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Old 12-19-2011, 04:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2009
Vehicle: E200k 2002
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Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement

After being quoted $350 for new pulleys (2 of them for 200K model) i decided to replace the bearings instead of the unit.

Draw the layout of the belts especially if you are changing belts as well.
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-1.jpg

Locate the torx (red arrow) and rotate it anti clockwise to release the tension to remove the belt.
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-2-copy.jpg

Remove the nut that holds the metal housing shown below.
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-3.1.jpg

Remove the pulley.
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-3.jpg

See the bearing inside:
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-4.jpg
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-5.jpg

Do the same for the larger pulley (some cars only one belt)
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-6.jpg

Keep the dust cover safe
Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-7.jpg

Measure your bearing. Mine was as follows:
inner diameter 15mm
outer diameter: 35mm
height: 15.9mm
model number 3202

Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-8.jpg

Remove your bearing, you may prefer to measure after the bearing is removed.
As i am discarding my bearing i hit it out with hammer. Don't bend the housing.
Click image for larger version

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Old 12-19-2011, 04:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-9.1.jpg

Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-9.jpg

Press the new bearing into the position.
Note that when pressing the bearing, support the inner housing as it is at a different level to the outer housing and may bend under excess pressure. The silver around the bearing is anti-seize lubricant for easier pressing. The bearing i used was slightly different as it was steal sealed instead of rubber. Rubber is advisable as it is water tight. I only could get steel.

Pulley/belt tensioner bearing replacement-10.jpg

I used a 5202 instead of 3202 for lack of stock. Check the specification sheet of bearing if you are unsure. Some manufactures (SKF) have very similar spec of 3202 and 5202 while others NTN have different spec. I would recommend 3202.

SKF - Product data
http://www.ntn.ca/Catalogues/NTN/A-1000-XI.pdf
http://www.jp.nsk.com/app01/en/ctrg/...iew&pno=e1102j
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Great fix thank you. It inspired me to fix mine the same way, as the tensioner was fine but the bearing was fried. However, when I removed my pulley it was significantly different then the one you described . The bearing was sandwiched between two haves of the pulley. I had to drill out the rivets that held the pulley halves together, separate the halves then tap out the bearing, tap in a new bearing ane rivet the pulley halves together. The bearing was a NTN 6203LHA..very common and inexpensive (under 20 CDN.) I'd include pictures but haven't figures out how to upload them. I got help from a machinist at a brake shop and flipped him 20 bucks for his help..however it is a diy, especially if you have a drill press. I changed it two weeks ago and all is great. There is no need to remove the tensioner from the engine,simply use a 15mm wrench to remove the boolt holding on the bearing dust cap. This was for my 2000 E320. My 1998 E320 wagon had already been upgraded to the newer tensioner.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would advise you check your tensioner ASAP - if you are frying pulley bearings something is amiss with the tensioner..
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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From my understanding by both searching through threads on here and elsewhere and by personal experience (replaced the tensioner and finding the original bearing of the tensioner and its internal workings malfunctioning) I would have a tendency to bite the bullet and replace the tensioner itself and not just the bearing because if it fails it will cost one hell of a lot more than just a tensioner. Just saying.
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Please take note that Xman's engine is one we don't see in the W210 in the states, so his setup is different.

If you have an M112 or M113 engine (the V6 or V8) and your tensioner looks like his, with the bolt sticking out and a nut on the end of it, do yourself a favor and replace the entire tensioner assembly. It has been superseded with a newer design, and the older one can fail catastrophically without warning, and often damages other parts (radiator, hoses, wires, etc.) as it does so.

Pictures of both are in the sticky.

Good luck all.
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok ...thank you all for your suggestions. I only replaced the bearing and all seems great, the tensioer is strong and there isn't any wobble or distortion. the engine is M112. The engine has 200,000 kilometers (120000mi)on it. The only thing I can imagine is that the spring would let go, assuming that it is a spring tensioner device, and I can see that being messy. I will take council from you all and replace the tensioner in its entirety.
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiro View Post
Ok ...thank you all for your suggestions. I only replaced the bearing and all seems great, the tensioer is strong and there isn't any wobble or distortion. the engine is M112. The engine has 200,000 kilometers (120000mi)on it. The only thing I can imagine is that the spring would let go, assuming that it is a spring tensioner device, and I can see that being messy. I will take council from you all and replace the tensioner in its entirety.
It's really great that you took this head on, and thanks for the excellent DIY post. However, I wouldn't advice this for the everyone. By the time it's all done, you probably have spent as much as you would have just getting it done by the shop. I just had belt and tensioner replaced at my local MB shop for about $500. Maybe that's too much but that is a 1yr warranty on the thing and less headache for me. Just my two cents.
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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fabbrisd1 i don't understand how faulty tensioner can "fry" the associated bearings? Maybe my setup is different but i cant draw this link.

Powriv what was faulty in your tensioner if you dont mind me asking?

I notice many people on this forum service out of fear. If you check the part and it is fine then why change it. If there was a recall or known fault then yes i agree, but really i would not recommend replacing every part that may or may not fail owing to some perceived weakness when currently working perfectly and showing no sign of weakness.
There is a term called MTBF (mean time between failure) which can be applied here.

The point of my DIY was that the tensioners were fine and only the bearings were noisy on both pulleys. Why pay $350 (or $500 for Dealer as Darkman says) for part when only $50 worth of part was damaged? Isn't that the point of the forum, to share knowledge to make it easier and cheaper to do it yourself?
My LCD pixel cable was broken, must i buy a whole speedometer as MB don't sell just the loose parts...
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I am not a fan of the pulleys, or the belt tensioner on your engine.

That's what I am trying to communicate to you - and my earlier comment and this comment is to be helpful.

Like the W210 tensioner, this part was also updated; and you have to check VIN to see if shock and roller needs to be updated as well.

I understand the cost of Mercedes parts in your area of the world - and applaud your DIY efforts - but if you have had two pulleys go out in 200K km's - then why the heck do you think your tensioner is fine ? Where do you think that excess tension is coming from, like from France ?
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