e320 BAS/ESP and ABS Malfunction lamp comes on - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 08:48 AM
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e320 BAS/ESP and ABS Malfunction lamp comes on

I just returned from a 60 mile trip in my 2002 E320 with the following problems/symptoms.

While driving at one point I applied the brakes and I received a malfunction indicating that I had a Malfunction "lamp defective", I stopped and checked it and found that I had a right rear brake light out. I proceeded home and during my last 10 miles or so whenever I applied the brakes I could hear what I would describe as a grinding from the left rear wheel, ( no wear warning or other indications of a problem). I completed my trip, applying the brakes very softly and letting the cars momentum dissipate on it own whenever possible. At home I opened the trunk and removed the suspect bulb, checked it seating and reinstalled it after inspecting it, ( filaments looked good). Had my wife turn the key on in the car and start it and apply the brakes. She said she started getting diagnostics (4), lamp defective, ABS-SYSTEM, BRAKE ASSIST (BAS), and ESP, malfunctions. ALSO at this time none of the brake lights worked, not left, right or the one in the rear window. The ABS, and ESP/BAS yellow indicator lights also came on.
I started by changing the original bad bulb, after shutting the car off.
All seemed ok (no malfunctions) then I pressed the brake pedal and all the malfunctions reappeared and I still have no brake lights.
I believe I may need new brake pads/rotor on the left rear ( will change all), but was wondering if the ALL brake lights conditions, is being caused by the other malfunctions, I see where the BAS-ESP is probably being caused by the ABS.
Are the brake lights being controlled by the other systems?
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#2 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 09:43 AM
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addition information e320 BAS/ESP and ABS malfunction

Attached is a picture of the area where I think the grinding occurred.
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 10:42 AM
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You need a new brake light switch. Get the new one at the dealer, the aftermarket ones are flaky. About $25, 30-45 minutes to install if you haven't done one before.

Good luck.

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#4 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 01:03 PM
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How does brake light switch cause all these warning lights?
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#5 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Taylors 420 View Post
How does brake light switch cause all these warning lights?
First things first: Please click user cp and edit details to add your vehicle and location to your profile, it's useful information.

The brake light switch in most cars (and certainly by tradition) does little more than actuate the brake lights. In more and more newer cars, though, it sends signals to the computer about how fast and how hard you're pressing on the brake, which the computer uses in turn to help you and help keep the car stable.

Thus, when the switch fails, the computer can't do those jobs, so it shuts down the systems, and the dash tells you all about it.

BTW, it's unrelated to the OP's lamp malfunction warning, that's just a burned bulb, bad socket, etc. I'm referring to the BAS/ESP/ABS/ETS type warnings that all come at once.

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#6 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 08:31 AM
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update brake switch problem, plot thickens

Well, I took the old switch out and am ready to get a new one. Called my local dealer $36.00 plus tax, online at Europarts direct $23.75 Genuine MB part. So while I'm waiting I decided to do a little more testing of the condition. So I do the following.
I removed the switch, connected the wires back up and taped the plunger part way closed.
I then started the car and let it run, No diagnostics as suspected as this is like first starting the car and not touching the brake, all is fine. I let the car run for a while and all is fine.
I then applied the brake and held it down for about 30-45 seconds, It then gives me the 3 diagnostics as before even though the plunger is fixed in the "no brake applied " position. Would this still indicate the switch or is there really an ABS malfunction?
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#7 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 09:51 AM
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$18

at Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips
replace it. Or you can spend the time and dig out your multimeter and pull the switch and test the Resistance across the two main posts. But by the time you do that and determine the switch is bad you could have replaced it already.
Then examine the rear pads. It is very easy to look at them to determine how much material is remaining.There is no wear indicator on the drivers rear side.
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#8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 10:05 AM
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Well you have really been BAZ on this one.

First of all the break light switch on your and my car does nothing more than allow the circuit to light up the break lights, while at the same time advising other modules on the car that the break is applied-----what it does NOT do is advise about speed, the traction control module does that or about how hard you are pressing the break, the BAS does that.

I call the above thinking MAF and PARK syndrome.

Without testing anything, folks will come out of the wood work yelling it's the MAF or PARK because in their mind it is the first simple solution and they figure if the advice was bad what's 32 bucks in a switch part or 300 bucks for a MAF that is not required.

They are correct however that a faulty break light switch will fault a number of system, however what they don't tell you is that there are about 32 other areas in the three systems that produce the same results.

How do we know this! Because MB Star/Xentry diagnostics tells us so! The issue is that this is dealer level diagnostic software, therefore where do you have to go to find the real problem----------the dealer or Pee Wee's shop who has a chicom knock system.

The bad news is that it costs money to find the not so obvious problem or you can continue with your approach and start replacing components until the problem is solved-------Very expensive----------

Get the car scanned and solve the problem!!
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#9 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdsjsb View Post
Well, I took the old switch out and am ready to get a new one. Called my local dealer $36.00 plus tax, online at Europarts direct $23.75 Genuine MB part. So while I'm waiting I decided to do a little more testing of the condition. So I do the following.
I removed the switch, connected the wires back up and taped the plunger part way closed.
I then started the car and let it run, No diagnostics as suspected as this is like first starting the car and not touching the brake, all is fine. I let the car run for a while and all is fine.
I then applied the brake and held it down for about 30-45 seconds, It then gives me the 3 diagnostics as before even though the plunger is fixed in the "no brake applied " position. Would this still indicate the switch or is there really an ABS malfunction?
Your test is flukey. The systems work in concert, so you're pressurizing the braking system and alerting BAS and ABS modules while the computer is not getting a signal that the brake pedal has been pressed...keep messing around and maybe you'll be successful in triggering a hard code that you'll have to pay the dealer to clear. (That's the other reason I suggested getting it at the dealer, then you get it and change it instead of being tempted to muck around with it while waiting for a part to arrive.)


BOTTOM LINE: 99% of the time when you get the three errors together it is the brake light switch. Whether 18 or 25 or 32 dollars, all are cheaper than running full SDS, are they not? (And a roll of tape and a multimeter cannot replace SDS, either.)


So your choices are simple.

A: Replace the switch with a genuine part and see if the issue is resolved.

B: Go to the dealer (or an indy with up to date SDS) and pay them to run diagnostics. (The caveat here is that there are plenty of tales of folks who did just this, and after spending a grand or more to replace myriad sensors, it turned out to be the brake light switch.)


However, there is no other "testing" you can do that will result in a magical Harry Potter moment. Leave the poor thing alone until the switch comes. If it fixes it, great. If it doesn't, you may have exacerbated the problem with your attempts, but in any event it's time for expensive diagnostics.

Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. (Winston Churchill)
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#10 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 10:43 AM
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<snipped, raymond>

For the 99 time his symptoms and conditions all point towards the bls.
For 18bucks and 15 minutes r/r it since in the 1 in 32???

<snipped, raymond>

BTW a maf is not 300bucks obviously you shop parts at the dealer
And nobody in the know suggests tossing one in without knowing the codes displayed indicating failure or the conditions indicative of such failure.

<snipped, raymond>


00-02 drivers side self dimming heated mirror
17mm special spark boot tool
O2 plug and play sensors
16mm spring loaded swivel spark socket
trans dipstick and magnet


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Last edited by raymond-; 08-04-2011 at 09:36 PM.
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