Fuel Pressure Regulator - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 08:35 PM
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Fuel Pressure Regulator

Anybody can confirm if there is fuel pressure regulator built on 2001 W210?

Every time I have to wait 4 seconds or so to let the fuel pump finish buzzing before starting the car, I begin to suspect the fuel pressure regulator is due and needs to be replaced. I was told by an unconfirmed source however that this part never exists on my car. Can anybody throw in some expert advice....? ...or in your opinion the time lag in start is due to some other parts like the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay, or the spark plug.
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 09:22 PM
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I'm trying to solve this question also... finally I found something.

"Fuel supply - The system pressure regulator is integrated into the fuel filter, the fuel return line from the engine to the tank has been eliminited."

Zaxler, any hints for you?
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#3 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hw230 View Post
"Fuel supply - The system pressure regulator is integrated into the fuel filter, the fuel return line from the engine to the tank has been eliminited."
early w210 using m104 and m119 motors had fuel pressure regulators, but starting in 1998 with m112 and m113 no fuel pressure regulator. integration of fpr into fuel filter must explain why fuel filter on m104 and m119 costs 3x less then m112 and m113.
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 07:53 PM
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Post No fuel at the injectors

I have a 1991 190E 2.6L (W201-M103) that won't start. There is no fuel going to the injectors. The fuel pressure at the fuel distributor is over 100 psi (8 bar) which is much higher than the 55 psi (4 bar) listed in the specs. I checked the gauge against 3 other gauges and it appears to be OK.
Seems the fuel distributor works on differential pressure so just having fuel at the inlet may not mean fuel gets through the system. Is it possible the fuel pressure regulator is bad or am I missing something here? The OVP device has been replaced recently.
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 08:54 PM
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To be frank, honestly you should not be hearing a "buzz".

1) I would choose to replace the fuel filter first, and note this is a part that has both China non-name knock-off's and the correct OE part. The correct OE part should be used, the China knock-off's have very short life as compared to the original OE part.
If the new fuel filter does not solve this issue, then you can look later to replace the fuel pump and the same China-knockoff-no, OE part-yes rules apply.

2) The window issue might be a battery if the car was not running, but most commonly when this problem is reported it when the car is running and that most often is a switch problem, and the center console switch plate is one mechanism which is only available as a OE part.

If you are suspecting your battery for other reasons, then best to replace the battery.. normally if you suspect the battery, you do want to replace it, since once it really "dies" you will be dead-in-the-water on the road (or in you case at a parking garage) which is the least desirable thing. you have a ton of auto batteries in HK, best to make sure you get one (standard capacity OK) that fits correctly under the back seat and importantly has the proper vent tube connection that will match the existing MB battery vent tube to vent the battery fumes down and outside the car to prevent future corrosion in that area.

Keep the beat !
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#6 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 10:23 AM
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There could be a mis-understanding here. I hear a sound with key in position 2 but it sounds more like the whirring sound of a pump. I'm told this is normal and I think it is the fuel pump making the noise.

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#7 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 01:25 PM
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Zaxler,
If I were you I will take fab's approach to fix your problem. I have 2 MB, both are 00 & 01, I did not need to hear any sound to start or wait to start the car. Your fuel line must drained out of fuel at the port and the fuel pressure must be depleted while your engine is not running. That is the reason that takes you few or more than 10 seconds at key position 2 to start your car. Why your fuel is lost in your fuel line ? You must get a bad fuel valve leaked, this fuel valve may be a separated stand by itself unit or incorporated into your fuel pump. You must research this issue and replace the proper unit. Your fuel pump should not run when your engine is not running, but the fuel pressure at the port should be maintained at certain PSI, so you can start your engine without any waiting. This is a design for any EFI engine.

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#8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 01:29 PM
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Your fuel line has two ends, one is the supply side from the fuel pump and the other is the return side, which any extra fuel not being used is return to the tank. There should be a check valve at both end to maintained the proper pressure at the fuel line.

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#9 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 01:35 PM
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Zaxler,
From reading the above diagram, I will replace the fuel filter, which has a supply side fuel regulator (55/1) and the fuel purge valve (Y58/1). that should able to maintain the fuel pressure in at your ports.

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#10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 08:16 PM
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The mystery is that this start delay never happens once in the past 10 days. Never do I wait 1 second, at pos 2 or 3. If fuel valve / fuel regulators were faulty, the delay should have happened all the time and not intermittently, about 20%,like 10 days before, don't you agree?

Last edited by Zaxler; 06-17-2009 at 05:59 AM.
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