Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
Right rear window regulator/slider, crash boom bang pictorial repair $6.95
My Bad the new price is $7.90 free shipping on orders over $50.00 so get an extra window bushing/slider and your normal maintenance items all at the same time.
If you own a W210 it is not a question of "if" the rear window regulator/slider will fail but when. You can count on it, further more if one fails the other will fail, as usual at the worst possible time.
Well first things first, I would like to thank all that went before me
posting information, pics, part numbers and DIY tips concerning the rear window regulator in the W210. I would encourage any one attempting a repair to look over a few other DIY posts, here are some good ones.
OK so I was holding down on what I thought was the trunk release on my key it takes awhile to open, but in reality it was the unlock button and the windows and sunroof started to open. Then crash bang boom
I knew what had happened and luckily was prepared for it. I had an extra green bushing/slider. DCP40934.jpg
It will be necessary to lift the glass to the UP/closed position and tape it securely. The last thing you want is the glass sliding down while you are trying to remove the regulator. Think guillotine the sheet metal has sharp edges too so be careful. DCP40935.jpg
This is the door panel in a 1999 E class and may be different than other model years, The 2000 on may have an air bag in the door panel and more fasteners than what is depicted here. DCP40936.jpg
Un screw the lock knob DCP40937.jpg
Gently pry the finish cup from around the door handle. DCP40938.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 10-01-2008 at 07:49 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
The plastic finish cup will pop off quite easily once the first clip comes loose. DCP40939.jpg
Remove the plastic frame for the door latch mechanism, #2 Phillips. screw driver. DCP40940.jpg
Remove the screw at the door latch handle, #2 Phillips screw driver. DCP40941.jpg
Remove the finish plug under the arm rest. DCP40942.jpg
Remove screw in the arm rest, #2 Phillips screw driver. DCP40943.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 04:37 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
The next step is to pop loose the plastic retainers in the lower half of the door. You need to take great care doing this, you don't want broken clips or broken clip mounts. To start gently try to separate the door panel from the door at the bottom, then slip a pry device in-between the door and panel, the trick here is to get the pry device as close to the clip as possible before you apply any force. When you do pry it apart try to do so a little at a time and move to the next closest clip and keep working the pry around the lower half of the door panel till all clips are free. DCP40944.jpg
Two or three times prying around the lower part of the door panel should be enough to free up all the clips. DCP40945.jpg
The door panel will now be hanging on the clips at the window sill. To free it up, lift at the rear, take your time, as it may seem stuck, keep moving up and down, it will come loose. When it is free don't try to move it too far there are wires and cables connected to the panel. DCP40947.jpg
Disconnect the Door latch cable, it just un-hooks. You can disconnect all the wires and move the panel to a safe place. OR DCP40948.jpg
I disconnected the window switch and temporarily taped the panel in the door jam. DCP40949.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 05:18 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
To peel back the plastic, I found that a quick pull had a better result than a slow pull (stretched plastic) you don't have to remove it completely. If it dose tear, use a good quality tape to repair it. DCP40950.jpg
The next step is to drill the rivet heads off, no need to drill them out. All you are after is to remove the head and not enlarge the original hole. I used a 1/4 inch bit in a standard 3/8 drill. There are 4 rivets in my regulator, two in the bottom DCP40952.jpg
One by the regulator motor. DCP40953.jpg
One at the top, by the locking pawl, (the pawl will hold up the regulator up) DCP40954.jpg
Disconnect the wires to the regulator motor. Pinch the top and bottom to get it to release. DCP40955.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 05:37 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
Now you will need a light to look up in the door and see the attachment to the aluminum extrusion on the door glass. In the bottom of the aluminum extrusion is a black plastic lock, remove this. I have a pic of the black plastic lock taken with the window down here, http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ml#post3083298 DCP40956.jpg
In this step you may need a helper to move the door glass (un-tape it hold it and re-tape it) while you lift and unhook the pawl and wiggle the slider out of the aluminum extrusion on the door glass. Once it is free withdraw it from the door. (At this point if you bought a complete regulator you can swap the motor and re-install.) DCP40957.jpg
Here are my broken parts, found in the bottom of the door. Save these parts you need to reuse some of them!!! DCP40958.jpg
This is the replacement part (green only) DCP40959.jpg
Check your cable, mine was off the spool and wrapped around the drive shaft. DCP40960.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 10-01-2008 at 06:21 AM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
To re-spool my cable I had to remove the motor. DCP40961.jpg
The cable back in place, I will leave the motor off so that I can check operation with new slider installed. This is a good time to remove any parts of the mount rivets left on the regulator mounts, just use pliers to grab the back side of the rivets and pull them out. You can see one in this pic to the left they will come out easy. DCP40962.jpg
Time to disassemble the new part (all we need is the green part). DCP40963.jpg
Ahh Break Time....... DCP40584.JPG
Center punched the rivet to drill its head off. DCP40965.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 08:50 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
After this picture was taken I removed the white plastic piece so that I could clamp the rivet in the vise to continue drilling the head off. DCP40966.jpg
Done taking the green slider apart, now we need to take the metal parts off the old slider, they will be reused. DCP40967.jpg
Center punch the old rivet, make sure it is dead center. If you have a drill press it would come in handy in the next step. DCP40968.jpg
***IMPORTANT*** You must drill a 1/8 inch hole dead center in the rivet of the old slider. Great care should be taken to bore the rivet perpendicular and on center. This part will be reused. DCP40969.jpg
Test fit a 1/8 inch Dia X 3/8 reach, steel pop rivet, should be a nice snug fit. DCP40970.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 06:53 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
Here we have removed the rivets head after boring it. The metal piece can be removed from the rivet now. DCP40971.jpg
The green slider requires a little touch up to work. The rivet hole needs to be a bit larger, I found a 9/32 bit will give you an acceptable fit. DCP40972.jpg
Test fit for old rivet in new green slider, and test fit for slider on rail. DCP40973.jpg
Reuse old metal spring cage/insert in new green slider. DCP40985.jpg
Position slider at top or bottom of track and install short cable and spring, then pull long cable and spring to engage it in the slider. Careful! DCP40986.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 07:13 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
OK now its time to put old metal parts on new green slider. DCP40975.jpg
The main big rivet should be flush with the the metal plate. DCP40976.jpg
I had to use a washer to cover the hole in the plate. DCP40977.jpg
Bad pic here, but I used vice grips to hold the big old rivet and plate together as tightly as possible so that I could set the 1/8 steel pop rivet. DCP40978.jpg
Under side view of set rivet. DCP40979.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 07:28 PM.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
Top view of finished slider, good idea to check the operation of the new slider now before the motor is installed. Push and pull it through it's full range, cables and slider should work smoothly. DCP40980.jpg
Park the slider almost at the top of the rail, and install the motor. DCP40981.jpg
Reinstall regulator in the door, engage the white square part of slider in the aluminum extrusion attached to the glass, then hang regulator on the pawl. DCP40982.jpg
Replace the mounting rivets 3/16 steel. DCP40983.jpg
Remove tape from window, connect electric plug to motor, roll down window and install black plastic lock. DCP40984.jpg
Last edited by Yacht Master : 09-30-2008 at 07:54 PM.
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