also for those who would like a little more info on what slot has to line up with what pin on the selector mechanism here are some additional photos

the slot with the red arrow in one picture slides up the pin circled in red in the other and the detent roller goes into the slot with the red/green arrow when the car is in Park on the shifter.

and finally the old speed sensor on the removed contactor plate just hanging pathetically - just no spring left :surrender:

 

You also replaced that connector plug too - right ? It's the internal seepage that iwill kick your butt. Use MB brand part only for $15-$17, the China knockoff's like URO are dubious quality for this part..

Great job, glad it all worked out for you.

 

Thanks Fabbrisd1
yes new connector plug from Mercedes. Dont know if it had been replaced before as the one I removed had clear o rings and the mercedes plug had black o rings, probably just a supplier change.
cheers
Barri

 

hey nice work!
I'm going through this really soon..
Have you noticed if your speed sensor on your new conductor plate is moving just a bit?
Mine is not completly hardly fixed and it kind of moves 2mm up and down with a bit of resistance, but still its not perfectly solid

 

mine moved up and down a little on the new plate too. but it was a lot less than the old one. I also found the new one moved straight up and down whilst the old one moved more on one side than the other. All of the transmission faults have gone now that I have the new plug and plate though.
good luck with yours
cheers
Barri

 

Thanks man!
That was what I was expecting.. seen I was affraid my new part was already damaged! I can see it's not

also.. I think a BIG part of the problems are related to the connector too!

My indy could not access the TCM on his Star Diagnosis because the conection is bad!

 

...My indy could not access the TCM on his Star Diagnosis because the conection is bad!

Do you mean your plug or his cable? There is an adapter that can be used to hook the Star to the OBD2 connector under the dash, but I'm not sure we can read transmission codes that way; just that it will connect and the Star will work. I just saw my dealer tech do that for my last scan.

 

I was quite surprised that my ultragauge actually picked up and read the transmission codes from the OBD connector and cleared them too. I bought a 32 pin connector and multiplexer as well but found its the 16 pin cheap type so I canot see some of the body functions on carsoft but all of the engine and transmission systems etc. Next purchase will be the full 32 pin multiplexer!

 

how do i clear the code,i replaced the conductor plate,new harness plug,and fluid ,the error code wont clear, any help ,would be great,most of the so called mb mechanics ive talked to are goofs most get mad cause i did the work and they say i messed up and they need to replace the trans, some say the trans computor needs to be flashed ,others say no, so im lost cause i dont know what to do

 

Its not the physical obdII that was not working..The indy could not access the TCM information on his star.. it would not let him access this info, the Star saying that it cannot access and connect to the TCM.. which is proably caused by bad connection of the tranny connecter on the tranny (since the other side is well plugged, clean with no oil on the cable/pins neither inside the transmission module as I've opened it before

 

guru - nice job on the photos to show others what is involved in the conductor plate changeout. You saved yourself a bundle.

I had something similar on our E420, but was unable to clear the speed sensor fault in the Transmission Control Unit with an ordinary scanner. The Engine Control Unit gets a CEL signal from the Transmission Control Unit for the speed sensor fault, which would clear the dashboard light with a hand held scanner, but the TCU fault kept repeating to the ECU as soon as I tried to drive the car. Battery disconnect did not reset TCU in my case. The only way I could clear the TCU fault for good was with an indy using STAR. (It was like driving Miss Daisy going to the indy while in electric Limp Home - 2nd gear.)

 

conductor plate Pin

Gentleman thanks for all the info to assist in exchanging my plate. I ran into one minor problem. As I was lowering the valvue body (and no where level did i have it, a pin fell out. (see attachment, shown on filter) Does anyone know where this go too?

 

2003MBE,
I'm thinking it is the roller pin that engages reverse. In the first part of this thread there is a picture showing where the pin needs to engage when you install the conductor plate.
HTH Skippy


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

nope, I see the roller pin and it lined up when i lined the v-body... Killing me, cant understand why i have this pin that drop removing the v-body and cant figure out where it came from. HELP!

 

I cant see the metal roller on your plate - assume you have removed it and its difficult to see the size but could it be the pin that goes through the metal arms and holds the roller, circled in red here. Mine fell out a couple of times and I had to search for the roller. cant fall out in place but can when its apart. Its over 30mm long as I remember, keeps the 2 steel legs even and allows the "bead" to roll

 

I'm like crazy looking for the location in the valve body of this pin shown in the picture of mbe500 and can't fin it. Helppp

 

If its not the one circled above the only other dowel in the valve block is a locating dowel that goes through all of the plates. It should not fall out though but anything is possible its marked in the picture as being the only dowel.
check and see if you have a hole in the plate. Its the only thing that size in the whole valve body
cheers
Barri

 

Thanks a lot!!! Definitely it looks like the dowel pin, I installed without it. It runs fine but its just the first day. What would be the purpose of that dowel pin if you now. Again thank a lot.

 

whenyou disassenble the valve block the dowel pin goes between the top and bottom plates to allow you to align everything properly. Its not a functioning part of the valve block but critical to assembly

 

Ok! I just replaced a conductor plate, and found the pin in the floor before I even remove the conductor plate from the valve body, I hope doesn't give me any problems because that valve body it's really heavy, the car runs great again! Thanks a lot!

 

That metal pin is needed. It’s not just for alignment of the valve body plates. The long metal pin is called the dowel rod and is part #2 in this diagram. It’s required to hold part # 3, the roller pin arm, in place. The roller pin arm attaches to the underside of the valve body with the dowel rod and a short bolt (part # 4). Without the dowel rod the roller pin arm can rotate around the short bolt (part # 4). The dowel rod holds the left end of the roller pin arm in place.
The dowel rod will not come out of the valve body unless you remove the roller pin arm, which isn’t a necessary removal unless you’re replacing that part. The dowel rod can also fall out of the top on the valve body if the conductor plate is removed and the valve body is turned upside-down.
Reinstalling the dowel rod: With the roller pin arm still removed, push the dowel rod into the underside of the valve body in the only hole that will fit it. This hole is not threaded. With the conductor plate attached to the valve body, the dowel rod should stick out of the underside of the valve body about 1/4 inch. This nub that sticks out is what fits into the end of the roller pin arm.
The conductor plate is what prevents the dowel rod from going in any further. If the dowel pin will not go in as far as it should then you have an obstruction, which can happen if you removed the conductor plate and broke off a part of it. To remove the obstruction you’ll need to remove the conductor plate by removing the three bolts (parts # 13, 13, and 14) that hold the six solenoids. If the conductor plate does not then lift off the valve body easily you can slide a rod (a thin screwdriver or the dowel rod itself) into the underside of the valve body where the dowel rod goes and l lightly tap the rod with a hammer. Once the conductor plate is removed you may need do the same (tapping the dowel rod through the hole) until the obstruction comes out. View attachment 2722717

 

Hello

Please provide the model year and model of your car.

You need to get a scanner that can access the transmission control module. It is not a 32 pin connector I think he meant 38 pin diagnostic connector, under the hood. Depending on the model year you can select one out of several . One example.

https://www.amazon.com/FOXWELL-Diag...r_1_4?keywords=foxwell+nt520+mercedes+38+pin&qid=1566958398&s=automotive&sr=1-4


What is the error code and and what made you think it was the conductor plate ?

 

it is a 2000 e430 4 matic.code is po715, i have a foxwell ,but its a regular scanner ,if i buy the one you say ill be able to clear the code,i also noticed i have bad throttle response ,i heard that can be related to the code,or needs to be driven at least to 40 shifts, can also be a fuel filter issue,let me also say i bought this car at the end of last summer ,it had front end damage,ive been repairing various body issues ,fender ,hood,grill , bumper,headlights,also replaced the spark wires and injectors,only code i get is the po715,i really havnt driven the car because its has a lot of issues,i also am planning on replacing the brakes ,but dont want to put any more money into it until i know if the trans is shot,thanks for any help,it turned out to be a really nice car and i hope its fixable

 

I am so sorry about your injuries, and I hope you feel much better soon. If you lived near me, I would have come and cleared your transmission code with my equipment, free of charge. I hope someone forum member with a proper scanner living near to you could help you out. The other option is to find a local repair shop which has a scanner that can do the job. Many use Autel, Snap-On, Delphi, etc, universal scanners with attachments), and charge you less than MB shops. They should scan all modules generate a print-out and then clear.

The P0715 is a conductor plate speed sensor issue (or possibly contamination of the transmission connector, Transmission Control Module with ATF). The transmission goes into the electrical limp mode ( no auto gear shifts when driving) and can only be cleared at both ECU (the engine computer) and the TCM (transmission Control Module) after repair. If you did the proper replacement of conductor plate, new filter, ATF, transmission connector adapter, in all likelihood, the transmission itself is fine.

 

Often that code can be a "false" code caused by "bad" comm error between the tranny and transmission control module.

Did you replace the Tranny Adapter Plug when you did the conductor plate ? When replacing that connector important to replace with Gen MB or Gen Mopar only.. like $14 part, the China made replacements tend to be No Good,

Next you need to pull the Transmission Control Module up in the engine compartment - "often" you will find that board contaminated with tranny fluid - there are cases where the contamination may not be visible - it's caused by fluid "wicking" up the cable over time from the internally leaking adapter plug at the transmission.

With a $9 can of MAF Cleaner - flood clean both sides of the board to "flood" the contamination off the board and off the edge - spray clean the connector inside the box where you pulled the board - let air dry thoroughly (no heat) and reinstall.

 

thanks guys,i replaced the conductor plate,tested all the sensors,i also cleaned up the valve body as best as could be,i changed the adapter plug,also cleaned out the opening for the plug,i then replace the filter and gasket,filled it with trans fluid when it reached proper temp,the car seems to operate fine,i cant be 100 % because the car sat outdoor under a cover for a year,it does need a brake job so i could also have brakes hanging up a bit,i dont want to do the brakes until im sure the tranny is ok,its a reall nice car after i did all the work on it but if theres a trans issue other than the code ,itll have to go,if there are any mechanics close to me i would appreciate your assistance,dont have alot to spend as im on disability but ill figure it out,i live in MELROSE PARK ILLINOIS,CLOSE TO OHARE AIRPORT,thanks again guys

 

Hopefully you used a national brand or Mercedes Conductor plate as some of those cheap ebay units cause more problems than what they are worth

Martin

 

How are the conductor plates from FCP Euro?

 

got it from pelican

 

so a quick question,i think i found someone to scan the trans module,so even though ive changed my conductor plate and harness adaptor,if i dont erase the p0715 code will the car still be in limp mode

 

In most cases, yes. You need to get the fault code erased from the Transmission Control Unit as well as the ECU.