Vehicle: E300TD 1997 W210 Running on WVO and a % of dino...
Location: scotland, Edinburgh
Posts: 1,192
Done the diff side seals.
I swapped diff a month ago but the one I got was leaking from the pinion and I learned a wee too late that it was not a good sign...
Anyway, I took the old diff and just replaced the side seals as it was leaking, next week, I'll do another swap. Here is today's work with few little tricks I learn along.
The clips inside were a pain for me to remove. A coat hanger gave me enought grip to get it out
For removing the old protective plate I used a plier and with a bit of leverage, it went all easy.
To install the new plate I used 2 piece of wood and a hammer, it did slightly bend it in one corner, but nothing bad.
To take the old seal out, just inserted a long tyre removal bar and hammered the bar away from the diff, it just pop out no bother.
I think its about it.
Olivier
Vehicle: E300TD 1997 W210 Running on WVO and a % of dino...
Location: scotland, Edinburgh
Posts: 1,192
Thank you.
I got a clunk with both diff. when you are under the car and turn the propshaft there is a wee play too? I guess I'll live with it now.
I have changed the prop bearing already and still the same?
This one was leaking, as I got the other on the car, this gave me the oportunity to fix it and put it back soon.
The only bother I have is that when I remove this one it fell on the ground, and on the pinion... I hope the bearings did not took a bad hit with this...
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Olivier. Not something I'd attempt to do myself though. Front seal on mine has a leak that does not even drip on the garage floor - it just bothers me a little.
Vehicle: E300TD 1997 W210 Running on WVO and a % of dino...
Location: scotland, Edinburgh
Posts: 1,192
The front one is a nightmare as really technical. Something I don't want to touch either.
There is a crush washer between the 2 pinion's bearings, and this need to be torque at a real spec and you need the tool to mesure it etc... This is why the diff on the car now is going south as the flange as been removed with hammering on it, then put back in place again hammering it. It was badly leaking when I got it and I thought it was just a matter of tiding the nut a wee bit more, nope. The washer was crushed/ disturbed and once this is is done, too late, the bearings are not holding into place properly, failure is rapid. You'll need to bring it to a specialist to get it done. Also today MB told me that the front seal changed and that you need to buy the flange as well if you want to replace it, this cost 100 pounds, 5.70 for the seal and a wooping 86.25 for the flange and 8 pounds for a new nut. Ouach!
Olivier
Thanks again for the praise
The front isn't so bad if all you need to do is renew the seal. You do need to properly crush the new spacer, but basically you set it to where it was when you took it apart.
It is replacing the pinion shaft that is a royal pain on any final drive. I have never done it on a Benz, but it is a multi-step process. First you must get the carrier bearings set without the pinion in place by adding or removing shims, then install the pinion without the carrier so you can measure the projection. Set the projection of the pinion by adding or removing shims, set the crush sleeve by torquing the nut, then set the ring gear lash by transferring carrier bearing shims from side to side. I do not really want to have to do that job again.
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