I have unfortunately sprung a leak in my 1999TD. The oil looks to be leaking down the front drivers side and is collecting under the bumper and just behind the wheel.
The engine seems to have oil all over the front drivers side, though I can't isolate it coming from a certain hose or area. Nothing seems to be overtly loose.
The drip began yesterday after driving the car for 15 min on my way home. In that time, aprox 3/4 of the oil has drained out.
Is there a common problem I can be looking for or a way to address this DIY? Getting a tow to the dealer is not appealing!
I see pretty corroded oil cooler pipe, but as Dave said, if you want to pinpoint it you have to wash it.
Go to EPS, or Russian site for check if the pipe is separate pipe, or comes with cooler.
Ok,thanks Dave. So I should be taking the plastic undershield off the front and clean. Should I be doing some kind of full engine wash as well? Then put some oil back in, turn on the car and it should be easier to find the leak... Thanks Kajtec1, I'll look into that.
Well I'm having fun so far! I was about to take the plastic undercover off when I noticed a few things:
1. This fancy hose is not attached to anything and has oil on the detached end.
2. This cool cylinder thing with the two black hoses attached, makes a strange electronic sounding, sucking-type noise for a minute, after the car is turned on.
3. This black pipe, behind the rusty (oil cooler pipe?) POURS oil as soon as the car is turned on. Weather it is actually coming from there, or somewhere else...? I can take the cover off tomorrow unless these clues help? I attached these new pics to my first thread post, not sure how to add pics in a reply.
Looks like you have some vacuum system disconnected. Any codes?
I wold worry about oil leak first as it is going to be hard to restore vacuum controls in this mess.
The noisy cylinder is tank pressure purging valve from what I remember - some noise from it is normal.
Ok,thanks Dave. So I should be taking the plastic undershield off the front and clean. Should I be doing some kind of full engine wash as well? Then put some oil back in, turn on the car and it should be easier to find the leak... Thanks Kajtec1, I'll look into that.
I would just wash off the obviously oil-covered parts. Save the "Full Engine Wash" for when you get everything fixed.
Kajtek1, I just have the check engine light on right now - this could possibly be the cause? The engine runs rather noisy, even for a diesel!
Dave, thanks for the links, looks like that's what I have going on here! I've got some new pics uploaded. I was confused by the leak before - in the second last pic - the oil is spraying everywhere from a corroded pipe! So this pipe is the oil cooler pipe?
The links you posted have me a little worried, saying it requires superhuman strength to change the part! Is it a complicated fix and when I go to order the new part, I can just tell the shop it's an oil cooler pipe for a 1999 E300TD?
I've also noticed that my hood will not shut now :/ I am researching this too. All accounts are of a latch or a cable prob. The latch on the drivers sides seems stuck, very little range of movement. Preferably I would like to get the part(s) to fix this when I make the journey across the earth to a parts shop!
Should not have to go that far for parts in Toronto?
I hope you have another ride while you are dealing with it. Sounds like the pipes and cooler cost pretty money, so I would first take it apart to see what is the problem and than spend my money. Some steel pipe corrosion can be brazed for less than high prices I see in other topics.
Disconnected vacuum pipes should trigger CEL. Search for vacuum system diagram on this engine.
I actually have the MB dealer fairly close. I figure buying the part from a non-dealer German part supplier might be cheaper, but they are on the outskirts of the city, I'll be looking into prices.
The actual leak is spraying out of the metal pipe, which we can see is badly corroded. Is it just the pipe I can replace or the whole... cooling system? On another thread someone said the pipe is cheap. It should prob be replaced as oppose to brazed?
And no other ride unfortunately! I need the wheels! I'll check for that diagram..
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
