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WIS Help, please ? Re Wagon Outer Rear LCA @ wheel carrier bushing disasembly steps..

2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  brian.vanbaush@gmail.com 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello Guys:

Can anyone with the WIS or Star system help on this ?

2000 w210 Wagon with Self Leveling System.

In process of disasembly to R&R the failed / worn Outer Lower REAR'Control Arm Bushing' aka Wheel Carrier 'squeek joint' - or 'clunk joint' or 'buy new rear tires every 5k miles joint'.

This is the one that is pressed into the wheel carrier, and must be pressed out either with a home made tool or MB tool or ZDMAK's tool, etc.

Then the outer lower control arm bolts thru this part, connecting the wheel carrier.

There's lots of talk & some tutorials online about this wear prone part (MB # 204.352.00.27) but the ones with pictures are always for the w124 earlier chassis, and the same exact steps aren't working here.

I've got the bolt loose, but it goes forward and runs out of room to fully remove from the hole, against the wheel carrier portion.

The step of lowering the control arm with a jack isn't separating the two.

I've also taken loose the sway bar link & both lower 'SLS hydraulic 'shock' bolts.

Not sure what else to do, hoping for some insight.

I plan to document with pictures a thread & also shoot a YouTube showing these steps.

There is currently no videos, anywhere, that I could locate showing this commonly worn part that the rear of all w210's have.

So, really appreciate the Tech help to any who can list those steps.

Kudos in Advance ! :eek

David in East Texas
 
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#2 ·
San's the actual hub carrier itself, the rear suspensions are the same as any other W210 - so whatever process is shown on the W124's works on R129's, W201's, W202's, R170s, etc. I've got the Merc tool so the entire process takes me 20 mins a side if I have the car in the air already - it really is an easy process.


Struggling a bit to follow here, sorry. So you've got the outer control arm to hub bolt loose and it's not removable because the wheel carrier is in the way? That couldn't work in assembly as if it won't come out, it wouldn't go in. My bet here - is your brake dust shield is bent out and needs to be bent back in to work the bolt out correctly.

The bolt, if I'm remembering right is removed towards the front of the vehicle and must be inserted the same way per MB.... so in case it works loose, it won't fly out.

Take a pic or two of where you're stuck now - might help
 
#3 ·
Ok got it figured out, so far.....another question, thank you

BSMUWK:

Thanks for your helpful reply.

i gave it another go, and got it apart.

What had me stalled was the bolt is a very tight fit, the flat of the 22mm head just scrapes the edge of the wheel carrier casting (where a link connects, I think).

So, I gave it another shot of PB Blaster and jacked up the LCA slightly, then hit the bolt forwards out of the hole using a large pin punch.

The LCA moved down & trapped the punch, so I jacked it up a bit & removed it, then lowered the jack & viola, the upper link / wheel carrier assy moved upwards enough to expose the bushing.

Totally trashed is the only description to use. Far worse than it looked earlier !

Its metal inner sleeve rotating within the outer, metal on metal with no rubber cushioning remaining.

No wonder the rear tire wear was so pronounced !

What's remarkable is the upper link arms, wheel carrier are totally tight, not a mm of play laterally.

Question: do I dare lower the jack under the LCA more ?

Now, its supporting the LCA, and there is some (how much ??) tension from the coil spring on it.

I just am wary of springs ! The 2 lower SLS Shock bolts are removed, so I guess the only thing holding the spring from going 'BOING' is the jack under the arm, correct ?

The only reason I have for asking is I was curious to see if there is any play in the Inner LCA bushing (hinge) joint.

And I don't want the spring to get loose, I don't have an MB spring compressor handy.

I really appreciate any help you can offer - sounds like you're no stranger to this job !

Cheers, David in East Texas
 
#10 ·
BSMUWK:Totally trashed is the only description to use. Far worse than it looked earlier !

Its metal inner sleeve rotating within the outer, metal on metal with no rubber cushioning remaining.
It doesn't have rubber cushioning, it's a spherical bearing not a typical suspension bushing, and the rubber bits you see trashed are only there to keep the grease inside/dirt outside of the bearing. Jeremy's pics of the 2043520027/2203520027:

 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Shoot a YouTube video of this for w210 variant ?

It should help to know the 'official' disassembly steps for this service procedure, so I can shoot a concise YouTube video.

On the thread on Peach Parts forum, there is shown in nice color pics, a similar R&R on a w124 e Class, and he says 'no need to remove lower shock bolt' as that helps keep the LCA, and thus the spring, in place:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...notes-r-r-outer-lca-bushings-w124-others.html

I wonder if that's also true on the w210 Wagons, with the HydroPnuematic SLS shock units ?

Thank you - David :smile
 
#5 ·
The rear springs are nowhere near as strong as the fronts. If you have everything disconnected from the LCA and start to lower it, you'll notice the spring get very loose. Either way, It's almost uncompressed with the car jacked up in the air. Usually, the sway bar/shock and knuckle portion are left bolted in and the inner bolt removed and the LCA swung down to do the springs, you have it the other way around, so it'll still swing down. I have the MB spring compressor and I never use it for the rear. Never used it on my customer cars, or my own. Waste of time lol

Should you have not undone the shock bolts/sway bar - Keeping the bolts in for the shock/SLS Shock will keep the control in place. All you'd have to do is the 22mm fastener and give the carrier a whack and it'll bounce up if the rest of the suspension arms are in good shape.


WIS only says, in very basic terms, "remove bolt" "use tool". Not very descriptive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
The rear springs are nowhere near as strong as the fronts. If you have everything disconnected from the LCA and start to lower it, you'll notice the spring get very loose. Either way, It's almost uncompressed with the car jacked up in the air. Usually, the sway bar/shock and knuckle portion are left bolted in and the inner bolt removed and the LCA swung down to do the springs, you have it the other way around, so it'll still swing down. I have the MB spring compressor and I never use it for the rear. Never used it on my customer cars, or my own. Waste of time lol

Should you have not undone the shock bolts/sway bar - Keeping the bolts in for the shock/SLS Shock will keep the control in place. All you'd have to do is the 22mm fastener and give the carrier a whack and it'll bounce up if the rest of the suspension arms are in good shape.

WIS only says, in very basic terms, "remove bolt" "use tool". Not very descriptive.
Reviving an old thread, not sure anyone is still out there but here goes. This thread is about replacing the OUTER LCA BUSHES. BSMUWK is confident and practiced in lowering the LCA in order to replace the outers without removing the spring provided the shock (SLS strut on our wagon), and other hardware remain attached. This appears to be true when replacing the INNER LCA BUSHES as well. Can anyone else comment before I take my life into my hands, pretty please with sugar on top?
 
#6 ·
Fabulous, great information to know.....one more thing....thanks

BSMUWK:

Thank you for sharing that.

I'll try that on the 'other side' to streamline things.

One question:

Can the new part be pulled into it's hole from the front towards the back ?

I'm attempting to line up the new bushing assy, using the M0085 ZDMAK bearing press tool.

Some posts made it sound like the part will only go in from back to front, but with this tool that seems awkward.

This is because to pull it in from the rear means putting the fat part of the tool - The bolt / receiver cup portion, towards the front of wheel carrier, where it is a bit tight.

If you reverse that and put the smaller 'nut' part of the tool forwards, then the fat part with the bolt then fits easily at the rear of the carrier where there's more room, so it sits flatter & bolt can be turned easier.

But that means pulling the bushing assy in from front, some posts insisted that won't work.

Which way is correct ?

Thanks a ton, your help is invaluable my friend !

David in East Texas :wink
 
#7 ·
The bushing gets extracted towards the caliper and inserted from the caliper end to front. The tool will be tight against the dust shield - even the Mercedes tool I use is touching it. Depending on the hub, they have a slightly beveled edge in the hub to guide the bushing on insertion. I don't recall if W210's have them or not, I did 2 different W210's a few weeks ago so I'm not sure why it's not ringing a bell. On initial removal, you'll be fighting the bushing a bit until you hear a loud crack, then it should move easily with every turn of the wrench. Use a ratcheting wrench if available to speed it up.
 
#8 ·
Hi, Guys.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I would like to know if this is an age related issue or more of a mileage/use issue. And can it be discovered without removing the parts mentioned?

I'm close to pulling the trigger on a 60,000 mile 2003 non-4 Matic wagon and I want to make sure I've had all of the typical problem areas examined ahead of time.

Not a DIY'er, so I have to pay for the repairs. bsmuwk, what would this typical repair cost at a non-dealer Indy shop? Presuming you don't work at a dealership.

Thanks in advance!

Lee
 
#9 ·
It's an environment related problem actually! Depending what sort of debris goes through and tears the rubber boots, water intrusion, etc. The more violent it's environment, the less they last. It's a metal sleeve which has a nylon encased metal heim joint in it. The more gunk that get's in, wears the nylon away and you get squeaks, sloppy alignment on load, or a bit of wandering at speed. You'd have to jack up the car and look with a flashlight to see if the rubber boots are torn on them. General rule, if they're torn they need replacing. If they're not, no worries.

They're not frequent replacements though. I had a 75k mile '96 S600 coupe in about a month ago (uses the same bushings) that had them totally destroyed on both sides - whereas the rest of the suspension was in 100% perfect shape...and I mean perfect.... That customer's car is one I enjoy as it's absolutely pristine above and below.

Well, depends on the shop. Book time on the bushings is something like 45 mins a side. So whatever the shops rate is x1.5 plus parts. I charge an hour + parts as I do them fairly quickly.

Lemforder, Corteco, or Mercedes for the part. I use Lemforder. They're under $30 a piece (MB is $50) on Pelican, ECS, or AutohausAZ.
 
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