I own three (and around seven NiMH battery "sticks").

I recall working in a garage with a mechanic who bought one, back when they were $100. I sort of ridiculed him, "no flashlight is worth $100" etc.

But I found myself borrowing it repeatedly.

Finally, after a few months, I bought myself one too. Now I have two at work, one in house, one in garage.

I hate LED flashlights, the glare and the awful spectrum hurt my eyes after just a minute; the Xenon (?) lamp in these is very nice.

I dropped one of mine onto hard floor from 8' ladder Sunday. It knocked the lamp loose, but still no problem with the filament, just plugged it back in and back to work!

I had a melted lens on one . . . mailed it Santa Clara, they repaired it and shipped it back -- no charge.

I think my oldest is now 13 years old.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yep, I love me some streamlight flashlight. One was a regular halogen flashlight I managed to get for free at a swapmeet -- it was broken. I bought an LED attachment from the SnapOn truck that comes by (~$40) and a brand new OEM battery off ebay for $20 and presto, working flashlight!

Bought the other one for ~$100 off another swapmeet, this time with a bunch of freebies thrown in...charger, battery charger, car charger, attachment holder, blahblah. I love those flashlights. I dropped one of them a while ago and I tried to catch it with my foot. Let's just say that next time I let it drop to the floor.

---

Since @MAVA asked and since I was already going to do it, I'll post up the (semi-legible) headgasket DIY.

Unfortunately, I am not good with DIY guide for the beginners -- since a headgasket is already a very involved job tantamount to open heart surgery, and the consequences of a botched job can be very high...so I won't tell you what tools you need, what you need to do, etc. You already need to be familiar with basic mechanics. I won't be responsible for you being late to work, getting fired and causing thermonuclear war.

Disclaimers out of the way:

You need to have everything you need prior to doing the job, including the replacement parts on hand. Since my memory is fresh, I'll start. I had...

  • new MB headgasket
  • valve cover gasket kits
  • timing cover gasket
  • black RTV silicon
  • 6 new spark plugs ($1.30 each at the dealer...why not?)
  • thermostat (not needed for this job, mine was old)
  • new coolant (I used 1 gallon MB coolant, $20)
  • oil, oil filter, et al
  • 14x new headbolts, bought from autohausaz....you don't need to do it if the old headbolt is still within specification, but I elected to replace it anyway)
  • two new hoses under intake manifold (pics below)

Now, prepping the car. There are three different ways to do the headgasket job.

1. Remove exhaust manifolds, remove intake manifold, then remove head.
2. Disconnect exhaust tubes at the manifold, remove intake manifold, remove head.
3. Disconnect exhaust tubes at manifold, disconnect intake manifold at the two intake rubber boots and two hoses, remove head with intake/exhaust manifolds as 1 piece.

I elected to do #2 as I didn't want to fiddle around in the tight spot for too long.

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Here the car is already prepped. What I did:

--removed spark plugs
--removed all wirings from top and side (MAF, air pump, all coils, all injectors, cam sensor, variable cam timing solenoid, solenoid in front, map sensor, ECT sensor, two knock sensors, throttle body, oil sensor, diverter flap, and possibly one more I forgot) -- you need to be able to pull all the wiring out so there is no additional wirings going through the intake manifolds.
--remove vacuum line to the air pump valve, to the solenoid to the intake, and the return fuel line to the intake manifold
--disconnected the exhaust at the manifolds flangs. The exhaust manifold will come up with the head.
--drained oil
--drained coolant
--removed serpentine belt. you'll see why later
--removed the fan from the fan clutch. I was lazy and didn't want to jury rig a fan clutch holder tool, so I just removed the fan to make room.

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Here's another shot with all the wiring moved to one side, and fuel rails removed.

Note: If you're as lucky (or unlucky, depending on perspective) as I am, you'll find that the bolts holding to the fuel rail and intake manifold are in a very bad position and even with correct tools (they're all 6mm insocket hex) you will strip most of them. Luckily, the bolts are a very common size, so a trip to the local hardware store will net you a replacement hardened bolts with hex or torx heads that will resist rounding off. I paid $14 for 9 bolts and washers at my local hardware for grade 8 bolts.

In my case the bolts were so rusted in place it was inevitable that I was going to strip them. In which case I stripped them first, then used a torx bit of slightly larger size then hammered that into it, then removed and replace the bolt.

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When removing the intake manifold, you are supposed to remove these two hoses. Unfortunately, age and heat only serves to make these two hoses as hard as brittle biscuit, so when trying to unplug them -- especially with that devil clip fastener -- makes them break apart. Since I already anticipated that, I just pulled the intake manifold straight out. Both hoses are damaged, you can see the bits left on the intake manifold, the other one developed a long thin crack that isn't visible on camera.
 
#9 ·
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Now, the alternator needs to be removed. You don't need to unplug and remove the alternator completely out of the car -- just enough to remove the timing chain tensioner. I moved the alternator slightly to the back and left it lying there. Hope you had the foresight to disconnect the battery!

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See the black coolant hose that goes to the aux pump? That needs to be removed. Not at the section going to the aux pump, but the other section that goes to the thermostat.

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Remove the valve cover. Yay! Now you're 40% into it.

In the next section I will talk about upper timing cover removal.
 
#10 ·
I'm sorry that I never took a picture of my process, but I will attempt to describe what I did. I only have the aftermath pictures.

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After you remove the large 12 or 13?mm hex bolts on the timing cover (there are six, I think) -- but the timing cover is still in place. There is a timing chain guide pin thats wedged in the side and ordinarily you'd need a special MB tool to pull the slide pin out.

This is covered by a small inhex bolt, I think it was 5mm? You pull that small bolt off, and there is the timing chain guide pin in all of its non-visible glory.

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I stole this picture from the intertube.
Here's what it looks like with the timing cover removed. You might be able to remove the timing cover with it in place, but I chose not to do it. I removed the pin out first, then timing cover. You need some sort of pin pulling tool, can be homemade with a bunch of hardware tools.

I'd like to think it takes a M6x10 bolt, but don't quote me on that. I bought this 3 years ago when I did my headgasket on my first 97 E320, so I don't remember what size they are.

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This is another stolen picture from intertube, this engine is a from a W126 500SEC something, but the principle is exactly the same for M104.

Put a socket over the hole, a washer over the socket, thread the bolt in, thread the nut in until it contacts the washer, then using a wrench just turn the nut counterclockwise. This causes the bolt to pull out the guide pin.

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#11 · (Edited)
Ah, now we get to the fun bit!

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First you need to put the engine at TDC. This is absolutely critical, failure to do so will cause the valves to kiss the pistons! This is an interference engine.

TDC is marked by 0|0, use a 27mm socket to turn the crank clockwise until the marking is at 0|0.

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That's not enough though, you also need to make sure the timing is within spec and cams are aligned properly before you take out the head.

Use white outs to mark the chain and sprocket, that way when you put the chain back, it'll be at the exact same timing as before.

Both cams have a small 4mm hole, and at TDC you should be able to lay a 4mm drill bit (or in my case, I used a straw from my WD40 spray can) flat on the head and it should slide right in the 4mm hole on both intake and exhaust cam. The drill bit/straw needs to lie completely flat on the head while inside the hole (hurr durr). This means timing is correct, the cylinder #1 is really at TDC.

If everything is horky dorky....then remove the timing chain tensioner. Remember the alternator removal? Now you need to remove the large inhex bolt (8mm?) to remove the spring inside. That removes the tension from the chain and then you can remove the camshaft sprocket.

If you're as anal as I am, you'd also remove the chain tensioner completely and replace it with a brand new one, again at autohausaz. I used the same 27mm socket used to crank the engine to remove the large tensioner body.

Then after tension is removed from the chain, you can now remove the 3 intorx bolts at camshaft sprockets, then slide chain off and hold it tight to the left by a shop wire or something.
 
#12 ·
Again, I didn't take a picture in this section, but you need to have the correct triple square bits to remove the head bolt. I think they're also called XZN sockets, M12 size. Hope you have a long breaker bar, it's going to be tough to crack it open.

You need to crack the bolts from outside in. ie, the two head bolts at the firewall, then 2 bolts at the front of engine, then next two bolt in sequence at firewall, and ever so on. After that they'll be finger loose so you can just unscrew them with your fingers, or attach the triple square bit to a drill so I could just expedite the removal and pick up in 1 move.

Since I'm working on my own, I like to cheat.

Enter... THE ENGINE HOIST!

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It is at this time you want to double, triple and quadruple check your head, make sure nothing is attached to it. The engine hoist doesn't care what it picks up. It will pick up the head, along with the engine, the car and with you along with anything and everything attached to it if you're not careful.

In my case I found out that I forgot to disconnect the coolant hose at the back of the head that goes to the heater core, forgot to unscrew the transmission dipstick hole from the head and disconnect the secondary air pump hose.

Fortunately I caught that before removing it.
 
#13 ·
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My head looks good! Except for the exhaust valves at cylinder 6, but I have no drivability concerns or compression issues, so I'll just let it go.

I used a razor to scrape all the old headgasket residue from the head so its clean for the installation.

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Here is the entire reason why I'm doing the headgasket.

Interestly enough, this is the revised headgasket, but it wore out again, enough that it started leaking oil. It was bad enough that I would see it dripping out with the car running. I had to fill in half a quart in the 100 miles I drove the car.

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And here's the engine in all its glory.

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Factory crosshatching visible on all 6 cylinders, that was good. What was not good, on other hand, was the black wear marks on all 6 cylinder walls at the near top. #5 and #6 were the worst. Unfortunately, it isn't much I can do beside complete tear down, so I just cleaned the block as best I could with a razor, cleaned a piston or two within reason (scraped off carbon deposits, mostly), wiped everything dry, blew shop air in all head bolt holes, blew all debris out, wiped it again.
 
#14 ·
Installation is the reversal of everything. Just put the new headgasket on top of the block (it has two/three guide pins on the block to hold it), double, triple quadruple check that everything is clean, dry and debris free before slowly lowering the head back down on the block.

Mind the timing chain guide rails! They're made of plastic and can crack from the weight of the head! Not that I would know or anything. Just uh, a tidbit you should be aware of.

clean the head bolt holes with shop air again, blow out everything, very lightly coat the new head bolts with new engine oil and then screw them in.

Torque is 55nm (41lb), then stage 1 is 90 degree, then stage 2 another 90 degree. You do this starting from the middle and expanding outwards.

Then timing chain gets back on the sprocket, (make sure the marks match the white outs!), tighten sprocket, put back the timing chain tensioner, etc.

When you put the upper timing chain cover, you need to add a dab of black RTV silicon to to both corners of the timing cover gasket and on the timing cover itself.

M104.992 / 95E320 Timing Cover Seal Replacement Steps and Pics - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

This kind fellow documented everything, so listen to him, lol.
 
#15 ·
And that concludes the headgasket DIY on the M104.

I took my time, and it took about a day and half. I prepped the car the day before, then the next day did the head gasket.

I estimate that it took me about 12-14 hours total to do it, and that was taking my time, lunch breaks, etc.

If this was a customer car, I would've gone the route #3, removing the intake and exhaust manifold with the head as a unit, replace anything that needs to be replaced along the way and be done with it in 8 hours or so.

Jonwhite99 dropped by while I was doing the job, and he was kind enough to give me a good gas tank sender (with integrated gas tank pressure sensor) and a new seat cover for my car! I appreciate that, thanks Jon!
 
#17 ·
You do, yes. I had a little rubber drill bit that I use to clean and surface the head and block, but my co-worker borrowed it as I didn't have one for this job, so I used a razor blade to smooth out the surface on both ends.
 
#19 ·
Correct, mine is something like that but designed for a drill, not air tool. It makes it easy to clean the surface without scraping or damaging the aluminum.

I also have a shop vac and shop air to really clean it all out afterwards, but in this case I only used a razor and shop air.
 
#21 ·
You only machine the head if the straightedge tells you to . . . of if there's a corrosion issue.

3M Rolocs come in various grades. I forget which is which but I stock white, yellow, and green. One is ideal for iron, other for aluminum. Using the right Roloc for the material, they do a really nice job of removing all debris.

I dislike using abrasives (various sandpaper-like tools) because it's impossible to make certain you remove it all from the cylinders. Razor scrapers are nice for the large stuff. I've used chemical gasket remover on a couple of tricky projects. But I seem to keep coming back to the Rolocs.
 
#23 ·
A decent introduction to Rolocs:

I use a right-angle die grinder, rather than the straight one in the video above. The right-angle version gives a lot more control for this kind of attachment.





They are also available in Scotchbrite-like discs. Avoid these for any work around cylinders because the bits of abrasive are difficult to remove completely, even with a vacuum. They work fine for things like intake manifolds etc. where there are no crevices to hold the waste abrasive.


 
#25 · (Edited)
I bought one of these Grizzly right angle air die grinders about 12 years ago and it's worked well through several projects. At $30, it's not heirloom quality but it's a step up from HF.




A box of Rolocs cost more than the die grinder to drive it!

I prefer this right-angle version to the straight version: the tool does not grab and try to walk away with you as easily, you have more control. Also, it's easier to use it for tight areas. For example, the last time I used it was last year: I replaced the water pump on my Aerostar 4.0l. I could barely see the gasket surface on the timing cover, and I tried the razor blade scraper first, but using this right-angle die grinder and the soft Roloc worked very easily.

You do want to be careful to use the softer Rolocs for soft metals like aluminum, as they can remove material fairly quickly.
 
#26 ·
My preferred method of using the roloc is in three stages.

Stage 1. Razor everything
Stage 2. Roloc pass 1...just a quick grind, no passing over areas
Stage 3. A little bit slower, covering everything of importance, but still not passing over areas I went over

Then vacuum, wipe, shop air, vacuum and air repeatedly until it's clean enough to eat, then it's done.

Mind you, this is for head gasket job. All others don't need time be so thorough.
 
#27 ·
Today I replaced....

--diff fluid. Old fluid was rank, as usual.
--engine mounts
--transmission mount
--changed coolant again, after the car dumped out all coolant because a three way tee coolant line broke off at the firewall.

This is the part where I curse the previous owner -- apparently this tee line broke off before, and instead of replacing it he just shoved the hose further in and cranked the worm gear to the max, which made it even more brittle and when I did my first WOT pull, it broke off.

It's about this time that I learned that the M104 can limp along and stay cool from the residue coolant in the engine block, provided you never go past 20 mph. I was not trilled to test my headgasket so soon after.

For reference, this tee line is very very similar to the infamous three way tee line in W140, and it's made out of the same plastic too. Ugh.
 

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#28 ·
Yesterday I replaced the AC module, it was acting oddly. When I first started up the car, all lights on the AC module would flash on and off and I couldn't select anything on it. Few minutes after that it would go back to normal -- or what passed for "normal". Secret menu did not work. AC did not engage at all. Fan only blew 1 speed.

Connected SDS and reading through sensor data it said outside ambient temp was -82F and interior ambient temp at -152F. Only the evaporator temp was actually at the correct temp (ambient 80F, evap showed 92F, this was correct since the car was in the sun prior to my query), all other sensors showed inflated numbers.

Swapped the AC module from a junkyard car, I think it was a facelift. Everything worked after that, but still no AC. Refrigerant bar pressure was at 0 as per AC module.

I pulled a vacuum on the AC system, left it for a day (had lots of work) and next day the system still held vacuum....so I charged 2.2lb as per tech data.

Now AC is Toyota cold. I'm so happy. Let's see how long it lasts.

In the meanwhile, I found out that the aux fan is bad. It will need to be replaced.
 
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