Okay, round two.
O2 sensors: Bosch says the sensors are 100K items to check or replace. I don't know how to check them, so I just replaced them. If you are going to DIY, you can save some meaningful dough by buying the "universal" sensors, so you re-use your connector. You have to measure the length and splice things of course, but it's not difficult. Look up the PN on Bosch's site and then search it, even at Amazon. They had the best price last time I checked. Just avoid ebay, there are many repackaged knockoffs there.
TPS: The TPS design on our cars does afford the possibility of cleaning. Just remove it (five minutes) and blast away with some contact cleaner, residue-type is fine since there are moving parts inside. If that doesn't do it, it is easy to change. That said, I had a ground-fault issue with an O2 sensor that triggered a P0120 TPS code, so there is a thin possibility that changing the O2 sensors may resolve that.
EGR: Personally, I would avoid cleaning the EGR tube in situ. First, you really should replace the vacuum line anyway (and check the valve) and the valve probably needs to be cleaned as well. Plus, there is a lot of junk in the tube, and I prefer to keep it out of the intake (it already has enough from the EGR and the breathers anyway!!) Pull it all out, soak the tube for a while (WD-40 is pretty good as a solvent) and use an aquarium brush, it's better than a pipe cleaner.
At 100K, you've mentioned all of the fluids. Definitely all of them, don't forget the differential and PS units. That said, a good starting point is a B-list inspection, including a good look at the underside. Body mounts, suspension mounts and links, steering links, flex discs, etc. As part of the B, do both sets of the cabin filters, too.
You're due for plugs, and at the same time I'd do: breather hoses, reseal breather covers, inspect/test ignition wires, replace motor mounts and transmission mount, and if you like PM, change the CPS (if you have all this other stuff off it makes it a bit easier). If you do the engine mounts when you do the spark plugs, you can pivot the engine up and do the plugs on that side, it gives you extra room to work, which is nice if you're not a pro. Inspect/replace all of the vacuum lines as well.
Idler pulley and serpentine belt are a definite by 100K. If you have the old style tensioner, I'd change that as well.
When's the last time you changed the fuel filter?
Front wheel bearings...repack is coming due. I would not do this separately, though, unless you're a long way from a brake job. Rather, so long as it won't be too long, just wait until you change out the front brakes, then repack the front wheel bearings so you don't duplicate all that labor unnecessarily.
I think that's everything I had before. I'm sure others will have their own recommendations.
Linear Mode
