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Just bought an E200k. Advice please

2K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  Deplore 
#1 ·
Hi,

Having owned an e240 and selling it I have wanted another Mercedes again. I've bought a 2000 E200k Kompressor. It has 117k miles but full service history. I will be picking it up on Thursday and was wondering if there is anything I should watch out for when checking it out prior to handing over the cash?

Matt
 
#2 ·
Most of the non-engine related stuff in the "common issues" thread linked in the sticky will apply straight across.

That M111 engine wasn't used in the W210 on this side of the pond, though, so for more info on it I'd look in the 202 forum. The C230K uses that engine and I'm sure if you poke around you'll find some good info.

Good luck and happy motoring.
 
#3 ·
A nice engine but not a lot of power, very fuel efficient. Check condition of manifold, mine got a crack after 200 000 km. Other than that I have been enjoying my ride.

As mentioned check other common issues. Take your time and check all electronics, check all windows, check every button and take a code reader if you have one.

Happy driving. :grin
 
#4 · (Edited)
Hi,

To be honest I only bought this as it had 19" Carlsson alloys with it and I got it for a good price. It's also in Tanzanite Blue which I like. I have been looking for an E430 for a while but could never get one that I liked. I will keep this and keep looking for a 430 and then swap the wheels and sell this then. Not that bothered if it's not fast as don't drive like a lunatic anyway.

Matt
 

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#7 ·
Well,

I picked the car up this morning. Impressed mostly. The engine to me feels about the same power wise as my old E240. Engine sounds a little less refined. There is one thing, when I turn the steering wheel left and right it makes a squeaking noise. Any ideas?

Matt
 
#10 ·
You have to make your mind on fluid supplies.
Some people like to save couple bucks on aftermarket fluids.
I figured out that those fluids need change every few years, so risking the car reliability for $5 annual savings is not worth being Guinea pig.
I experienced that MB coolant is very superior to anything else. Is PS that much better? I don't know, but even bottle might cost high comparing to others, you need it about every 10 years.
New rack cost over $2000
 
#11 ·
Low fluid level would cause the symptoms you describe. I hate to mark the seller as dishonest but just because it doesn't LOOK like its leaking doesn't mean it's not or hasn't been leaking in the past. They may have patched it up and cleaned it up for the sale. My SL had a profound ps leak and the dishonest seller had patched it up and cleaned the pump so that it would look new. Turned out to be a leak within the connection between the pump and the reservoir. Cost was minimal but it was still irritating. Was not a surprise that when I had to replace the top hydraulics my mechanic discovered it had been rolled over and totaled and the title had been "washed". Sigh
 
#15 ·
Use Pentosin CHS 11S for power steering -- one liter is $20 or so. Just about any dealership will have it... BMW, MB, Toyota...they'll have it. Or check your local parts store. It's oem fluid, if you're wondering. PS takes 1 liter.

And there is an fast way to empty the old power steering fluid....you can unscrew the 19mm nut that is on the bottom of the return hose (I don't know the word in English) that's connected to the rod thingy (it's the mechanism that actually turns the wheel, bottom of the engine). Take out the nut, turn on engine for 5 second only (the pump will pump out all fluids), put nut back on and refill. Bam.
 
#14 ·
Unfortunately PS has no drain plug, what makes it sad as those care are reaching 500k miles and 20 years, still with predictions to add much more.
I would take a sample of the fluid on white paper. If it does not look dirty, I would just suck whatever is in the reservoir, paying attention go suck bottom stuff and refill.
With dirty fluid that should be repeated 3 times with steering moved between.
 
#19 ·
Could be the recirculation valve is stuck. I'll have to look up the technical term, but basically that valve opens when the car is idle, and the forced air is circulating from the super charger and back to the air filter.... When you drive, the valve closes completely. If it's faulty, it would stay slightly open, hence loss of power.
 
#17 ·
With the small 4 cylinder engine if the Kompressor wasn't working it would feel underpowered. When I floored my old 350SDL turbodiesel you could feel a kick in the butt when the turbo kicked in. It would kind of loaf along until I got to about 30 mph and then it was like being kicked out of a rocket. I've never had a Kompressor but I would image it would be the same but maybe smoother because of advances in technology.
 
#18 ·
Never has supercharger as well, but being fan of mechanics, did study it in the past.
The advantage of supercharger is that it has no turbo lag.
Bad part is that it takes some HP, what in turbo is coming free from exhaust.
Superchargers are firmly driven from the engine, so they can't not work, unless you see major disaster.
I believe the computer would sense any misalignment and make CEL.
It did sense small cut on my intercooler hose that would open only under heavy load.
 
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