does anyone know what size the bolt is on the power steering reservoir? mine is either stripped or you have to have a special tool to get it out. it is a female Torx it looks like, but I think the edges may be rounded
. Thanks, could a mod move this for me?You may be better served by the folks on the W210 forum, as the power steering pumps on the 190/190E/190D are different than yours.does anyone know what size the bolt is on the power steering reservoir? mine is either stripped or you have to have a special tool to get it out. it is a female Torx it looks like, but I think the edges may be rounded
. Thank you, I went and bought a right angle drill last night, gonna cardboard the radiator and hope it fits. I also found my spring punch, that will work to make the pilot hole right?If the bolt's broken off, then remove the reservoir and take another picture.
If the bolt is broken above the surface, you have something to grab.
If not, then I start in with the tools: carefully center punch the broken bolt in the exact center of the bolt. This step is crucial to success. If you don't center punch exactly in the center, the subsequent steps can be much harder.
Use a right-angle drill and a jobber bit, center drill the bolt. I use an old Craftsman model, but here's another example of a right-angle drill motor:
Jobber drill bits are shorter than standard bits. If you can't find jobber bits, you can shorten a std. bit but it requires a grinder and patience. A Dremel #426 reinforced cutoff wheel and #402 mandrel (and lots of dipping the bit in cold water) works, but is slow.
Using the right-angle drill and a jobber bit, you can carefully (carefully!) center drill the broken bolt to a suitable size and use a standard bolt extractor. Unless it was cross-threaded or mounted with Loc-Tite RED, it should spin right out.
Alternatively, you can hand-shorten a left-handed drill bit. I use these a lot, and they work great. I see that even Harbor Freight is selling sets of them these days. If using a left-handed bit, you don't need to first drill the bolt through fully, but you do still need to carefully center your drill point.
I can't stress enough being careful to make your center punch point in the exact center of the bolt. If you have to later chase the hole larger (let's say, to install a thread insert, or remove a broken drill bit), having that hole even slightly off-center means a lot of time with a merig, re-sizing the pilot hole so the chase tap doesn't damage the casting. BTDT many times (I used to get handed these baskets cases a lot).
HTH
Wait how did you do that without damaging any electrical connections or wires? I would love to do the same thing but I don't see how it would be possible without the wires and connections getting soakedI am fortunate to live in an area that has do-it-yourself car washes. They have hot (or at least warm) soapy water under high pressure with a wand. I pull up in a bay, swipe my credit card (or insert lots of quarters), open the hood and spray away. $5 or $10 later, I can see metal where before only grease.
Wait a couple of minutes for the steam to subside, start engine, and the leak cannot hide.
It also leaves me a lot cleaner when I'm done working on the engine.