I'm about to DIY the spark plugs and would like to do the wires as well. Two choices are:
Magnecor 8.5mm for $170 shipped
or
Karlyn/STI (OEM) for $173 shipped
Has anyone had any experience with the Magnecor wires? I’d specifically like to know if they are considered an “upgrade” from the (already great) OEM's.
As I understand - resistance, wire materials, interference suppression, etc. are the criteria on which wires are measured but can’t find a clear comparison between the two.
Normally I would just stick with OEM but for $3 difference I figured its worth researching.
Also – I’m approaching 115k…aren’t wires wear items that degrade over time or are our OEM wires just so good that they never need replacing (like our tranny fluid )? I’d much rather take care of the plugs and wires simultaneously.
Some of the guys in the AMG forums have good things to say about Magnecor (search the forums for that name and you'll find several posts). Part of me would probably consider them if I had to replace the wires.
That said, so long as wires aren't abused or otherwise damaged, they really don't have a replacement interval, that's why they are also available separately so just the bad one can be replaced. Hence, all of the cautions about treating them carefully when changing plugs, use a proper tool and don't beat them up and they will treat you well also. If you pull all the coils loose you just leave the wires plugged into them, so you're only disturbing one end.
My last thought on this issue is that the MB wires are very, very, very well designed, so even for three bucks in the end I'd probably stick with stock. Even if Magnecor work well, I'm not sure they have the potential to last as long as the stock MB wires.
Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
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You make alot of sense - I'll be going the safe route w/ OEM then because there is no question about quality/fitment/endurance at all....but that leaves me wondering...what is the proper way to test the wires I have now with over 100k on them? Ohm meter to test resistance + visual inspection? It just doesnt sound right to me that a 100K wire will perform just as well as a new one.
the 17 mm plug offset boot removal tool,do it properly and you will never need new wires.Unless you pull on the boot or set the wires on fire.The oem wires that came with the car last forever.
Mag wires are known misfire providers and people that save their old wires switch back and misfires solved,so why switch.Save your 170 bucks,install the ngk 7090 plugs without anti seize and just remove the boot end from the plug leave the coil end on.Top wire first plug lower wire back plug on each cylinder.Be done with the job.Just don't do it without the 17mm tool.
$32 delivered pm me,phone support provided.
ohlord
Spark plug wires are just conductors, and they are quite short in our W210. To me, unless they are broken, old wires' conductivity cann't be reduced that much with that 10" length. Even if they are maybe old and a little inefficient, they will have no (or very, very little) effect on the firing of the spark plug (or spark jumping across the gap).
So replace them if you'd like but to me it won't change much.
You make alot of sense - I'll be going the safe route w/ OEM then because there is no question about quality/fitment/endurance at all....but that leaves me wondering...what is the proper way to test the wires I have now with over 100k on them? Ohm meter to test resistance + visual inspection? It just doesnt sound right to me that a 100K wire will perform just as well as a new one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyP
Spark plug wires are just conductors, and they are quite short in our W210. To me, unless they are broken, old wires' conductivity can't be reduced that much with that 10" length. Even if they are maybe old and a little inefficient, they will have no (or very, very little) effect on the firing of the spark plug (or spark jumping across the gap).
So replace them if you'd like but to me it won't change much.
I would agree with JeffreyP and respectfully suggest you simply be careful when changing the plugs, if you have one that later acts up you'll know because you'll always get a misfire code, even if you don't "feel it" in the engine. Then you just have to swap wires with an adjacent cylinder to isolate the coil, if the code moves, you know it's the wires. If you really want to spend the money you can, but that money might instead buy almost three Wagner splice 'n fit O2 sensors.
Speaking of which, if you're doing plugs, you've got to be near 100K, which is also the O2 sensor interval...and if you haven't done motor mounts, do them at the same time (if they're not completely collapsed, they soon will be) and change the plugs on the side you're doing the motor mount (then reverse), the extra room is always nice to have. It adds to the time and expense a bit to do all of this at once (MB dealers must LOVE the 100K service!) but then you're set for another 100K. If you divide the time and expense over all those years and miles it isn't much, really.
Ok, Got it. I read the infomration below and thought I'd ask....
Do spark plug wires wear out? You bet. That's because spark plug wires aren't actually made of wire. They're made of delicate carbon fibers. Over time, the carbon breaks down and the fibers separate, causing high electrical resistance. High resistance degrades the spark, resulting in poor combustion, misfires, lousy gas mileage and ultimately a glowing "Check Engine" light. If you let that condition go on too long, the wires can start to leak voltage to nearby engine parts, causing arcing, severe performance problems, and even ignition component failures.
That's why it pays to replace your spark plug wires before they wear out. We recommend changing them during spark plug changes (whenever your owner's manual recommends, or between 60,000 and 100,000 miles). Here, we'll show you which materials and tools you'll need and all the steps required to do a quality job of your own. You'll save about $80 on shop labor charges and ensure that you won't be in for the costly diagnostic fees associated with worn spark plug wires.
I was just wondering if changing the plugs would lead to better fuel economy.
O2 sensors are sitting on my table at home right now. I was going to buy the tool to remove them but the autoparts stores in my area dont seem to keep them in stock. I found one for $15 bucks the other day - looks like the one in the pic below but wasnt sure that it was universal - said 22mm?.
I had the motor mounts done (they were already shot before 100k) now I'm at 115k and "catching up" on maintenance. Now I'm wondering if I should do the tranny mount too but I suppose thats a topic for another thread.
Ok, Got it. I read the information below and thought I'd ask....
Do spark plug wires wear out? You bet. That's because spark plug wires aren't actually made of wire. They're made of delicate carbon fibers. Over time, the carbon breaks down and the fibers separate, causing high electrical resistance. High resistance degrades the spark, resulting in poor combustion, misfires, lousy gas mileage and ultimately a glowing "Check Engine" light. If you let that condition go on too long, the wires can start to leak voltage to nearby engine parts, causing arcing, severe performance problems, and even ignition component failures.
That's why it pays to replace your spark plug wires before they wear out. We recommend changing them during spark plug changes (whenever your owner's manual recommends, or between 60,000 and 100,000 miles). Here, we'll show you which materials and tools you'll need and all the steps required to do a quality job of your own. You'll save about $80 on shop labor charges and ensure that you won't be in for the costly diagnostic fees associated with worn spark plug wires.
I was just wondering if changing the plugs would lead to better fuel economy.
O2 sensors are sitting on my table at home right now. I was going to buy the tool to remove them but the autoparts stores in my area dont seem to keep them in stock. I found one for $15 bucks the other day - looks like the one in the pic below but wasnt sure that it was universal - said 22mm?.
I had the motor mounts done (they were already shot before 100k) now I'm at 115k and "catching up" on maintenance. Now I'm wondering if I should do the tranny mount too but I suppose thats a topic for another thread.
Thanks Guys!
The tranny mount is pretty easy (and inexpensive too). I've never seen a size on an O2 socket, have seen different designs (sort of like an offset crow's foot wrench) but the sockets are almost always easiest, you just have to make sure you don't crimp/crush the wires by pushing down on the socket and unplug the connector so that the wires can turn freely with the socket and sensor. The position 2 sensors (back by the transmission) you don't even need a socket for, but the front ones it's pretty tight. If you have a Harbor Freight near you that's probably the cheapest place, if not you can get it at Sears.
The rest of that sounds like marketing hype designed to sell wires. As I stated in another thread, applying general knowledge to specific circumstances may not always be wise, and the same proves true here. The MB wires are heavily shielded and protected and absent abuse or damage, they last a long, long time. Moreover, there is no "costly diagnostic" required if one fails. You get a specific misfire code. Of course if you don't have a code reader and take the car in, yeah, it's expensive.
That said, it never hurts to ask when you have a question.
By the way - is there a torque value for the O2 sensors? AllData shows 55Nm.
Also -
Lifting the tranny enough to switch out the mounts has me wondering where a lift point might be - the bell housing maybe?
Sorry, reyna, just saw the reply. Motor mounts you raise the engine from the oil pan with a large piece of wood to distribute the weight. The trans mount isn't under nearly that much weight and in fact the bellhousing is way too forward. You can use a floor jack on the tailshaft just fine. Inspect the flex disc while you're there.
)? I’d much rather take care of the plugs and wires simultaneously.
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