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What have you done for your W210 today/lately?

194K views 2K replies 254 participants last post by  wlb50 
#1 ·
This thread was created to elicit quick report of TLC or modification not
necessarily worthy of a thread, but simply an opportunity for us to highlight
something, e.g. wash, new shoes, wiper blade, seat conditioner, etc. So, let's
brag or share, folks. :)

I cleaned out my windshield washer tank because the additives in the wash
corroded my sensor and it was reporting 'low fluid' though the tank was full.
A little tooth brushing and flossing did the trick. Natch I've switched to different
fluid. (stay away from RainX orange)
 
#482 ·
Replaced a defective srs sensor in the passenger seat last night. It took 4 hours.
This morning, I replaced the seal between the intake tube and throttle body with updated part.
I hope this takes care of the oil consumption problem.
There was evidence of motor oil making its way to the throttle body from the breather hoses.

Last month, I replaced the low beam wiring harness with a repair kit from MB dealer.
 
#488 ·
Replaced a defective srs sensor in the passenger seat last night. It took 4 hours.
This morning, I replaced the seal between the intake tube and throttle body with updated part.
I hope this takes care of the oil consumption problem.

There was evidence of motor oil making its way to the throttle body from the breather hoses.

Last month, I replaced the low beam wiring harness with a repair kit from MB dealer.
Did this seal symptom include an occasional puff of blue on start up?
 
#483 ·
I replaced my rear brake pads and rotors. They were barely worn after 7 years and only 35k miles. The right caliper had some rust, holding the outer pad partially away from the rotor and holding the inner pad half against the rotor. I'll be replacing the caliper with a brand new one from MB Parts World.

After a few hundred miles on the brakes, the left rear pad must have been stuck against the rotor because it had a slight burning smell and was hotter than the right. Odd because the left caliper had no rust and its old pads were moving freely. I bought a caliper rebuild kit, so will replace its dust boots and try to clean any rust off its pistons which may be holding the brakes in place.

Then I'll look at the front brakes and confirm they've been working ok.
 
#486 ·
The right caliper had some rust, holding the outer pad partially away from the rotor and holding the inner pad half against the rotor. I'll be replacing the caliper with a brand new one from MB Parts World.

After a few hundred miles on the brakes, the left rear pad must have been stuck against the rotor because it had a slight burning smell and was hotter than the right. Odd because the left caliper had no rust and its old pads were moving freely. I bought a caliper rebuild kit, so will replace its dust boots and try to clean any rust off its pistons which may be holding the brakes in place.
Was going to mention a caliper rebuild. Sounds like you're on your way. rockauto.com has some great prices. However, I think they only have the Centric caliper rebuild kit for my car last I checked. I don't know how good or bad Centric is. Looks like a typical cheaper Chinese brand. Not that most of the other stuff is not Chinese as well...

Back on topic, I recently replaced all brake pads and rotors and even the parking brake shoes with ones from Hella/Pagid. They worked out ok so far. The parking brake shoes are bitchy to get back on. Now I know why MB has the special hook and spring twisting tools. I used small and large screwdrivers for those tasks. Would have preferred a thin needle nose plier for the spring but could not find mine. Time to buy another... :|
 
#484 ·
Purchased my 2000 E430 4 Matic on 2/1. Next day I had to replace the radiator. Previous owner told me that the low coolant warning came on the day before I picked it up. Radiator, new coolant, oil change, and air filter change within the first 35 hours of ownership. Put on 4 new tires. Rear brakes and Rotors and new Front brake pads. Rear pads were Akibono and the fronts were Bosch.

This weekend I plan to have the motor mounts replaced as the car trembles a bit at idle out of Park or Neutral.
 
#485 ·
Just purchased my 02 E430 4matic in February....I've gotten the oil changed (of course), driveshaft replaced, windshield wiper/turn signal wand replaced and now I need to stop my gear shift knob from shaking (I hope it's just the bushings). This is my first MB. I really enjoy driving it but not sure how much more money I want to pour in to it. By the way, I got it for practically nothing....so it's kind of worth it.
 
#487 ·
Changed tensioner, belt and idle pulley last weekend and spark plugs today and will do transmission fluid exchange next weekend or whenever weather permits. Then I got a rip on my driver seat, I have the replacement already about a year now, just waiting for the weather get a little more decent, my garage is full of wife’s crap and my W212 so I mostly work on driveway.
I think after these, not much left, car is in excellent mechanical shape, waiting for 1300 miles road trip to Utah in mid June.
 
#489 ·
About a year ago, our Weecle von Diva, as she is now known, made it unequivocally known that she needed a new serpentine belt & tensioner and new alternator.

Then we did rust abatement over the course of six weeks.

After that, the power steering failed, which required new power steering & rear suspension & brake lines in nickel alloy plus rear suspension accumulators, not to mention the tie rod ends & wheel truing. All told, that cost more than we initially paid for the car.

A couple of months ago, the car simply died within minutes of the ABS Visit Shop warning flashed with a dramatic beep. The fan that cools the electronics failed. The car was in the shop a week, most of which was spent just diagnosing the problem. Possible rodent damage suggested. (AAA is worth its weight in gold, same color as the card.)

Fuel pump/filter failure diagnosed with help of this forum. Shop reports fuel pump diagnosis is correct, but car also needs front brake lines & new CV joints & boots. Incidentally, we cleaned out the windshield drains, and my wife found a veritable mouse condominium under the cowl behind the engine. It took about 15 minutes to remove using a bent coat hanger & shop vac.

Because my many talents do not include any but the most cursory automotive DIY skills, the amount we've spent to keep our beloved white wagon on the road could have bought us a new one or two, or better yet a garage. Anyhow, we really love our W210 and have invested too much energy & money to give up now.
 
#490 ·
Started to so the shocks and removed the trunk covers.

Fixed the Transmission/Coolant leak.

Replaced the radiator.
 
#494 ·
W210 Estate - Replaced Throttle Position Sensor

This was such an easy thing to do.

PROBLEM: after depressing the accelerator pedal agressively, the car would become almost unresponsive. Had to turn car off and back on again to accelerate.

SOLUTION: replaced TPS. Took 10 minutes and the problem went away.
 
#497 ·
For the 2002 E430, today I swapped out the sagging seat back pocket behind driver seat that's been buggin me for a while. I picked up a set of 2 seatbacks from eBay good condition and in matching color. Now I have a spare! A reminder for anyone doing this the 2 screws on the bottom are Torx 15 and be very careful when removing the little rectangular night light.

Also, passenger side windshield spray nozzle was not spraying while driver side nozzle stream was weak. I removed the passenger side spray nozzle assembly and reattached the hose that has a tendency to slip off on their own. :mad: This is not my first time with this problem- last year it was the driver side hose that came off, and I've had it happen in my old 2000 E320 in the past.
 

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#500 ·
replaced transmission twice, first one was incompatible 722.630, had to get a replacement of its exact type 722.618 and has been flawless for the last two weeks. Replaced the sagging headliner, now changed my rear tires to the 55 size while the front ones are 60. my multi function steering control going nuts.... ac has a mind of its own.... hope to get around to it, 02 sensors need replacement...
 
#502 ·
Used my OBD2 Reader for the first time

After topping up my oil and washer fluid and letting a bit of air out of the tires (the weather is finally warming up here in Toronto and the tires were all up a few pounds) I used my new OBD2 reader to try and find out why my check engine light came on last week. No real drivability issues, power is down just slightly, and I have notices my gas mileage is up a bit so figure I'm running a bit lean. Got code P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirc - Flow. Time to book an appointment with the dealer I guess.
 

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#503 ·
After topping up my oil and washer fluid and letting a bit of air out of the tires (the weather is finally warming up here in Toronto and the tires were all up a few pounds) I used my new OBD2 reader to try and find out why my check engine light came on last week. No real drivability issues, power is down just slightly, and I have notices my gas mileage is up a bit so figure I'm running a bit lean. Got code P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirc - Flow. Time to book an appointment with the dealer I guess.
Try this first: (Courtesy of Greg)
I can't tell you exactly what part of the EGR that pertains to, nor am I sure how precise the codes are. That said, this is how I'd proceed.

1. Disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and fit a longer piece of hose on it. Suck on it and be sure the diaphram holds vacuum (if you have to keep sucking on it that is bad). If it does not hold vacuum, replace the valve.

2. Remove the little plastic check valve (one end won't be connected, this is normal). Note which end is plugged in. Inspect it for cracks/damage and suck on it. It should allow air flow in one direction only. If it is suspect, replace it.

3. If it checks out thus far, then remove the EGR valve and tube. Clean both thoroughly (the tube can be particularly troublesome to clean, pipe cleaners can help) and check the diaphram (again) and make sure the mechanism moves smoothly (visual check) when you apply vacuum. If not, replace it.

4. Inspect the gasket for damage, if any is present, replace it.

5. Replace/clean/reinstall as necessary.

Reset codes and drive car, see if the issue is resolved.
 
#505 · (Edited)
Changed the CPS on my 1999 E320 today as a preventative measure because my kid is taking the car to college in the fall.

Does anyone know what the resistance range is for the CPS?

The E320 sensor (Bosch) was tested at 1.1 K ohms. It was replaced with a new OEM one with the name and part number grinded off. It tested at .659 K ohms. I also have an OEM one removed from my former 1999 CLK320 with 25,470 miles (on sensor) which tested at .664 K ohms.
 
#506 ·
'97 E420) Well let's see; I decided to repair the lower core support. (someone had curbed it, and fan hitting radiator) So, I remove radiator, and find that not only is the cradle bent, but some welds are popped loose. I remove the cradle, straighten it, and re-install it. Got it all sealed, and shot a coat of paint on it, re- installed the radiator, got it all buttoned up just in time for my Granddaughters birthday party. :D
 
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