I am not sure which information is just too much or needed so I will just start from the beginning.
I was driving down the freeway and all of a sudden my car stopped accelerating, like it was in neutral. I pulled over, turned the engine off and sat a few moments. I restarted the car and it drove about 2-3 miles and then did the same thing. Eventually my battery died ( i knew it was on it's last leg). I had to jump the car repeatedly to get to a auto parts store. I replaced the battery. Started home and car did it again......no acceleration like in neutral. I would pull over sit a few minutes and restart the car and it would act normal for a few miles then repeat. I have read something about MAF so, I bought cleaner and replaced. Sat for a few days while I was away. Came back and it seemed fine for several miles, but then same symptoms.
Does this mean I should replace MAF sensor or is this something else?
I should mention I also have a whining noise (no other way to describe) when I first unlock the doors and get in my car (engine not yet started). It sounds like it is behind my stereo or under module (where windows and gear shift are). Could this be related or something totally different?
Sorry for the long post, just wanted to get all the info out.
Thanks for response. The engine revved up but the car didn't accelerate.
I bought the care used, so I don't know what maintenance was really like before, but I get an oil change regularly. Just got one about 2 weeks ago.
There are 163,906 miles on the car.
I did pull out the MAF sensor and cleaned it with spray, but that is it. I have been replacing bulbs that have burned out. I had an issue with the 3rd brake light remaining on, but it went away when I reversed the bulb I put in.
I'm not sure on codes yet, but I am borrowing someones reader to find out today.
So I read through all the stickies. I have checked the TCM but there is no sign of any oil at all. I am checking the connector next. safe to assume if there is no excess oil there I should change out the conductor plate?
1) Replace the connector and clean the socket - Amazon for like $13 delivered as Crossfire transmission connector, or pick up at local Mopar dealer. This is genuine MB part.
2) Don't look at the TCM board - pull the board and use that can of MAF to give the board and TCM connector a thorough cleaning. Board on edge, flood it on both side, let the run off cary away any contamination. That's a $9 can of MAF.
3) After that's done - get the tranny codes erased by MB compatible scanner.
4) MB tranny work when you pull the pan needs to be done with just-short-of-medical cleanliness and orgranization. Also study up on correct tranny fluid.
Yes, conductor plate sensors wear - but I would say 8 out of 10 "1st time PO700/PO715" codes are COMMUNICATION errors and not the board. Eliminate communication errors and erase codes 1st - BEFORE you go to conductor plate replacement.
fabbrisd1 summarized the forum experience pretty well.
I would only add to start with checking the fluid level.
If you are lucky and never got into stage 2 limp, you can get away without paying Star people for code erasing.
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