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Newbie to Diesel needs help starting issue 1999 E300TD

21K views 147 replies 14 participants last post by  Digmenow 
#1 ·
Hi everyone! I am new to the Benz world, I just purchased my first Benz 3 days ago. I purchased it as a project. The car had a bad starter when I purchased it and the guys said that after it stands for a while it doesn't start right away.

I had the car towed to my house and got to work on it. I changed the starter and the car now turns over, however it does not start. I called the former owner and he said that it does that after it has been sitting for a few weeks it doesn't always start. I was getting ready to do a compression test and decided to test fuel pressure first (not sure if this is the most correct way) by unscrewing the first cylinder fuel line at the fuel injector and cranking the engine. Nothing happened. There should be a fuel spray when cranking, correct? There is also wetness around fuel regulator See attached. Anyone have any ideas on what the next step should be?
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Hi Jeremy,
To answer your main question:'does fuel spurt out of the hard lines' (my edit), no it does not. At best a dribble, drop or less. I was surprised too when I learned this on my W124 diesel, but yes that is the case: only a very small amount comes out.

Your no start issue is best diagnosed by reading the fuel line threads here, changing the filters(main and pre) with the o-rings. This simple step usually gets things to a car starting level.

The wetness you see is fuel leaking past the o-rings and those fuel lines seem to be going to the shut off valve.

It is mostly likely a good idea to change all the plastic lines as the two shown in the photo are brown indicating they are old. Old lines themselves are not bad, but old lines have old o-rings which leak air and these engines don't like that.

Congrats on the purchase and take advantage of th wealth of knowledge here.
 
#4 ·
If Im not mistaken the 'horseshoe clips'(the white U shaped ones) are in the wrong position, they should be pulled out not pushed in. Pulling them out unlocks them.

If you are going to do as kajtek1 suggests, and you should, then take some time to read about how replace the fuel lines, one line at a time-then start, repeat until done. Quite a few owners have gone and done them all only to report the car wont start, the battery died and then some fried their starter....read the stickies and threads first. You shouldn't run into any problems or minimal ones.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. I am currently endeavouring in to changing the glow plugs, the CEL was on for them, it seems like 6 was already spinning freely. I have someone coming who works at a metal shop to see if we can get it out. Once that is done I am going to change the lines. I have already change the filter and prefilter. Once that is done I am going to do some research and change all of the lines. It seems like people don't recommend changing them with the benz standard lines. There is one area of concern however. I am looking at the CCV puck, or whatever you guys call it in the diesel world and it is wet with oil furthermore when taking off the intake manifold it it looks like there is oil or oily residue coming in from the EGR (pics both attached). The intercooler line into the manifold is dry so its definitely not coming from the turbo is this normal for a diesel or is it an indication of another problem? I assume the puck is bad, or there may be bad compression causing the turbo to blow by the pistons increasing case pressure and blowing oil out of the top. Does that theory make sense?
 

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#6 · (Edited)
I always like to start with the cheapest and easiest troubleshooting.
Drain the fuel tank of old fuel and add fresh diesel. top it off.
Disconnect the fuel (flex) supply hose from the hard line coming from the tank. Does fuel flow? gravity should push some fuel out. if not you have an issue in the tank, filter or line. ( FYI diesel fuel tanks are dirty!) If fuel flows freely: Reconnect hose.
Check the pre-filter in the filter housing next to the spin on filter. Clean it.
Remove spin on fuel filter from housing. replace it if you don't know when it was installed last. ( Fill it all the way to the top with Diesel before installation) My car starts on the 3-4th try after I change the fuel filter out. as it purges the air.

If the car still doesn't start, then move to the more expensive parts like the Fuel shut off solenoid, Clear hoses and Glow plugs.
But dont tear the engine apart just yet..
OH wait, too late..lol
 
#7 ·
Awesome, you are well on your way to improve your new ride. A few thoughts on what worked for me.

Glow plugs, great news that they all spin thats the hard part. Next you will probably have trouble actually getting them out. Thats normal and its because there is carbon build up on the GP element. Be careful taking them out, use your favorite penetrating oil and gently but firmly turn them back and forth to work them out. This is assuming you have unthreaded them 100%. Be very careful not to break them off!!

Once out you will need/have to ream out the GP holes. If you dont have a reamer, buy or make one using a drill bit and an old gp you took out. Use grease on the reamer end so the carbon sticks to it.

MB is the only one that makes the lines, they are cheap(er), but some say you can just change the o-rings. Due to thier price, I'd suggest just getting new its the best alternative.

Crud under the CCV puck, normal. Clean it up and it should be good for another 100K miles. Now be careful with the larger black tubings around the puck, they break just by looking at them and for a short piece plastic are pricey. Better not to mess with them if they are not broken or clearly leaking. CRUD in the injector wells is different and a large problem, google cdi or w210 black death...not pretty.

The oily junk in the intake and EGR you see is the effect of owning a diesel, all diesel MBs suffer from this. Its from the EGR which directs some/all low idle exhaust gases back into the intake so the engine does not pollute as much. Clean it up best as you can, or get creative and look on youtube for other options...no joke. There is an EGR delete mod on here which you can look up too, solves this problem but I have not done it.
 
#9 ·
Per my experience - crucial in cleaning GP holes is the taper at the end of bigger shaft where the GP seals.
If you put GP with dirt on the taper, the gases with sot will pack up whole length of the plug and thread- making next job of GP removal pretty much a disaster.
 
#10 ·
Sorry I have been off for a few week. Bad new guys! It seems like Glow plug 3 is about to go and 6 is broken/ I can spin the nut freely with my hand. I want to give myself a challenge and take the head off and see if I can put it back together. The service manual says you will need to disassemble the cams and completely take them off the head. I am wondering if I mark the cam gears and the timing chain, leave the cams in place, then reset thier current position and reassemble them without completely resetting the timing?

Also this is my first venture inside an engine. Anything to be aware of? Has anyone had problems getting the head bolts undone?
 
#16 ·
I can spin the nut freely with my hand.
Does the whole glow plug spin in place? I wonder if it's just sort of stuck due to carbon buildup. If so, you could eventually remove it by working it back and forth while pulling on it. It will require some time and effort, but it will come out. However, if in fact the threads in the head are actually destroyed, you'll need to proceed with your current plan. I would just hate to see you go through the expense, time, and effort of head removal if it were avoidable.
 
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#11 ·
Marking the timing with chain and holding the chain up from dropping down and loosing the lower index is crucial.
Head removal on this engine is easy.
I mean easier than on other engines with crossover valves, maze of rods and brackets.
Still take your time, document the steps with pictures in case you forget where the darn bolt come from and have fun.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Sounds to me like you read Ford truck forum too :D
I hope you are familiar with WIS >>> Mercedes Benz Workshop Manuals
It is good idea to read them, take a peek at the engine and reread them again to make sure you understand all the jargon.
Print the important pages and attach them on garage wall.
Just to compare how much easier it is on this engine - I had to replace engine oil cooler on 6l Powerstroke. The cooler is mounted in the engine valley. To get there I had to remove fuel filter, turbo, egr cooler, bunch of wiring. Total about 6 hr just to get to darn $120 cooler.
 
#14 ·
I did purchase a shop manual off ebay. I've been rereading it almost nightly. I can't wait for the weather to clear up here on the east coast so I can start the project.

Fortunately it doesn't look like there is going to be too much stuff in the way here. I just hope that the cylinder head can be repaired by a machine shop.
 
#15 ·
I would check ebay and local craigslist for replacement head.
Sometimes you can get rebuild head with warranty, than local shop would charge you for rebuilding yours.
You never know and few clicks don't cost much.
Good luck, I seat in 80F weather and have to wait as well as currently have some flashing on the roof to fix. Not a job for full CA sunshine ;)
 
#17 ·
You brought good point binuya.
I recall somebody having a problem you describe and he made a tool. Using a nut size of glow plug, he cut it in halves that could grab GP thread outside the head and while holding the nut halves together, could turn the GP with force enough to break carbon build up on the tip.
Hopefully it is that easy.
 
#19 ·
X2 on wishing you good luck and hopefully this will all work out. If you do need a head, the only known to me e300 in philly is with this guy.

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/5447396977.html

I bought some body parts off him a few months back after a run in with a deer. He has an e300, but last I spoke with him he wanted to fix and sell it.

Also, if you need a machine shop and are in the KOP are there is one I used to check a w124 head and was recommended to me by a few indys.
 
#20 ·
Tonight's update, finally a warm enough day to do some work on the car. I manage to get 90% of the head apart...then the damn slide pin broke my Jerry rigged pin remover. I decided to use a stack of washers and a nut to brace a 6mm bolt. The bolt broke off in the pin. Fortunately there is enough of it sticking out that I should be able to drem it in half and unscrew it with a screw driver. I hear these can be a pain So I might try to brace a pry bar under the nut to apply some pressure. If not might try another screw and hope for better luck. Unfortunately I can't find a slide hammer that is small enough to fit between the radiator and the front of the motor. Completely open to ideas!
 

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#26 ·
Yup, I bought black bolt with washers when I did the headgasket on my M104. It was easy to pull it out... Used black bolt, couple nuts and couple washers. Of course I tightened the bolt in the pin first.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Please excuse my mspaint drawing -- I'm no artist.

This is what I used to pull out the guide pin on my M104 car.

I would think the same setup should work for your OM606.

I use a deep socket bit that was bigger than the bolt (and pin) and used a washer that was about the same size as the socket bit.

Turn in the bolt all the way. when it stops turning, then turn the nut until it's flush against the socket bit. Then use a wrench to keep turning it out.

Bam, guide pin out.

Of course, I used tempered bolt, or whatever they call the black bolt.
 

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#29 ·
WOW... don't take the head off just because of a broken glow plug!
There are a few ways of removing them from the block once broken.
Saturate the treads with PB blaster for 24 hrs. remove the spinning head. Break the center rod (tungsten conductor) that runs in the center of the GP with a pair of vice grips with a twisting motion. this will only leave the GP outer housing in the block.
Now you have an ID to insert a stud removal tool ( I use snap-on ) easy out with a hex head. Slowly begin to back the GP out.
Use a small coat of anti seize on the new GP before installation. ( don't over torgue)

Jetguy
 
#31 ·
The head is now off the car. It is at a machine shop. I ordered all new fuel lines and am waiting for them to be delivered from Benz. Once that is done hopefully everything will come back together smoothly. I believe there is still a fuel issue Will have more updates once everything is back together.
 

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