Has anyone here got any advice on removing the Inner Tie rod ball joint? Currently got the car jacked up and have to boot off. I've looked in the stickies and searched the forum though all I can find is information on the outer tie rod. I don't want to damage anything so if someone has done this I would greatly appreciate the input. Thanks
end don't remember size 36 or ? but it is big or large adjustable wrench and a pair of channel locks. loosen the collar nut loosen the flats with the channel lock on the inner tie rod hump
the new rods should have a nut and collar lock.
Replace the gaiters and new clamps.
Lucky you don't need to install oil in the gaiters like my old Mgb's.
I just did one of the Mgb's rods and gaiters so not looking at the w210 I am going by memory been awhile since the wagons needed inners and i forget if it has the collar nut or not. You will know it when you see it:thumbsup:
Get it aligned when completed. hunter machine dealer or good indie shop with hunter
Keep count of the threads or mark with white paint so you keep it close before driving to the shop for align
Thank you ohlord. I let it soak with some penetrating spray overnight and got it off this morning.
I'm somewhat embarrassed to say the lower ball joint is a real pain to get off and I've been at it for a few hours today. I've got a lump hammer and the ball joint splitter and with copious solvent I still cannot break it free with heavy wacks with the hammer. I've not known one this tight before. Any other advice would be greatly received. I'm starting to get to the point of deciding to leave it. Most of the play was in the inner tie rod ball joint anyway though it would be nice to get the ball joints done while I have it jacked up. I have soaked it again and will try again in the morning. Thanks!
smacking it on the side while turned all the way outboard will pop it loose.
That or a bigger hammer.:thumbsup:
My tool box consists of
a wrench
A large hammer
A condom
if I can't twist it off
I hammer it off
If I can't hammer it off
F*** it
Haha. Finally got it off with another overnight soak and upgrading to a larger 4lb lump hammer! Hitting it on the lower edge of the hub carrier and countering with another hammer held on the end of the ball joint bolt finally freed it.
It's made a huge difference to the car. Feels much tighter and no more wondering at freeway speed. Thanks for the help and advice.
Resurrecting this thread because there isn't much here about inner tie rod replacement. The only thing I can add at this point and until I get back into the job next month is that the wrench flats on the inner joint are not 36mm; they are 41mm. So don't go ordering a 36mm wrench. I don't know yet the wrench size to hold the steering gear side and will add this info when I get back to the job.
Finally getting back to finishing up this project.
Here's what I found regarding wrench sizes for the inner tie rod replacement.
The wrench flat on the rack accommodates a 24mm wrench.
The wrench size for the OEM MB inner tie rods I removed is 36mm.
The wrench size for the replacement Karlyn inner tie rods is 41mm.
There was no locking washer or washer of any kind on the OEM inner tie rods I removed. The replacement Karlyn tie rods have a tabbed washer, so not sure what to do with it, i.e., what side the tabs should face- in or out, or whether I should use it at all.
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