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What have you done for your W210 today/lately?

194K views 2K replies 254 participants last post by  wlb50 
#1 ·
This thread was created to elicit quick report of TLC or modification not
necessarily worthy of a thread, but simply an opportunity for us to highlight
something, e.g. wash, new shoes, wiper blade, seat conditioner, etc. So, let's
brag or share, folks. :)

I cleaned out my windshield washer tank because the additives in the wash
corroded my sensor and it was reporting 'low fluid' though the tank was full.
A little tooth brushing and flossing did the trick. Natch I've switched to different
fluid. (stay away from RainX orange)
 
#449 ·
Recent body repair results in limp mode

Bought another W210 (Diesel this time) as spare part donor.
It gave me winter tires, 2 doors, 1 mirror, trunk hatch, brake disks...
And then I noticed the need for body welding (beam below doors).
Which I did, resulting in a self-smuthered floor isolation fire. It melted some wires.
But that I didn't notice, my first thought was damaged TCM/BAS/ASR/ABS unit due to welding...
So I exchanged spare modules, without any result.

Now, over the cause of 4 weeks, I've repaired
  • The wires, getting ABS sensors online
  • Fixed a burnt trace on the voltage distribution PCB
  • Found that the TCM is not at all visible for STAR code reader
  • Wonder wether I broke 2 TCM's against the molten wires or is there some other fault depriving TCM of some necessary signal
Strange thing: Even PCB traces may melt, but no fuses burnt!!

The saga goes on. Ordered a used TCM on Ebay. Now in search of pinout, so I could measure for missing signals.
 
#450 ·
Recent body repair results in limp mode

Bought another W210 (Diesel this time) as spare part donor.
It gave me winter tires, 2 doors, 1 mirror, trunk hatch, brake disks...
And then I noticed the need for body welding (beam below doors).
Which I did, resulting in a self-smuthered floor isolation fire. It melted some wires.
But that I didn't notice, my first thought was damaged TCM/BAS/ASR/ABS unit due to welding...
So I exchanged spare modules, without any result.

Now, over the cause of 4 weeks, I've repaired
  • The wires, getting ABS sensors online
  • Fixed a burnt trace on the voltage distribution PCB, giving me BAS & ASR
  • Reset the SRS (new door => fault shown)
  • Found that the TCM is not at all visible for STAR code reader
  • Wonder wether I broke 2 TCM's against the molten wires or is there some other fault depriving TCM of some necessary signal
Strange thing: Even PCB traces may melt, but no fuses burnt!!

The saga goes on. Ordered a used TCM on Ebay. Now in search of pinout, so I could measure for missing signals.
 
#452 · (Edited)
Currently at 84,428 miles.

Replaced cabin air filters #%@*! I cutted down the "shark fins" last time, but I guess not enough. Changing these filters shouldn't be this hard!

Replaced engine air filter.........easy peasy :)

Replaced oil pressure test port cover and gasket with the newer version as a preventive measure. Treated serpentine belt with Aerospace 303 while it was out.
 
#463 ·
Currently at 84,428 miles.
Replaced oil pressure test port cover and gasket with the newer version as a preventive measure. Treated serpentine belt with Aerospace 303 while it was out.
Damn............sprang a leak today after only 1,266 miles. Guess I shouldn't of fix it if it wasn't broken :(

Did the same job on my CLK320 which was leaking and had no issues. I tried tightening the bolts more, but it didn't help any. I pulled the plate off and the rubber gasket was hard already :eek It was pliable when I installed it.

I cleaned it and reinstalled with RTV. Will wait 24 hours and check again.
 
#456 · (Edited)
Replaced fuel pump today because it was getting noisy and engine would occasionally die immediately after starting. It would restart easily and run fine afterward. Don't know if the two are related. We'll see...........

Here are some tips for replacing the fuel pump and/or fuel filter:

1) Buy a hose clamp kit if you don't have one. Money will be well spent!
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...lines/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html

2) Optional, but will make life easier are hose pliers:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html

3) I replaced the factory clamps with worm type. Lol........purist are cringing.

4) If your rubber mounts are original, consider replacing them (four required).
www.mbdirectparts.com/oem-parts/mer...vPWUzMjAmeT0xOTk5JnQ9YmFzZSZlPTMtMmwtdjYtZ2Fz

5) Make a mental note (or take a picture) on how the wires are position relative to the fuel pump. You can't mix them up because the terminals are different sizes, but you do want them position correctly so there is less stress to the wire.

6) Loosen but do NOT remove the screw that clamps the fuel filter and pump down. Slide the filter and/or pump out. If you take the screw out, you will truly regret it. Ask me how I know :frown

Relatively easy job. Takes about one to two hours from start to finish. YMMV :)
 
#465 ·
Spring Perch Repair

Finally did the dreaded spring perch repair. Had a hard time finding anyone capable and willing to do it. Found a great front end shop who had done lots of them and was fair in price

Parts 51.00
Labor 580.00
Align 68.00

Add tax and misc. Total Cost $ 735.90

I thought that was a very fair price. Great job the car rides so much better, tracks straight, no more weird noises.
 
#467 ·
E320 2000 Inspsection

Just had my new (to me) 2000 E320 'pre-purchase' inspected, even though I have had it for 4 months. Had only done 79,000km (47,400 miles) at purchase, now 81,000. Reason for inspection: even though no error codes and drove very well, I didn't want any nasty surprises on a long trip.

Not too unhappy with the result (written report, cost $132, money well spent I think):

"Small oil leak from rocker cover gaskets;
Brake fluid requires replacement;
Front wheel bearings require adjustment;
Lower ball joints have excessive play;
Small diff leak (most likely from breather);
Gear linkage bush on shifter missing;
Outer skin on centre muffler box has rust holes
Requires wheel alignment."

Will do wheel bearing adjustment and ball joint replacements next weekend and work through the other items over next few weeks. Re muffler rust, might try painting on rust converter to arrest further rusting - vehicle is v.quiet so muffler working fine at the moment.

Any advice would be welcome.
 
#472 ·
Replaced water pump with a Mercedes reman, new serpentine belt and the redesigned oil pressure test port cover and seal today. Other than a major cluster trying to find a FLAPS that had a 36 mm spanner that wasn't misshapen for the fan clutch it went well.

I recently replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner, so the whole serpentine belt system should be in good shape for another 100k.

Dan
 
#473 ·
Hello Everyone,

I am Brand New to Benzworld.

I purchased in the fall a 1997 E400- W210- M119- 32 Valve with 65,000 KM.

Japan spec car and imported into Canada. Yes 400 Badging instead of 420 which is even more unique. Even came with built in Pop out screen for Navigation dvd and 4 antennas from and branded mercedes. Rare upgrade accessories I haven’t seen before on any forum.

The Car is a beast .I put a couple thousand kms on it already. I want to keep it as a time capsule but i will be in search of more horsepower with your help. I will ad more pics if you are interested.

I would Love more Horsepower. The car is literally Brand New. Except for some little issues that require attention. Since i am New to the M119 and the W210 not the most common combination i know, i would like your help. I like to work on my own cars but i do have limits and no hoist.

1- ESP Pump Failure - should i even bother!

2- Rear driver window falls down. motor turns. Is this the actuator failing? or other parts required.

3- I have a ticking in the engine – I think one of the oiler tubes on the right side of engine broken since they are made of plastic. Also its like -30 C in the north,
- Chall I Change all the ones on the right side with metal ones, since removing
head and replacing gasket?
- Replace Upper plastic chain rail guides as well or don’t mess with it.

Any other maintenance at this mileage should be undertaken?


FUN STUFF - More Horses
-1) Is it possible to purchase a supercharger for this engine? Seems like only the m113 engine have this aftermarket option.

2) Headers. Anyone have any or know where to source them. Is it possible for this massive engine with clearance.
- Cat Delete? Or High flow small casts to avoid losing back pressure and torque.
- X Pipe install and what muffler? Free flow e55 w210?

3) My Brakes are faded and need new pads and discs.
- thinking of sourcing rebuilt/used 4 piston calipers and bigger disks from another Mercedes. Any ideas that bolt right on to the car? Minimizing $

Also any advice on navigating and contributing to this thread would be great.
 

Attachments

#474 ·
Since the rear end accident last fall which was a hit and run, i have replaced the trunk and bumper and mostly realigned the trunk lid with the opening - can;t get perfect and probably won't. Electrical issues began with death of the battery which refused to hold a charge after recharging. replaced with another battery which i had on hand, still a few gremlins. Seat controls on driver side were not working but i had planned on replacing the door card with a 'pretty' one and that fixed the controls. next up is the windows. having an occasional BAS/ESP/ABS error related to taillights. something was keeping the brake lights on.
 
#475 ·
Hello Benzfantoronto,
You mention the rare driver window falling down.
Do you mean just randomly and then comes back up again later?
or it's fallen and no longer working? if the latter... its most likely no big deal!
Both my rear windows like on many w210's failed in the same typical way; there is a little plastic clip on the track that holds the wire and rigging, that plastic is prone to snap especially once the lube dries out. You can order replacements online (mine were about 5 Euros from Latvia) and there are many videos and a few forums on benzworld and others on the repair getting the wire/rigging back in a little bit of a B*tch but apart from that no speciality tools required I did use a rivet gun but there are many ways to "skin that cat" . you'll most likely snap a few of the clips for the door panel on removal, again you can buy a bag of those to replace or, put a dap of silicone or glue instead. I took things a step further and added insulation I had on hand into the door panels back siding for a little extra silence in the car!
 
#476 ·
Killed some gremlins

After over a year of battling electrical gremlins (windows and seats not working, etc.) we recently got a month of freezing weather and that seems to have finally done in the battery. It was the usual stuff but all at once this time. It was so bad the turn signals and windshield wiper stopped working. So today I replaced the battery. I spent the extra bucks and got the AGM battery that everybody sells: 900 cca, 160 reserve minutes. Got mine from Auto Zone because they were the cheapest in stock. Wal*Mart was cheapest but they didn't have any. Other than lifting the batteries it was an easy job, despite all the auto store web sites advising that this battery requires professional installation, no doubt because of the breather tube. Mercedes was even nice enough to make all the fasteners 13mm, so I only needed one wrench. Socket set with extensions would have helped but wasn't necessary (in the wrench vs. ratchet laziness debate, being too lazy to fetch the ratchet won out over being too lazy to use the wrench). I'm happy to report the electrical gremlins are all dead now! Except the brake lights, damnit. I'm really getting desperate about those brake lights.
 
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