MY01 E430, 202K: Yesterday, the ABS and /BAS/ESP warning lights came and stayed ON, when I started the car in the morning - I don't recall them coming on for the E after stuff was "fixed" under warranty many many years ago. Based on experience on this vehicle and my ML, I took the car for my typical BAS/ESP and ABS ride check. I involves finding a clean, safe, unused mass of pavement and slamming on the brakes on will as hard as I can. Front left (driver's side) locked for sure, with absolutely no ABS pumping. That got me concerned - ABS pump, maybe and $$$$$$$ flashing in my head at this point:eek. Repeated the ABS check scenario 5 times and got same result. At this point, I calmed down, pulled into drive way, shut car off, did my morning chores (in my mind, expecting that magically, the problem would go away). And it did go away when I restarted the car and went through the same routine as I did when the warnings came on. To make matters more confusing, the display says "NO MALFUNCTION." So, please, everyone, just tell me everything is OK - I do not like when problems self solve. Thanks.
No, it's not okay. You have an intermittent problem. Put it on a diagnostic system (not the generic auto parts store version but a real SDS) and read the stored code. The W210 has approximately 50 error codes for the brakes sub-system. It'll point you to the wheel, the sensor, and even the electrical wire.
I agree. I hope it is not the electrical wire. I have a code reader but I need to get a connector for the socket in the engine bay. But with the display showing NO MALFUNCTION, what code is stored? Will the real SDS do better?
MY01 E430, 202K: And it did go away when I restarted the car and went through the same routine as I did when the warnings came on. To make matters more confusing, the display says "NO MALFUNCTION." So, please, everyone, just tell me everything is OK - I do not like when problems self solve. Thanks.
Correct. After the post test, no warnings are on. It seems like nothing ever happened and I was dreaming all of this. But you make a good point about the batteries. It is MY01 and I am on battery #2 or 3, I don't recall. But based on my 05 ML experience with similar BAS/ESP issue, you may be on a good path here - I just recently replaced the ML battery and that seemed to have resolved the problem BAS/ESP/ and ABS issue (in my engineering mind). But the BAS/ESP popped on a few weeks back (this is the ML we are talking here). My scanner still tells me that the particular code is due to mileage was back when - meaning, it seems that the code is due to stored data I thought I had completely cleared a while back. I do not have a 36 ping connector the E - I'll get one soon - so, for now, I can't get the proper codes out.
I think what I am trying to say is that even with the NO MALFUNCTION on the dash, can I still pull malfunction codes out? I can take to my indie to get the codes.
When I had BAS malfunction, I got typed message on the cluster.
So first question is first. How old are alternator brushes?
Than even malfunction light went out, the codes have to be stored in car memory.
SD scanner can still read it.
And how old is the battery, what are the battery voltages before and after the start ?
If the battery voltage is down, it will set the ABS /ESP lights, and the modules need retraining over driving for sometime. If the battery is charged up next time the lights will go off upon ignition. Kajtek1 has a point that a marginal alternator may not fully charge the battery especially when other accessories are used, and at some point you will get the BAS light turned on at startup.
Actually, I've done better then the Homer. I'm relaxed and loving her a lot. 3 Years ago all suspension bushings and tie rods were replaced. She just has all springs/shocks redone/on all four corners, redid the instrument cluster, new tires (Conti Summer Rubbers) last summer, no winter driving, washing basically biweekly, and whenever possible, oil changes on SRS schedule, tranny service done twice, pegging the needle at 90 whenever I have a chance (I hope law enforcement in my region is not reading this). I have done all the front light harness replacement using MB parts. She really sings sweet. AND, I just gave her a new OEM 3-pointed star after someone broke the original. So, how much loving does she need? Maybe she is mad that I had my daughter driver her a few times using a learner's permit. Or, maybe it is because actually drove her to the dealer in a failed attempt to trade for a E63 - that is a pissing contest, I must admit. But I never gave her up, not even for a E63. That must count for something:frown
You can talk to Deplore for specific, but per my observation all codes are stored indefinitely till you clear them.
I had 2 cars scanned and even they did not have any problems for last year, each one come with 30-40 stored codes.
W211 remembers that my seat limit switch malfunction months earlier.
W210 come with bunch of codes that I believe were from PO 8 years earlier.
Kajtek is correct, most cars will store the codes. I believe only Ford, Chevy and one other manufacturer actively deletes the code if it doesnt detect the conditions that triggered it in the first place after so many drive cycles.
Basically what I'm trying to say is...anytime a condition occurs that would trigger any sort of warning lights will show a code. Stored, pending, current or otherwise, but it will store it. The only exception is intermittent problems.
Basically my long winded explanation is.... yes the codes will be stored and you can pull them out if you have the 38-pin adapter and a scanner capable of connecting to W210.
I don't think early Carsoft with the 38pin adapter displayed the codes associated with bad ABS system. I remember getting them read at an Indy with Xentry. Hard to use the codes to narrow to the actual problem. Turned out to be the ABS pump. Cost under $60 for one pulled from a wreck, but otherwise would have been $$$.
My car will sometimes throw the ESP/BAS error on the dash when starting in very cold conditions. I have a STAR SDS C3 scanner and while the car does store a code, it doesn't point out a cause for the error, I believe it's related to low current when cranking the engine over in cold conditions. I've been experimenting and find that if I turn the key to pos. 2 without starting, wait a sec for the electronics to turn on, THEN start the engine, I've yet to get the error. I'm talking 1.5-2 sec delay, and no error, no need to shut it off and restart. This has worked numerous times when cold starting the car at -30C and worse. Problem solved in my mind.
It could be your ABS pump. As I understand it, the system runs the pump briefly at start up just to ensure it is ready to run when needed. The pump is a small DC motor with brushes and when they age, the motor does not always run. Then you get an error. Cold weather couldno doubt have an effect. I, at times, used to hit my pump with a piece of wood while my wife turned the key and then the lights would not come on! Eventually new pump solved problem. On 98/99 the pump is a sealed unit. Some later Benzes had pumps that could be dismantled and new brushes installed.
I had a similar problem recently, and it was a resolved by replacing the brake light switch located by the brake pedal under the dash (~$10 new on amazon). It has 2 pairs of contacts: one operates the brake lights, the other -- abs circuit. This is a common issue, but may or may not be what's causing it in your case.
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