My 2002 E430 has 105k miles and generally runs great. I have had the car serviced at dealer through first 75k miles and now at indy.
The CEL light came on and got the following codes: P0400 P0123 P0134 P0154.
For the P0400 code I'm going to attempt the "ohlord" procedure to clean the EGR tube, if I can get some clarification as to where to drill the hole.
For the P0123, throttle position sensor, code should I to try to clean it? Or is it just time to replace?
On about 3 or 4 different occasions in the past 2 years the car failed to accelerate. I reset the transmission by stepping on gas pedal for a minute and then turning car on. That's worked every time.
The P0134 and P0154 codes refer to the oxygen sensors.
I've read that the non-acceleration and the oxygen sensor fault codes could be due to a bad CPS.
The car runs great and my wife really loves the styling, designo espresso edition, and have no qualms about ordering all these sensors from Autohausz, about $550, ouch!
Besides the fluid changes and spark plug replacement, any other times you guys recommend also taken care of?
O2 sensors: Bosch says the sensors are 100K items to check or replace. I don't know how to check them, so I just replaced them. If you are going to DIY, you can save some meaningful dough by buying the "universal" sensors, so you re-use your connector. You have to measure the length and splice things of course, but it's not difficult. Look up the PN on Bosch's site and then search it, even at Amazon. They had the best price last time I checked. Just avoid ebay, there are many repackaged knockoffs there.
TPS: The TPS design on our cars does afford the possibility of cleaning. Just remove it (five minutes) and blast away with some contact cleaner, residue-type is fine since there are moving parts inside. If that doesn't do it, it is easy to change. That said, I had a ground-fault issue with an O2 sensor that triggered a P0120 TPS code, so there is a thin possibility that changing the O2 sensors may resolve that.
EGR: Personally, I would avoid cleaning the EGR tube in situ. First, you really should replace the vacuum line anyway (and check the valve) and the valve probably needs to be cleaned as well. Plus, there is a lot of junk in the tube, and I prefer to keep it out of the intake (it already has enough from the EGR and the breathers anyway!!) Pull it all out, soak the tube for a while (WD-40 is pretty good as a solvent) and use an aquarium brush, it's better than a pipe cleaner.
At 100K, you've mentioned all of the fluids. Definitely all of them, don't forget the differential and PS units. That said, a good starting point is a B-list inspection, including a good look at the underside. Body mounts, suspension mounts and links, steering links, flex discs, etc. As part of the B, do both sets of the cabin filters, too.
You're due for plugs, and at the same time I'd do: breather hoses, reseal breather covers, inspect/test ignition wires, replace motor mounts and transmission mount, and if you like PM, change the CPS (if you have all this other stuff off it makes it a bit easier). If you do the engine mounts when you do the spark plugs, you can pivot the engine up and do the plugs on that side, it gives you extra room to work, which is nice if you're not a pro. Inspect/replace all of the vacuum lines as well.
Idler pulley and serpentine belt are a definite by 100K. If you have the old style tensioner, I'd change that as well.
When's the last time you changed the fuel filter?
Front wheel bearings...repack is coming due. I would not do this separately, though, unless you're a long way from a brake job. Rather, so long as it won't be too long, just wait until you change out the front brakes, then repack the front wheel bearings so you don't duplicate all that labor unnecessarily.
I think that's everything I had before. I'm sure others will have their own recommendations.
Greg is on the top of preventive maintenance of those cars, although he is not wearing Rolex doing so, his preventive advices are on the top.
I am more on practical side and don't do prevention just because. When O2 and EGR are needed for good engine performance and getting them will pay back in fuel savings, new belt and new fuel filter at 100k are precaution, as they are recorded to last 1/4 million miles. Definitely worth inspection at 100k as general rules always have exceptions.
Greasing the bearing at 100k? I am 150k past due
Pedal Position Sensor is pretty expensive, but I tried cleaning in the past with 0 results.
You can drive with it for a while as it will not have fatal collapse besides occasional chocking, but sooner or later you will have to buy new one. Maybe ebay will have good used?
How are flex disks?
for $12.94 Seems like the easiest way to remove the sensor is from above.
Will try to clean.
Will try to replace vacuum tube, seems difficult to get to.
Plugs: I think I'll have my indy replace these. I'll order the OEM plugs from AZ along with the 3 vacuum tubes they have for sale.
Have a bad oil leak from the passenger side breather cover, might as well have them reseal.
Have already replaced fuel filter, idler pulley, serpentine belt, radiator. The main seal was replaced by dealer.
By "vacuum tubes," do you mean the "breather hoses"? If so, do NOT order these from AutohausAZ. They are from the URO brand which you should, in general, avoid like the plague. If you buy those hoses, you will have to replace them again because they will develop cracks in a matter of months.
rmeuropean.com should offer genuine MB breather hoses. That site also gives you some percent off upon checkout with the code "benzworld."
Also, I would only replace the original breather hoses either if they have cracks or if you reseal the breather covers. In that case they will, indeed, most likely suffer some damage during removal. If undisturbed, they will continue to perform their function even if they are getting dry on the outside.
1) I would do general injection clean up for the PO400 - fuel filter (Bosch or Mann) - good gas additive/cleaner like Stabil marine Formula.
The do fresh plugs to follow (genuine Bosch OE replacement only).
The PO400 CEL is NOT really operational, it just means it's slightly out of cold-start smooth operating range.
My experience bad/fair/not-good gas will set if off and good gas plus cleaner will eliminate the problem after 4-5 tansk and PO400 just "goes away".
2) Fresh air filter Mann/Hengst (fresh air filter every oil change)
3) Coming to a braked stop - if there is any engine "subming" or "choking" - then consider replacing CPS
4) Have cats checked - rubber mallet test + IR thermometer
5) Replacing CPS (genuine Bosch) and replacing brake light switch (genuine MB only) I would consider premptive
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