1997 E320 Door Control Module location. Or is it relays? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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Old 09-30-2012, 06:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1997 E320 Door Control Module location. Or is it relays?

Following an extensive search on this forum I failed to find an answer to where might a driver's DCM for my '97 E320 be located. It is not behind the door panel as some have suggested. My door window will roll down only once, just after I start the car. After that, I can roll it up but it will fail to roll down again. I replaced the lower center console switches assembly about two years ago, after which the problem went away, but is now back. I know it is not the motor, because it will operate in either direction if I take apart the motor connector and swap places the heavy gauge wires. I can also hear a click, as if it was a relay somewhere trying to work when I hit the window down button.

Is it possible that my particular model does not have a dedicated DCM and its functions are built into some other unit? Or is it possible the DCM is located elsewhere? I am certain the light gauge wiring coming out of window switches are not directly fed to the window motor, because the two wires going to it are of a much heavier gauge. There are no relays in a battery bay under the rear seat. But I am suspecting there have to be four pairs of relays if there are no DCMs. The question then is where might they be located?

Last edited by dragonflyer; 09-30-2012 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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for some reason, way back in the recesses of my mind, I am thinking that the
DCM is inside the driver side of the dash but I am unable to come up with anything
in my notes or find a thread to confirm this

update: got closer, but not good enough
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you raymond-, this does help as far as knowing what voltages to look for when troubleshooting W210's CAN-B network. This is also a great lesson for a novice like myself to get started with Carsoft 7.4 that should be arriving shortly.
I shall also pull the underdash panel tomorrow & try to locate the DCM there.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No luck finding DCM under the driver's side dash or the left foot panel to the left of foot brake. Carsoft arriving tomorrow.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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There is no DCM

Stumbled onto a Russian site with diagrams and found my car, the 1997 E320, does not have DCMs to control windows. Instead, the function of controlling all four windows is performed by a single Combination Control Module, or N10-1 module, located in the module bay on the passenger side under the hood. In my car it is the last module closest to the firewall. And the Green & Black wires running out of it to the drivers side window are assigned to pins 13 & 12 respectively. Sure enough, as soon as I learned that, my window stopped acting up and now works fine, without me having done a thing to it. I am suspecting a fault somewhere in the CAN bus as raymond- has previously suggested.

Received my Carsoft 7.4 yesterday. Installed it. Went out to the car & hooked up the 38-pin connector under the hood and the program says it is not reading any of my modules or they are not installed. I can get the live engine parameters info but no diagnostic report yet. Trying to re-install the program now.

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Old 10-05-2012, 10:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonflyer View Post
Received my Carsoft 7.4 yesterday. Installed it. Went out to the car & hooked up the 38-pin connector under the hood and the program says it is not reading any of my modules or they are not installed. I can get the live engine parameters info but no diagnostic report yet. Trying to re-install the program now.
If you cannot see the other modules, it normally means that you don't have the multiplexor version. Quite a common scam by sellers to sell a non-multiplexor version as a multiplexed version, since the black interface box looks the same for both models.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes Kobus, I am reading through the posts on this very issue. I bought this unit just so I could clear transmission codes after I replace the conductor plate and now realize that all I can use it for is to measure the tranny temperature at best. The multiplexer is around $100 which is still more expensive then the $70 my indie charges me to clear the tranny.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Check in the R170 forum stickies on how to use a paperclip to get the same functionality as a multiplexor. IIRC it was posted by Bazzle.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Kobus,
Essentially this is exactly what I did earlier today. I removed the backshell of Carsoft's 38-pin plug and found three wires in there. Two of them, connected to pins 1 & 3 are obviously power wires. The third wire was connected to pin 4. I removed it from pin 4 and soldered it onto pin 10 nearby. Went out to test and received a communication error. The noteworthy item is the two LEDs on the generic box. One red & one greed. As soon as I would connect the 38-pin cable to that box, even if my key was not in the ignition, both LEDs would light up. Now, after swapping pin 4 for pin 10, only red LED illuminated until I actually turned the key to ignition position. And, regardless of what position the ignition key was in, I would still get a communication error.

Going to try again tomorrow using the 3-lead banana cable.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I can read & erace transmission module using generic Carsoft box!

Tried the banana paperclip trick today and again got a communication error. Went back to the 38-pin connector & removed its backshell. This time, I had a convenience of a flat circular flange to apply my down force to ensure the plug was all the way seated in the receptacle and voila - got the tranny results. I guess the issue here is insuring sufficient contact. Inserting a heavy duty paper clip into the #10 was not enough. Care must me taken to ensure there is a good electrical contact or you are going to get a com error. I was able to clear the codes and read live data. Great bargain for $44 including delivery!

My tranny codes were:

104 R/P lock solenoid valve defective

116 Starter closing contact (ASK) without Function / Gear box oil temperature sensor: defective

147 Gang not plausible or Gear box slipping

And my question now is: is this something that new conductor plate and connector will fix? Or should I focus on other components?
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