AC Blowing Warm Air Left Side/Cold on Right - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 07:49 AM
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Question AC Blowing Warm Air Left Side/Cold on Right

On my mothers 2000 E430 she's getting warmer air out of the right half of her vents than the very cold air coming from the right side vents.

The dealer says it's indicative of a evaporator core having a leak. Quoted me about $4500.00 to do it.

To me, if it had a leak, then the ac shouldn't be blowing cold AT ALL. I was thinking more along the lines of it bleeding outside air in on that side, or air from the heater core from a door that's not fully closing. The left and right side are just fighting it out now.

I pulled the DTC's from the Climate Controls' LCD readout (this was the day after the dealer had the car).

B1234 - Sun sensor (B32)
B1416 - Coolant circulation pump (M13)
EFF

My 70 yr old mom does chemo every other week, this is Texas, she 'gots to have' her AC. Right now she's driving my 01 E430 while I try to get this handled.

Any knowledgable help would be appreciated.

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Other family Mercs - 97 E420, '99 E320 Wagon & '00 E430
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 07:59 AM
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Is the cold side "Real" cold or is one side hot and other cool? Mine was like that and all it needed was a top off of refrigerant. Check the sticky's for "Duo valve". This valve controls the coolant going to each side of the heater core. It's possible that one side is stuck and keeping the heater core hot all the time, even when AC is on.

I've never done the job but the DIY looks simple.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...-cleaning.html

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#3 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 08:08 AM
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Appreciate the seriousness of the matter. You recovered about a third of the info with the faults. Now go back to the stickies and run the actual value test. Thats the data generated by all the AC sensors on the car. Stop at number 8. Report the data and I am sure you will get assistance.

The faults you have recovered, sun sensor impacts fan speed in relationship to the inside car temp and radiance of the sun. The coolant circulation pump impacts heating the car after the engine has stopped and you selected the recirculate button on the AC control.

Non of your faults relate to the loss of cooling on one side. Good luck

Last edited by Plutoe; 04-15-2011 at 08:10 AM.
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#4 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 08:12 AM
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The other side is COLD. I saw the DIY about the DuoValve and am keeping that in mind. It seems more like the left side is bleeding outside air in more than the heater being stuck on. It feels like outside ambient air (hot during the day/cooler at night). Although this could just be the left and right side of the car battling, with the AC more effective after the sun goes down.

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#5 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 08:13 AM
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Top up the refrigerent at this stage and all should come back to normal.

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#6 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plutoe View Post
Appreciate the seriousness of the matter. You recovered about a third of the info with the faults. Now go back to the stickies and run the actual value test. Thats the data generated by all the AC sensors on the car. Stop at number 8. Report the data and I am sure you will get assistance.
How do you run the Actual Value Test? I'm not seeing that, or do you need some sort of scanner?

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#7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 09:16 AM
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My car had this a few weeks ago. Dealer told me that it was common for the right side to be colder than the left when the system was low on refrigerant.

I was thinking it was the Duo-valve and wanted this fixed before the warranty ran out - the difference in the temps was not all that great. Sure enough -- leak at one of the sensors.


A quick check on the duo valve: Put the system on Low -- EC for economy -- and low fan speed -- feel the air. The air should not be heated. Obviously do this with a hot running engine.
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 12:49 PM
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Forget the Duo valve, that's all black magic, the faults did not indicate that was a problem. You will run your tail ragged with that type of stuff. To get the "actual value data" do the following.

Start the car and let it warm up, press the AC auto button, set both sides to 72 degrees, then press REST for at least five seconds----The left display will show a number 1 and the incar temp-----Now press the auto button and number 2 with data will come up----Press the auto button until you have gotten to number 8-----------To exit the program press REST.

Remember to write down the number and corresponding data before you exit the program. Good luck!!
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 430Driver View Post
How do you run the Actual Value Test? I'm not seeing that, or do you need some sort of scanner?
This is in the stickies, although eclassbenz is reworking the pages so the link in the stickies isn't working properly.

Anyway, this is a more complete explanation of the process. Good luck.

Air Conditioning Diagnosis | EClassBenz.com

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#10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 03:57 PM
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>>B1416 - Coolant circulation pump (M13)
Maybe the dealer saw that B1416 then quoted $4500.

I had left warm, right cold problem before. "Servicing" the duovalve following the stickies did not help. The values of sensor#3, #4 were still way off from each other; their difference was as much as 15. I think Matt L once said that #3, #4 should read about 2 or 3 from each other when duovalve worked. Anyway, I charged a little more refrigerant into the AC, putting the can upside down. On the gauge, there was a blue zone for filled pressure, I went for the border line between blue and yellow. Both vent sides blew cold right after I did that. Sensor #7 fluctuated between 15-17 at idle. In my other car, sensor#7 reads 15 but the AC worked perfectly.
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