Hi all. I have a 2001 E320. I want to put a remote start in it due to the fact that I live in the arctic tundra that is North Dakota. I am just wondering if anyone has one in their system, or has installed it themselves. If so, did you use a module for the transponder in the key or did you just key wrap it or...? Regardless if I can find a module or not I will make it work, just wanna see if there is any feedback on it before I go at it. By the way I am installing it myself, and I am a certified mobile installer, so any comments like take it to wherever and have a pro do it are not necessary. If it makes a difference to anyone, the system going in is a Compustar Pro 2-way 900FM. CM4200 brain unit. Thanks in advance.
Vehicle: E-ZGO 53 HP., 99 E 430 sport, 04 E55 AMG, 2008 Tahoe LTZ Sold Porsche to Brother
Location: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado/Panama
Posts: 644
Go for it Nate,
I would love to have remote start too. There have been a few posts that all seem to claim the MB key is the issue. My Chevy Truck has remote start and the range is about 100 yards clear view, and will go thru 4 walls (3 interior and 1 exterior block). Many owners of the newer Benzes love the "Keyless Go" but for me the remote start is far Superior. When I am in Colorado during the winter nothing better than a car warmed up and the inverse holds true in Florida, nice to get the cool off started before jumping in to a 140 degree sauna.
If you can figure it out, I am sure you could sell quite a few. From what I recall the MB key communicates with the ECU in some Mercedes proprietary code and the work around involves leaving the key in the car/starter switch.
well, from what I have read, the actual transponder part of the key is done by RFID, just like pretty much every other transponder out there. So theoretically, I should be able to just wire-wrap one of the keys and it will basically act like an antenna when activated through a relay triggered by the remote start system, so the car thinks they key is in there. I'll give it a shot in a couple weeks, and if it works, provide instructions on what is necessary to do it.
Hi all. I have a 2001 E320. I want to put a remote start in it due to the fact that I live in the arctic tundra that is North Dakota. I am just wondering if anyone has one in their system, or has installed it themselves. If so, did you use a module for the transponder in the key or did you just key wrap it or...? Regardless if I can find a module or not I will make it work, just wanna see if there is any feedback on it before I go at it. By the way I am installing it myself, and I am a certified mobile installer, so any comments like take it to wherever and have a pro do it are not necessary. If it makes a difference to anyone, the system going in is a Compustar Pro 2-way 900FM. CM4200 brain unit. Thanks in advance.
-Nate
Remote start won't work on MBZ. I try over 10 different Stereo shop in different state. Non of them were able to get it to work. Unless there a system out there that they are not aware or
DAS is a redundant system triggered by both RF and IR ,you could wire the Rf but the Ir and the Rf would still be needed to open the doors and with the rolling code system used for the DAS system in order to get the car to start a key would need to be installed in the ignition to generate the code .
I don't see a way to bypass that feature and the steering wheel interlock that is mated to the DAS.And I am a pretty fair study in automotive electronics.Give it a go. The worst that can happen is you over ride the system and since the ecu the tcu and the das are all permanently married to each other and you fry any one of them it gets costly and you need to order the special one time use coded key from Mercedes to mate all the new parts back together again.
All Rf functions are relayed via the controller area network through the electronic ignition system it checks the code generated and if not valid denies entry, once the key is installed in the ignition all Rf features cease to function,thus the other problem you will encounter.
I guess in the Dakotas a key in the ignition is not an issueso the das won't matter........except it is needed to start the car and can't be defeated.,but powering the das via the ir and the comm in the ignition module all the time might get very draining on the battery.
In Europe MB installs a aux heater powered off the fuel line and set on a timer,costs a few grand.
A small ceramic heater wired into a fender mounted socket and timer and ducted into the passenger compartment from the trunk might be the easiest solution to your vexing conundrum.Far cheaper and probably just as efficient as http://www.webasto-us.com/press/en/press_2634.html
at least as long as you have an outlet handy to plug into
ohlord
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"Oh Lord, won't you buy me
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My friends all drive Porsches
I must make amends
Worked hard all my lifetime
no help from my friends
So Lord, won't you buy me
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That's it
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ohlord
Pretty much sum up what the stereo installer told me.
If there a way around it I would have done it already. No installer want to take liability if something would of happen to your car electronic. None of them even going to try to mess with it
DAS is a redundant system triggered by both RF and IR ,you could wire the Rf but the Ir and the Rf would still be needed to open the doors and with the rolling code system used for the DAS system in order to get the car to start a key would need to be installed in the ignition to generate the code .
I don't see a way to bypass that feature and the steering wheel interlock that is mated to the DAS.And I am a pretty fair study in automotive electronics.Give it a go. The worst that can happen is you over ride the system and since the ecu the tcu and the das are all permanently married to each other and you fry any one of them it gets costly and you need to order the special one time use coded key from Mercedes to mate all the new parts back together again.
All Rf functions are relayed via the controller area network through the electronic ignition system it checks the code generated and if not valid denies entry, once the key is installed in the ignition all Rf features cease to function,thus the other problem you will encounter.
I guess in the Dakotas a key in the ignition is not an issueso the das won't matter........except it is needed to start the car and can't be defeated.,but powering the das via the ir and the comm in the ignition module all the time might get very draining on the battery.
In Europe MB installs a aux heater powered off the fuel line and set on a timer,costs a few grand.
A small ceramic heater wired into a fender mounted socket and timer and ducted into the passenger compartment from the trunk might be the easiest solution to your vexing conundrum.Far cheaper and probably just as efficient as http://www.webasto-us.com/press/en/press_2634.html
at least as long as you have an outlet handy to plug into
ohlord
Ok, this is the information that I need. How exactly is the IR part tied into the actual starting system? As far as I can tell, the actual part of the key that is used when starting the car/unlocking the cylinder, etc. is actully RFID. IIRC, even if the battery in your remote dies, you can still put the key in and start your car, you just wont be able to use any other functions. If that is the case, the transponder part can be bypassed with a key wrap to start the car.
On my car (without a transponder), if you lock the car from the outside, you must unlock it from the outside before the engine will start.
I believe that this behavior carried forward. Thus, you cannot start the engine if you have locked your doors.
You may be able to fool the system into thinking that you inserted a key into the driver's door cylinder or trunk cylinder and unlocked it, but of course, this unlocks the rest of your car as well.
I don't know if that might be useful here, but I just replaced the key tumbler on older model that still has blade key. Learned the hard way, that MB has a steering wheel blockade, that once fooled with, will lock without possibility to reset, locking not only the wheel, but also the switch holder and special bolt that holds the blockade on the column.
Even the blockade is pretty easy to cut, you have to pull dash for it.
On my car (without a transponder), if you lock the car from the outside, you must unlock it from the outside before the engine will start.
I believe that this behavior carried forward. Thus, you cannot start the engine if you have locked your doors.
You may be able to fool the system into thinking that you inserted a key into the driver's door cylinder or trunk cylinder and unlocked it, but of course, this unlocks the rest of your car as well.
This should be pretty easy to work around because you can wire the starter system to disarm/unlock the vehicle, start it, and rearm/relock it.