Date registered: Jul 2006
Vehicle: 1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
Location: NW Arkansas, La Jolla CA, Hong Kong
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The China regulators are OK for the price, like $43, the OE is like $80.
The window does appear heavy, but the mote is string and the regulator gives a straight lift, no worries.
Drilling out the existing steel rivets can is the most exhaustive part of the regulator replacement job, see my previous post for the very-very-correct drill bit size which makes that job a whole lot easier by properly drilling off the head.
A magnetic pick up tool comes in handy getting the sharp metal piieces back up out of the door panel without any nips to the fingers and without the need to vacuum.
Replacement 1/8" aluminum pop rivets do a good decent job if they are set correctly. At Harbor Freight the alum pop rivet hand tool and rivets are like under $10 for the whole shebang.
If you have broken any nylon panel fasteners, they are replaceable from the dealer at like a outrageous $2 each, but as compared to the aftermarket lower price for a 10 pc bag + shipping, makes the 2-3-4 you really need from the dealer not a big sacrifice.
On the passenger window switch - this switch generally gets less used, and is not more likely to "fail" than the driver's switch. You might try spraying MAF cleaner, or spraying a Radio Shack DeoxIT cleaner (great product) I have had good result from cleaning that switch since I believe that the switch settles on itself and a little sugary or syrupy spillage there (quite common from the drink holder) is the most frequent cause of passenger window switch hesitation. You spray it in the side gap of the switch cap as best you can, no need to remove the switch panel, and work the switch back and forth. The DeoxIT is a great cleaner, and residue free MAF cleaner is a good thing to have anyway, so its a toss up between those two. I also clean the window wire terminal connectors before setting them back in.
Keep the faith !