So my window regulator just failed on the left rear door of my car. The window regulator has already been replaced before by the previous owner and now it failed again with me.
I plan on replacing the regulator myself when I get the parts. In the meantime my car is parked outside (don't have a garage) and the window is a quarter of the way open and I cannot push it all the way closed. It seems to be hitting something or catching on something. It's 8pm and I don't want the window left open while the car is outside. How can I get the window up tonight?
Also what brand regulator should I buy? I see a genuine Mercedes for $131, a Meyle for $68, and a URO Parts for $38 all on autohausaz. I know URO has a bad rep so I will stay away from them. But what about the Meyle versus the gen Mercedes part?
Ok I was finally able to get the window up so at least it should be safe for now. But I could still use some help regarding which brand regulator to buy.
I replaced one on my car with a Dorman part few months ago and still working fine but I try to use the rear windows as low as possible. I recall some members here used Chinese ebay regulators but not sure about how it is holding.
I used a $39 purchased off Ebay about 4 years ago and it is still functioning well.
I replace a right rear unit which had failed in a 2002 E320 4matic. Price wasn't
a factor because the OEM MB was the most expensive yet notoriously prone
to failure. The reports from the various forums were anecdotal and didn't
seem to highlight any more reliable manufacturer. The installation was simple
enough that having to do the job again, if needed, would be painless.
Another thing I remember doing during installation was to lightly apply silicone
lubricant on some areas though some have advised against using any lubricant
at all.
I should mention that since the majority of the rear window regulators seem
to fail in the same place, I have a couple of the so-called green thing (mentioned
in the STICKY) prepped and ready to go for next time.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I figured since the OE part continues to fail, then I might as well get an aftermarket one and see how it goes. Do you know if the rivets for the rear door are the same rivets for the front door?
i didn't even use rivets even though I had them to use. for some reason, I used
machine screws, locking washers and loctite instead. i think in my mind, it
allowed me to position the regulator assembly loosely and ensure its function,
jiggle a little here and there before tightening it down. so it came down to
nitpicking steel vs aluminum
The original rivets on mine were steel so that's what I bought when I had to replace my regulator. But steel rivets are almost impossible to pop with an ordinary cheap hand rivet gun. I managed to do one but broke the rivet gun in the process. So, off to the hardware store for a new gun and some aluminum rivets which installed easily.
I use a $20 ebay regulator on both of my W210's. Given how often they fail -- even the OEM ones -- I elected to just replace the regulator every year if I have to. So far, on my (then sold) 97 I was pushing 2 years on ebay regulator, on 98 couple months or so.
Bought an inexpensive one on e-bay ..deutschepartsusa. $31.00 delivered. Think they are all from China. Was surprised how nice it was for the money ... There seems to be two different styles .. I liked this one better. I used aluminum rivits with backing washers -- no problems. Getting the tool from HF ($7) is a great help getting the door panel off without snapping the white clips holding it on.
What is that tool called? I already have an 11 piece plastic trim removal tool set. But if there's a tool that would make the job even easier, I might just get it.
Hi Hamada -- It is an easy job .. especially after s or 4 of them.
I had to do the W203's .. naturally, when I decided to sell it. MB has a $20 fix for those that does not require removing the regulator - but it's the same type of cheap plastic part.
i dont recall seeing this at HF but I happen to have this nifty tool. works great
for those plastic type rivets used around the trunk liner. no reason why they couldn't work on the doors too
i have a set of those plastic pry bars/hooks too
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