1997 E420 w210 ignition tumbler problem - Mercedes-Benz Forum
 
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 05:57 PM
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1997 E420 w210 ignition tumbler problem

I have a 1997 E420, Black Opal, with 202K.

The key, which is a switch blade, will not move the ignition switch at all. As one previous post said, it kind of slammed shut like "fort knox" the last time--yesterday. I have read most of the previous posts on this topic but I'm still confused on what to do next after all my spraying, wiggling, vibrating and heating--that is plan B.

So far I know that I have to cut the lock pin out, and possibly drill the tumbler out. I really don't want to replace anything that I don't have to i.e. lock pin, if possible.

Is anybody up to the task of providing me with extensive DIY instructions?

Thanks in advance
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 06:20 PM
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We do have one pretty long topic about the issue here, but when I had the problem I found lot of tips on W123 section, unfortunately on competition forum. Find the old topic and add to it.
Drilling the tumbler might be extremely expensive, since most likely it will release permanent wheel blockade. Members had lot of success using jigsaws for vibrating the tumbler while turning it.
Nobody reported using wife's vibrator
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 06:22 PM
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All I can add is 202,000 miles with the original tumbler sounds like a record. Good luck with the fix.

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#4 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 06:38 PM
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I replaced the tumbler at 225k
But have been spraying it for a year, before I bit the bullet before selling.
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#5 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty88 View Post
I have a 1997 E420, Black Opal, with 202K.

The key, which is a switch blade, will not move the ignition switch at all. As one previous post said, it kind of slammed shut like "fort knox" the last time--yesterday. I have read most of the previous posts on this topic but I'm still confused on what to do next after all my spraying, wiggling, vibrating and heating--that is plan B.

So far I know that I have to cut the lock pin out, and possibly drill the tumbler out. I really don't want to replace anything that I don't have to i.e. lock pin, if possible.

Is anybody up to the task of providing me with extensive DIY instructions?

Thanks in advance
First, make sure the steering wheel isn't "locked" and binding the key. Often, if the steering wheel is moved after the key is removed and clicks into the locked position, it puts enough pressure on the mechanism to make it hard to turn the key. The solution is to move the steering wheel while turning the key to find a position that doesn't bind.

If that fails, and If it's the original blade key, spend $10 and get a new key from the dealer, to replace the key in the remote and see if it works. A key that old with that many miles may have worn enough to not move the tumblers anymore. It will take 1 day to get a key from the dealer, bring the vin, registration and your drivers license.

Or, if you have any of the other original keys, see if they work. If none work and one or more is unworn, then the problem is likely in the tumbler.


--------His------------Hers-------

97 SL500 Imperial Red
/Parchment Leather/Black Top


Chromed OEM wheels, Akebono's, H1+90 fog, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, Rostra Lumbar support, Check seat heaters, Bilstein's, Parrot Bluetooth, GG Bailey Custom cargo mat, GG Bailey trunk mat, Real Burlwood Instrument Cluster w Chrome rings, Burlwood & Chrome shift surround, Euro headlights with Osram 70W/65W H-4's, clear corners, Silverstar corner lamps, Euro Trunk mount Warning triangle, SL600 Burlwood armrest trim & Burlwood cupholder sliding cover, Kahtec flashing third brake light (CHMSL)


97 E420 Royal Indigo/Grey Leather

Raintracker wiper, Rostra Lumbar support, Parrott Bluetooth, 17" chrome AMG replica wheels, Bilstein's, Akebono's, smoked marker lights, Osram 65W H7's, H1+90 fog, Rear Seat Child restraint Tether, Burlwood/Leather shift knob, OEM Mudflaps, DRL's, Becker Aux input

Last edited by e-420; 02-03-2010 at 06:49 PM.
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#6 (permalink) Old 02-03-2010, 08:54 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I did a search on the jig saw method, but I was unable to find it. What does it involve, other than a jig saw. If it involves vibrating, I already tried that with a palm sander, which was awkward.

Tomorrow I'll order a new key. Also I'm going to get some graphite lube and air compress (120psi) it into the key hole. Just maybe...this SOB will fudge. I tried WD40 and brake cleaner--I don't think either were welcome.
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 06:12 PM
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What do I do next?

I have the tumbler on order, but I'm not sure what to do after I get it. I have a few questions:

How do I seperate the black ignition unit in the picture?

Where is the lock pin and what do I have do with it? Do I have to replace it--is it totally necessary?

Orginally, the reason why I've gone this far is because my key will not go to position one.

Thanks in advance
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#8 (permalink) Old 02-06-2010, 09:25 PM
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I hope you didn't set the wheel blockade getting to this point?
We already have at least 3 topics on the issue having some good pictures, but having them posted one here and one there they are not useful.
I would ask moderator to combine the threads if that is possible?
In the other thread Prof Sir Lou posted a link to video that clearly shows how to remove tumbler in few seconds.
All it takes is with key in position 2 turn the black ring 90 degrees CCV and slide it off.
That looks easy on the picture with clean mechanism. In my case I had to pound it off, what put me in dead lock.
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