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Help E430 won't start every time

16K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Kobus 
#1 ·
I have a 2001 E430 sport 94,000 miles. Sometimes it cranks like it should but almost half of the time I have to turn the ignition to off and try to crank again. Weird but it seems that if I park it on an incline it tends to not start until the third time - turning it off and back on. When it doesn't crank it turns the motor over for a quarter of a second then stops.

I have spent hours on the internet looking up this problem. This problem started about 12,000 miles ago. I have owned it since it had 68,000 miles.
- I have replaced the CPS sensor with a used one, then replaced it with an aftermarket new one.
- replaced the K40 relay
There are no check engine lights, does it if it is cold, or hot.

It has also idled rough most of the time - since I got it (in 2008). Don't think it has anything to do with it but I do have a K&N filter on it in the oem air box. I have tried using 100% pure gas, but almost always have used 93 premium gas from Shell. Also the passenger side mirror switch sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. When I first got the car it seemed as if someone spilled coke on the passenger side window switch on the console between the seats.

I read something about someone put wd-40 on the flywheel and it fixed it for them - but I haven't tried it yet.

Anyone have any suggestions?http://www.benzworld.org/forums/images/smilies/surrender.gif
Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Electrically - replace the aftermarket CPS sensor with correct Bosch sensor. You are ALWAYS headed for trouble with a non-Bosch CPS sensor.

Does your "rough idle" feeling get better if you shift at a stop to neutral ? If this "rough idle" gets significantly better in neutral - then that feeling is a failed engine mounts(s) and fixed by replacing mounts with genuine Sachs-Boge or Lemfoerder mounts, the non-brand/quasi-brand mounts are a waste of money.

If your "rough idle" is relatively same feeling in drive or neutral - then do a injection side clean up with a does of Stabil Marine Formula in the tank ($9 for 2-dose bottle), replace the fuel filter with Mann or Bosch only ($35 plus hose clamps) - then pull one spark plug to check general condition since plugs are a 100K mile thing. Replacement plugs should only be contemporary Bosch platinum single electrode spec only - don't go fancy. Do search for easy DIY procedure with correct plugs and correct "boot tool". Whole job incl tool like under $170.

Now - your K&N has been a know problem to like 100 owner's, contrary to the opinion oof less than a handful of owners if we include K&N's customer service rep who comes onto our forum on occasion.

Pull the K&N, replace with correct Mann filter for like $14 - and buy a can of MAF cleaner and clean your MAF to have any hope of recovering from the MAF contamination that has been caused by the K&N.

Now - when coming to a braked stop, at times does your E feel like the idle is going to drop below minimum, and feel like the E might choke/die, then it catches itself and runs a idle a bit higher than normal - if any of this feels familar maybe a MAF clean will help short term, but at this stage a genuine Bosch MAF replacement would be highly recommended and at the moment that's like $185 again genuine Bosch.

Is there anything that I missed ? Maybe, not much.
 
#3 ·
Thanks!

I will replace the CPS with the oem soon.

The car has the rough idle no matter if it is park, drive or neutral. It does get a little better when I put it in the winter mode which when it puts it into the next gear it changes the rpms.

I will try the air filter. On the MAF cleaner, is it just Ether (starting fluid), or something else? I have been reading about cleaning it and figure I'm ready for a cleaning anyway.

On the idle, the rpms stay level - when it idles rough or on some occasions when it idles smooth. Just about 500, maybe 550-650.

About every 10 tank fulls I put Lucas injector cleaner in it, helps a little.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try to do this soon, we are having a yard sale this Sat., so we'll see.
 
#4 · (Edited)
The first thing you need to do is spray some lubricant on the flex plate/flywheel. It will take you about 1 minute and I'm almost certain your issue is the starter gear sticking which was the exact same issue I had/have with my E430. It took me almost 12 pages of posts before I got to the bottom of my issue (and trying many, many things that didn't help). See this thread- http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1624347-e430-starting-issue-engages-but-stops.html Your symptoms sound almost exactly as mine.

The lubricant on the flex plate helped but didn't solve the issue. It works well for awhile but then the problem comes back. Somewhere in that thread is the official Mercedes document for the fix. It involves pulling the starter and lubricating the ring gear with "Mercedes paste" which most believe is antiseize. I did put some antiseize on the flex plate/flywheel teeth but it didn't go away completely but did improve. Perhaps if I hit every tooth with antiseize it would be better.

I plan on doing the official fix some time down the road when I replace the motor mounts (pulling the starter will be easier then I believe).


So my advice is to try lubricant first. Start the car (take obvious precautions of chocking wheels, parking brake on, etc) and spray the lubricant on the spinning flex plate. If the problem improves you have found your issue and then you need to decide what you would like to do next.
 
#5 ·
It will take you about 1 minute and I'm almost certain your issue is the starter gear sticking which was the exact same issue I had/have with my E430.
Based on my own experience with two other benzes (not the W210), I would agree that the problem could very well be the starter. Sometimes it is an electrical problem and sometimes to do with the solenoid (Bendix equivalent).

By the time you pull the starter, you might as well replace it. You can find one on ebay for under $100. I wasted a lot of time with neutral switches, ignition switches etc etc before biting the bullet and installing new starter.
 
#6 ·
+1 on starter motor. Your starting problems could very well be the starter motor itself. I belive the lubrication problems were solved on the facelift W210's such as yours. The rest of your problems could be solved with Fabbrisd1 troubshooting steps he suggested. Using non OEM or OE parts on these cars means you have to pay twice.
 
#7 · (Edited)
You guys are getting ahead of yourselves. Read the attached bulletin and fix direct from Mercedes. For the M112/113 engines, the occasional no start where the starter engages but quits is caused by the ring gear binding due to dryness/corrosion.

Reread the last line of the OP's first paragraph. "When it doesn't crank it turns the motor over for a quarter of a second then stops." This is exactly what happened in my E430 and what the bulletin describes. His problem is not electrical or any thing else. It is the gear teeth binding.

A new starter would fix the problem most likely but why should he spend money on something not needed when a couple dollar tube of antiseize and some time would fix it? It is not the bendix or solenoid or an electrical problem. It is the binding of the teeth from the starter to the flywheel.

Start on page 9 in the above thread I linked and you will have your solution and other people that experienced the same problem. Trust me. I went through many headaches trying to figure this out until Witek posted the same info I am posting for you.
 

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#8 ·
I have not tried removing the starter on the W210. But, on our other two cars, removing the starter is a very difficult job. Seeing you have to remove the starter to lube the ring gear, that is why I suggested changing the starter at same time and $70-$80 is not a huge expense to upgrade to a new starter.
 
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