I've been reading many threads online, people say to use 2 additive to de-oil and then de-calcify the radiator to flush it. They give 2 parts for 2 different additive but when I called MB of south atlanta, they said those 2 parts# are the same the product. So what gives?
Vehicle: 2001 SLK 320(165K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(147K Miles)
Location: South Bay Area,L.A., CA
If you really got oil in the coolant, it will take several flushes over a period of several days. Basically add the citric acid, drive a few hundred miles, drain and repeat until water is no longer oily. Replace all radiator hoses afterwards since the oil would have affected them.
Only two thing are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not so sure about the former.
Honest politicians are like UFOs. Most people believe that there must be some out there somewhere, but nobody has yet been able to prove their existence.
I don't think you have to worry much about oil. It is impossible to get it out anyway. Year ago I bought a truck that had radiator replaced because the transmission cooler in it broke and radiator got ATF, while transmission got coolant.
The dealer who replaced the radiator did not worry about flushing the systems, so I had the radiator flushed 3 times before putting MB coolant (!) into my truck. Since than the coolant still shows some oil residue on the top, that I keep skimming for a year.
I would assume some oil might be actually good for the system
It is the calcium build up that will give you big headache.
I have never seen MB citric acid, so when you get it - post a picture of the label?
Don't know about driving for hundreds miles. Maybe MB cleaner require that, but Prestone flush wants only get the engine warm on driveway, although I prefer to drive since my diesel takes 3 days to warm up idling.
Distillate water flushing trick is to operate it with thermostat open and heater core running before dumping, so few miles drive is all you need.
Look - I guess you are trying to accomplish something important to you.
So you know most of this stuff applied to older cast iron engine blacks and liners and not to modern aluminum/alloy engine blocks.
1) For oil residue you use Shout liquid gel for s non-suds detergent. Do a google.
2) You have a aluminum/alloy Mercedes engine - not to be confused with the olld cast iron block engines - any citirc acid based cleaner will do, and ONLY dose per instructions AND you will need new t-stat and new expansion tank cap.
Nonsense for driving with a acid flush, or a detergent flush either, all is done at idle for circulation - usually 10 minutes max..
The KEY to both procedures is REPEATED and THOROUGH flushing with clean hose water.
If your system has been serviced regularly and the coolant coming out is nice and clear/clean, then there is probably no need to deoil and descale. If you feel like doing that, then the citric acid alone is NOT a deoil product. That's only for descaling. Mercedes instructions call for deoiling before descaling even if there is no evidence of oil in the system. The Shout or Liquid Tide is what will do the deoiling for you. Then follow up with the citric acid to descale rinsing everything thoroughly as has been suggested above. Citric acid can be bought online and also in the canning department of many grocery stores.
The 22oz bottle of Permatex 80032 Heavy Duty Aluminum Radiator Flush (Cooling System Flush) most rave is much better than citric acid alone. It's sold in a good # of stores or online, cost effective OK under $18
I have attached the instructions and pdf file of the MSDS listing the contents.
Unless you have severe oil/tranny fluid mix - this "one step" formula has emulsifiers that take care of "normal" oil/film scum as well.
As noted by the instructions, needs to be followed with earnest flushing, and that immediately followed by correct coolant (MB or G05) any water mix needs to be distilled for proper neutral ph.
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