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Automatic Climate Control Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Memory

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181K views 172 replies 47 participants last post by  raymond-  
#1 ·
Preparations for DTC readout:

Ignition ON
Temperature selector left "HI", right "LO".
Within 20 seconds, press REST and EC simultaneously for more than 5 seconds
The led in the RECIRCULATE button flashes and the display shows "di R"
Press AUTO repeatedly until all DTC's (refer to DTC table) are displayed. Record each DTC as it is displayed.
Each malfunction (short circuit, open circuit, etc.) has a specific DTC assigned to it.
The letter "E" (Error) is displayed in the left side of the display and the DTC is displayed in the right side of the display. By pressing the right AUTO button, the next DTC stored in memory will be displayed.

To erase: Only possible after all DTC's are read out. Simultaneously press both AUTO > 2 secs. "d" will be displayed in the left side of the display window and "FF" on the right side.
To cancel erase: By pressing AUTO the current faults will appear again.

Set temperature selector to normal setting.
Turn ignition OFF to end test.

DCT table:

B1226 - In-car temperature sensor (B10/4)
B1227 - Outside temperature indicator temperature sensor (B14)
B1228 - Heater core temperature (B10/1)
B1229 - Heater core temperature (B10/1)
B1230 - Evaporator temperature sensor (B10/6)
B1231 - ECT sensor (B11/4)
B1232 - Refrigerant pressure sensor (B12)
B1233 - Refrigerant temperature sensor (B12/1)
B1234 - Sun sensor (B32)
B1235 - Emissions sensor (B31)
B1241 - Refrigerant fill
B1416 - Coolant circulation pump (M13)
B1417 - Duovalve (Y21y1), left
B1418 - Duovalve (Y21y2), right
B1419 - Electromagnetic clutch (A9k1)
B1420 - Idle speed increase
B1421 - Pulse module (N65)
B1422 - Series interface (K1) connection to instrument cluster (A1)
B1423 - Switchover valve block (Y11)
B1424 - Activated charcoal filter actuator (A32m2) open
B1425 - Activated charcoal filter actuator (A32m2) closed
B1432 - Non-USA DTC
B1459 - Series interface (K2) connection to instrument cluster (A1)
B1462 - Wide open throttle (WOT) position signal: diesel engines
 
#7 ·
just ran the A/C diagnostic.. I was able to get the recirculation LED to blink but was not able to get the desplay to show the "di R" (I presume this is to get the computer to read the correct directory). With a blank screen only, i tapped the Right-side AUTO button one time and my displayed showed "E F F" could that possibly mean the whole system is in failure??

I state the system failure issue because, no air blows through any of the vents and it doesn't sound like there are any fan motors operating.

I believe I'm starting at the right place in the threads to get this fixed, am I??
Thanks
TPD
 
#8 ·
Hi TPD welcome. EFF means no error codes. But it sounds like the blower/blower regulator is gone. You do have to remove this unit for jump test. Connect 12V to the motor (not the regulator) if it blows fine, then regulator gone. Of course check the fuses first. God bless and good luck.
 
#16 ·
A possible reason for the high initial fan speed is that the AC control is seeing a very high in car temperature and therefore will adjust the fan accordingly. What is interesting is that you do not have a fault for a faulty in car temp sensor, which like you say is providing faulty temp data-----

The faulty ECT is an issue because the engine management system will default to temps stored in the engine conrol module. My point is that the defaults are not actual and therefore will have long term impacts on gas mileage and your AC control units ability to make quick temp adjustments.

I would clear all the faults and get the ECT changed. Then recheck the faults. Ding How!!
 
#18 · (Edited)
Hi I ran this test today and after looking through the DTC Codes

Eb1 419- Compressor Electromagnetic Clutch(A9k1)
Eb1 424- Activated Charcoal Filter Actuator (A32m2) : OPEN....what does this mean?
Eb1 239- I could not locate.

This is for a 97 E420 Dual Climate zones.

past problems with AC showed...
1. lots of hissing(vacuum leaks?)
2. cool air on pass. side not drivers(Vent far right and middle right vent, cold. No longer does this anymore, all warm)
3. Sometimes the middle vents will work and at others, nada.

I actually did a vacuum and recharge and they said the pressures were still good. After continuing with the service the AC blew cool again, unfortunately maybe a month later it blew warm again...
 
#20 ·
Does anyone on the list know which of the Real-time temperature values displayed on the control unit are C and which are F? I read Steve Brotherton's article which indicated that there are some of each. I get an evaporator temp of 38 on a 45 degree (F) day. If that's an F reading all's OK. If its a C reading then I would assume that the evap. temp. sensor's going or gone bad.

All functions appear normal to me but I've had the car only a month so I'm not sure. I do note that the blower comes on immmediately rather than waiting for water temp to come up as on my 126's.
 
#22 ·
It's very funny, there are times when there is a temp fault generated by the sensor, the AC control unit will know that's not plausible and will go to its stored data and function and I believe that is in C and it wil revert back to the coverted data when the sensor is replaced and working.

FYI I would check your faults, the fan should not come on full blast unless it is very hot in the car. With heat it will gradually come up in speed as the coolant temp increases to at least 40C.
 
#25 ·
Hi All -

I came up with the following DCT codes on my 2002 E320 4Matic after having some issues with the EC button (not turning off except for when the front Defrost setting was used)

B1232 - Refrigerant pressure sensor (B12)
B1234 - Sun sensor (B32)
B1241 - Refrigerant fill


Are any of these easily fixable from a DIY standpoint, or should I leave it to my mechanic?

**note the EC on/off works now after resetting the fault codes.

Thanks!:thumbsup:
 
#26 ·
Post the

sensor values. Not just the errors.
The 2 top just ignore in the face of the low r134a error.
The sun sensor error just ignore in the face of everything.
Yes it is an easy Diy.
 
#27 ·
sensor values. Not just the errors.
The 2 top just ignore in the face of the low r134a error.
The sun sensor error just ignore in the face of everything.
Yes it is an easy Diy.
Apologies for the n00b question here, but I missed the part on how to retrieve the sensor values from the error codes? or is that a completely different process?

thanks!:bowdown:
 
#30 ·
No grave consequences of which I am aware. On several CC threads several people have said to ignore this fault code but I am of the opinion to replace the sensor if it goes bad. As stated previously, if the sun sensor is not working, your CC is not performing as designed.
 
#29 ·
You are correct the IGNORE advice is very poor at the very least. The sun sensor is apart of the AAC that automatically tells the fan speed to increase. If you ignore the fault and do not fix the sun sensor the AAC does not work to design.

Ignoring any fault on these cars just leads to more problems or being mis diagnosed. All faults are important and help to quickly resolve the issue.
 
#34 ·
Please refrain FROM THE Moronic WTFS statements and lack of knowledge postings.
The sun sensor is hardly central to the operation of the CC.
It is the feature most often not even noticed by mb owners.
It has no detrimental affect to ac when faulty or failed.
It slightly boosts fan speed when going from shade into sun etc.

Go back to your WIS and stop being so annoying, it really is getting tiring.
And tell your kids to bring my mirror back:thumbsup:
 
#31 ·
The sun sensor increases the cabin fan speed by about 3% in the presence of high ambient lighting.

I don't know about you, but I can't feel a 3% difference in airflow. And if the air isn't coming fast enough, I can hit the "+" button.

I say forget about it. It's a pain to repair, and is completely unnecessary.